New Boulders in Joe’s Valley

Since the Black Guidebook came out a few years ago, a ton of outstanding new problems have been done in Joe’s. Here are directions and some photos of some of the new problems that have been climbed in the last few years. Enjoy.
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Left Fork
All milages are from the National Forest Sign.
.18 miles. Just before the Crack Boulder on the right side of the road (which is in the Black Guide) is a small pullout on the left. Cross the river bank to an obvious and large black boulder which faces the road.
Anthony Chertudi did the FA of the arete, which goes at V11, but most importantly there is one of the best and hardest projects I have seen in America. This is the kind of problem that would put Joe’s Valley on the map as a world class desination. It is a 20ft black overhang on perfect pockets. A stunning line. The best climbers in the country should be lining up underneath this one. Truly amazing. There is a picture of Isaac trying this boulder on his excellent blog here

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The majestic project is on the black face peering through the trees, in the center of the photo.

.27 miles. Across the river from “Wood Removal by Permit” Sign is a long black boulder. On the left side is a fairly obvious and short bulge. This is The Skull V11.

.35 miles. A large parking lot on the left. Park here to access Halloween Town, which is upstream about 50yds from the parking lot. The Skeleton Key V11 is up the hill about 7 min and is most notable for the very hard and crimpy sit-start that has ALMOST been climbed by James Litz. From here hike about 50yds up canyon to a massive overhang. Zero V13 climbs out the right side, starting on two small crimps in the black rock and heading right through a mono.

.7 miles. A small pullout on the left. The massive boulder in the river that faces the road is A Wrinkle in Time V11 FA Paul Robinson. There is a project on the left side of the overhang. From here, look back down the canyon towards two massive boulders on the hill. On the down canyon side of the uphill boulder is a long black face. Prince of Thieves climbs from two small crimps.

img_3887 A Wrinkle in Time

img_3888Level Seven, home of Prince of Thieves

1.5 miles. Pullout on the left, just before the 8 Mile sign. This small gulley is home to several problems. Big Crimpin’ V10, Dark Continent V7 and Ghurka Knife V9 are all up the hill in this little cluster. Down towards the river is an obvious and sharp V7 arete which Tim Kemple did a while back.

img_3891 8 Mile Gulley

img_3892 Tim’s Arete V7

Trent’s Mom. Below Trent’s Mom is an obvious and heavily chalked overhang on tan rock that faces the road and can be seen clearly from the parking area. This is Worst Case Scenario V9.


Worst Case Scenario

From the Trent’s Mom parking area, cross the river and head up the obvious drainage. After about 10 min you will come to a cluster of three or four large boulders. Almost directly in the stream is a very nice Harry Robertson problem, The Moment of Truth V10. This faces the road and begins on a perfect flat edge. The first move is a tough one, up to a right hand sloping edge. A couple crimp moves lead to a wonderful and technical mantel.
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Angie Payne on The Moment of Truth V10

Powerline Boulder lies about 100yds down stream at the same level as Trent’s Mom. There is a fairly well worn trail to the boulder, which faces downstream. The Man from The Past V11 climbs the black overhang on the left side of the face, starting on two underclings and making a hard move to a pocket, and then heading out left to the arete. The Mask of God V13 (FA Pete Lowe)does the first three moves and heads right into some hard gastons. The Wind Below, Jason Kehls brilliant line is around the corner, in the middle of the boulder. It starts standing and the first move is a big throw up to jug. From there it climbs straight up the wall. I measured the problem from the lip to the ground at a surprisingly short 20ft 9inches.

img_3673 The Powerline Boulder

Eden Area, which is described in the guidebook. Save Yourself is now most often climbed by heading out left, taking the line of least resistance. This is probably a grade easier than the V9 given in the guidebook. There is also a sit start to Anatomy Act. Brian Capps has the FA of this and gave it V9, although I thought it was probably V10.

To get to The Gentleman’s Project and Blackout, which are on the same boulder, park at The Angler and walk down the road (up river) about 100yds to a small pullout on the left. Across the street is a small cairn. Follow the well worn trail for about 8 minutes up the hill to an obvious overhanging face. There seem to be other moderate problems around as well.

Right Fork
Last year I put up problem called The Afterthought on a square looking boulder about 10 minutes up the hill from the Warm Up boulder, described in the guidebook. A hard project is to the right.

There is a large parking area on the right about .25 miles past No Additives. From here, follow a newly marked trail up an old road grade. When the grade ends after 200yds or so, head up hill to a fairly obvious cluster of boulders. In this cluster lies Playmate of the Year V9, which faces down canyon and very nearby is Battletoads V10, a short but quality arete on perfect black rock.

I will gladly post any more information on problems that people would like to know about.
The Knocking Room, which was near Scary Monsters, broke and is no more.

Area 51
Just past the new parking for Area 51 is an obvious boulder down in the gulley. This boulder has several problems on it, most notably The Ghost King V10 or V11 and the straight up, which seems to be at least V10. Seth Allred did the FA and gave this no name, but it starts on the jug of The Ghost King and climbs straight up the wall. The left arete was also climbed at V8 or so and there is a line of crimps to the right of the left arete which is V6 or so. There is a project in the middle of the face. To the left is a small boulder with a great slab that is V5 or so and climbs a mono.