The V10 Project
One of my goals for climbing is to climb a V10 in as many states as possible. In some states (North Dakota or Louisiana) the situation looks grim, and that’s ok, but if there is an overhanging section of solid rock, it seems like the chance are good that there could be some hard climbing. Here is a list of all the places I have climbed V10 in, as well as links to sites or photos where there maybe a V10 in a state that is missing.
God Module V11 HP40, 2006
Alabama has phenomenal bouldering and God Module was high on my life time list. Perfect rock and four perfect moves. James Litz has done this one in his tennis shoes.
Hatcher Pass is a beautiful area in Alasaka that I visited a few years ago. Unfortunately it was raining at the time. Hopefully I will get to head back some time as there are certainly several lines at least V10 here, if not harder. In 2011 I returned and climbed Drive By V10, a classic V10 right off the road. The potential for new and hard lines in Alaska is incredible!
Flagstaff is one of the major areas in the US I haven’t been to and there are loads of hard problems there.
Guide to Priest Draw
Flagstaff Bouldering Blog
This doesn’t look easy.
The Receptionist V10
Cosmic Tricycle V10
The Girl V11
The Egyption V11
Another major area I haven’t been to and after seeing both Dosage 4 and 5 there is clearly enough here to tick a V10. It seems like the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is just one of many areas in the woods of Arkansas.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
The Buttermilker (stand start) V12, 2006
Bishop is low on my list because the rock is so sharp and slick. There was only one climbable problem when I was there due to heavy snow and I made it count.
Bushilot V11, 2002
The first summer I lived in Colorado this was the number one problem. Awesome dihedral/arete.
We spent one day at Bradley in terrible conditions, and I climbed on Busted Shadow a steep power problem, only to find out later that while I started in the currently accepted place, it wasn’t where the FAist started, so I’ll have to return
Bouldering in Delware
Golden Harvest V10, 2006
In 2006 Ang and I went on a three day trip to the South East. This was objective #1 and it is perhaps the best V10 I have ever climbed. I was very psyched to do it in a day.
Perhaps the honeymoon destination?
Jared’s Roof V11, 2008
The final stop of our road trip last spring, this is an amazing roof on perfect incuts in the bucolic hills of southern Idaho.
I spent one day bouldering in So Ill but failed to climb a V10. Beautiful problems and a great scene will make this one a pleasurable stop.
Guide to Southern Illinois
Another obscure area in the Midwest. Although areas like these are not as amazing as say Joe’s or Hueco, they are often surprisingly good for a a few days.
I have climbed in Kansas, at the more well known Rock City, but Timy Fairfield filled me in on this little gem, that could potentially hold a V10. It would be icing on the cake to be the first person to establish a V10 in a new state.
Ghetto Methods V10, 2007
The first stop on my road trip last year. A great power problem on a cliff band put up by Dave Hume. I don’t know of any other areas with hard problems in KY, although there is a lot of rock.
Maine is another state we missed on our New England Tour. Seems like potential for some hard bouldering on the cliffbands of Acadia National Park.
By the looks of this site, Maryland obviously has several problems to choose from. I also visited Rocks State Park a 5 years ago and narrowly missed a V10 there. I was recovering from a finger injury.
Update:Feb 4th, 2010 visited Northwest Branch in Maryland and climbed Prelude to Crimps V11.
Something From Nothing V12
One of the best hard problems I have seen. Perfect rock and a gorgeous line.
My home state!
Years ago I tried a project on a beautiful island off the shore of Lake Superior. Amazing quartizite with blue waves spilling over rocky slabs…in Michigan! Perhaps this has been done, and it was certainly V10.
Climbing in Michigan
Jim Merli climbing The Amatuer V12 or V13 in Northern Minnesota, Sawmill Creek Dome apologies for the poor language at the end.
Tishomingo State Park
Momentum Article on Elephant Rocks
In 2006 we stopped through Montana looking for some good bouldering but we found none. The future of American bouldering could be here, in this huge and mountainous state.
Yankee Jim Guide
Boulder Batholith Website
More about husking corn and less about climbing rocks.
Halcyon V11, 2007
The first hard problem I did in New England. Tall, classic, and one of the best at Pawtuckaway.
New Jersey Bouldering
New Mexico is another western state primed to have an explosion. Lots of V10s around, but new potential in the Northeast corner.
Of course there are a bunch of hard problems in the Gunks, one place we didn’t hit on our tour of New England. Here is a video from Big Up that looks great.
New York Bouldering Video
The rock in Boone looks amazing, and I would love to check it out…someday.
Boone Bouldering Site
things not looking good
Ohio is a black hole for bouldering, but there is some potential in the south of the state.
Oklahoma is a classic out of the way destination. Here is a youtube vid of some of the bouldering there.
One of the four states I have yet to visit!
Pennsylvania looks to have some nice Grit Stone like rock and some strong climbers to develop it.
Pennsylvania Bouldering Blog
Not a very good problem, but I got my Rhode Island tick.
Under the Big Top V11, 2007
Lithic Loafing with an Article on South Carolina
Still a project…
Mood Swings V10 Black Hills 2007
A short traverse. A much better tick would be Homestar 11 or King of Town V12 around the corner. Pathetic, really, but it counts.
Biggie Shorty V10 LRC, 2008
Tennessee has so much amazing bouldering. This is a good intro. If you’re up for it the Shield V12, 100ft away, is one of the most stunning problems out there.
A classic problem, obviously.
Full Service V10
I have climbed several V10s in Utah and just picked this one randomly. Utah is one of the best states for bouldering in America.
The Worm Turns V10
Utah Bouldering Info
I would also recommend purchasing the “Utah Bouldering Guidebook” the “black Bible”
Vermont was way too cold and snowy when we were in New England but Smugglers Notch is the place for the V10 I think. We picked up The New England Bouldering Guidebook by Tim Kemple and that had some fairly up to date info.
Virginia is a tough one. I think there maybe some boulders at the base of Old Rag, but there isn’t a whole lot of info out there.
Leavenworth was a disappointment and we didn’t stay very long. Musashi was a nice problem though. I think there is amazing potential in Washington, however after visiting Switzerland, I am not sure I would go back to this area. Gold Bar, which is on the other side of the pass looks outstanding.
Musashi V10, 2006
Amazing potential although Hawks Nest remains the area. I am not sure if there is a V10 here or not but I would be surpsrised if there wasn’t.
Governers Dodge could hold something, although the Climbing Narc will have to help me out with this one.
Har Mar Superstar V11, 2006
Pretty low and sharp, certainly not the best Wyoming has to offer. The Wind River Range has been explored only mildly and offers an insane amount of potential
So there it is! My quest will continue for a while. I really enjoy having such objective goals to work towards and its a great excuse to travel and see new things.