Matt Wilder attempts the PB project, which Carlo Traversi recently climbed as The Altruist V13, which will sneak into the guide!

Cameron Maier, who has worked on the RMNP trail-crew for a number of years and had lived in Estes Park knew of a project there, and a few weeks ago took the ever-psyched Dave Graham up to check it out. Dave climbed the FA of Memory is Parallax V14, which is one of the best hard problems in Colorado. I was anxious to check it out, and there was word that several other difficult lines had gone in as well.

Saturday I went there with Daniel Woods, Courtney Sanders, and Brian Capps. We made the relatively short approach, and saw a small cluster of boulders, some good problems, some good projects, and got to work.

Daniel and I climbed an awesome traverse put up, I think, by Dave, called The Desperate Houseboys Traverse V10. Daniel climbed it first try, and it took me perhaps 2 hours to piece it together. While not cutting edge, these kinds of contributions go a long way towards cementing Dave’s commitment to find and establish great new problems for the community here in Colorado. Development is rarely done at the highest level (and although important), it’s these quality lower level problems which really make an impact.

Brian did all the moves but couldn’t quite manage the link of The Desperate Houseboys Traverse V10, after a training day.

We also saw a really nice project cleaned up by Dave that could be V12-V14. I would like to try that one on my next visit. We then walked down the hill to try Memory is Parallax V14. I struggled to do anything, but Daniel quickly did all the moves. The problem has some very intricate footwork, and eventually DW sorted it out. By this point the wind had picked up and I wouldn’t be surprised if there were gusts of 50 mph. Snow was in the air, but we were relatively sheltered and Daniel managed the second ascent, in a day. It was a great effort. Here is some fairly raw video of his ascent:

I don’t know much else about the area, except that it was known to several Estes locals for this significant project that was very difficult. If someone has more information about the history of the area I would love to hear it! Estes Park is one of my favorite areas in Colorado, not just for the bouldering in Chaos Canyon, but the scenery, the wildlife and the hiking make it a great place to spend an afternoon.

Here Daniel Woods demonstrates a proper ascent, in the rain no less:

Daniel Woods Climbing God Module in the Rain from DPM CLIMBING on Vimeo.

The Wizard’s Apprentice is unquestionably the most inspiring sport climbing movie I have ever seen. While the movie certainly has its flaws (and I agree with a number of AB’s critiques), I think it should be said that Adam’s commitment to climb those brutally difficult routes in the Frankjura (all of them), then put up that incredible route in Sardina, repeat Golpe de Estado, and repeat those extremely difficult boulders in Ticino is admirable, and I find the movie motivating for three reasons.

First of all, he is so far ahead of every American sport climber that he is single handedly embarrassing all of us, and his talent is on full display. Unfortunately the response from several Americans is to want to mock him (based on the review of the movie and subsequent commentary I’ve read here on Facebook). I agree the swearing and tantrums are annoying, yet he is a character (aren’t we all?), and a thoughtful one at that, and that is something our sport could use more of.

Secondly, I greatly appreciate his openness to talk about grades as they are a very important part of our sport- although not everything. (and it’s clear that Adam doesn’t think so either – the beauty of the routes and problems he is choosing to climb speaks for themselves). Many American sport climbers seem to waffle about grades, yet Adam, only 18, doesn’t hesitate to give an honest, logical and well thought-out opinion- an opinion which is based on experience. I admire his desire to lead.

Finally, I understand what kind of passion can bring someone to drive thousands of miles to climb in the snow, alone, because they are so driven. I have done so myself, hundreds of times, and I appreciate the candidness and sincerity of his passion for climbing. I enjoyed watching him fail, because his motivation to try and try and try again and to relentlessly work harder to see a goal achieved is something I appreciate and can relate to.

Thanks for the review AB, I think the movie could have used some work and like I said I agree with a number of his points, but I also really enjoyed it! Ondra is the best climber in the world, I am confident he will continue to go out of his way to demonstrate that, and I look forward to more movies that document his incredible climbing.

Saturday I checked out Memory is Parallax V14, which is a top notch problem in Estes Park, and I would like to try it at least one day and see if it’s possible before the summer. I also hiked up to an outstanding project in the Flatirons in the afternoon, although I decided that my energy would be spent more efficiently trying other things. It’s a great project though and it will have to remain on the back burner for now.

It’s quiet here in Colorado with many of my usual climbing partners traveling around the country to places like Chattanooga, Hueco, or Bishop.
There are a number of projects I will put time into this spring when the crew returns, although with school and work my time may be somewhat limited. That’s not to say that I am not committed to finding and establishing as many new boulders as I can. There are still a number of good projects in Red Feather which I am looking to try again. At the top of that list is the Swoosh Project, which Dave Graham did all of the moves on last year. I am also psyched on checking out some newer areas near Vedauwoo, WY. As soon as the Devil’s Kitchen opens up I will be heading back to Lander, but that may not be until April or May.

There are two problems that I would like to try to repeat this winter/spring, and those are Midnight Express V14 in Boulder Canyon and Flux for Life V13 in RMNP. Both of these problems are relatively easy for me to access and I think both are of very high quality. These can be weekday projects.

Hopefully all of this will be good training for what is my most important climbing goal of the year, and that is to climb 5.14. I would like to finish off Marylin Monroe 5.13c (unrepeated) in Red Feather Lakes, Tiki Man 5.13c at Mill Creek, UT, and Third Millennium 5.13d at the Monastary, before tackling a harder project.

I am also going to try to make an attempt to visit The Flaming Gorge, to scope the potential for bouldering there as well as The Hoop and The Horn, for routes and boulders. Exciting times for some new rock!

And finally, the most important goal of 2012 is to ace Calculus!

America:
Dominated V13, Yosemite NP
Dominated is a nearly perfect overhang. Simple, powerful and hard. There is a fabulous article in an old climbing magazine about Jerry Moffat doing the FA of the stand, The Dominator. Just a stone’s throw from Midnight Lightning.

Yabo Roof V12, Yosemite NP
In 2003 I visited Yosemite NP with Angie Payne. I was injured and didn’t climb much but I spotted her on her send of the iconic Midnight Lightening, also on my list. We met up with Tommy Caldwell, and after running laps on many of the classics, he took us to an incredible project underneath El Capitan. I was blown away. Tommy had been trying one of the best problems I had ever seen, and it was just off the road. He got close that day, and as I recall I helped figure out a new sequence which he used on the send. Tommy climbed the problem later that year, naming it after the iconic Yosemite climber John “Yabo” Yablonski.

Thriller V10, Yosemite NP
A classic and beautiful problem, with a perfectly flat landing (although rumor has it Ron Kauk, the first ascentionist, may have stacked pallets on the jumble rocks at the base to make the landing more flat, covered them with dirt and no one would know or care.) Many feel this is a better problem than Midnight Lightning.

Midnight Lightning V8, Yosemite NP

Black Lung V13, Joe’s Valley
The classic Ben Moon FA from Joe’s Valley. I’ve tried this one off and on for years and had my fingers in the last hold. Good conditions are imperative. For me the beauty of the line, the quality of the rock, the history and the difficulty all make this very appealing. A great name from Steven Jeffery, I might add. Here is a worthwhile video (although the quality is poor) of the FA.

Trent’s Mom V10, Joe’s Valley *

The Wind Below V7, Joe’s Valley *
This is probably the best V7 in the country. An incredible problem.

Beyond Life V10, Joe’s Valley *
The first trip I took to Joe’s Valley I stumbled upon this beautiful problem. Aesthetics for me are very important and this is one of the most aesthetics walls in the country. The defining feature is the beautiful blue streak which drips down the middle of the black wall.

The Shield V11, Little Rock City
Voted by Urban Climber Magazine as the best problem in America. I disagree (the landing isn’t flat, it’s contrived, I digress) but it is gorgeous and the rock is immaculate. One of the most aesthetic pieces of rock anywhere. Another problem I tried as a project, and Tony Lamiche, the visiting Frenchman did the FA a year later.

Golden Harvest V10, Rocktown *
Golden Harvest stands out as a classic among classics in the perfect boulderfields of the South East. I climbed this problem in a session in 2006 on a quick two day trip to Chattanooga.

Golden Harvest, Rocktown from derek thatcher on Vimeo.

God Module V11, HP40 *
Four perfect moves on perfect Alabama sandstone. Perhaps the most coveted tick in the South East. Climbed in 3 days in 2006. James Litz climbed the problem in his tennis shoes.

Millipede V6, HP40 *
Landslide V9, HP40 *
Bushpilot V11, RMNP *

Nuthin’ But Sunshine V13, RNMP *
This problem, more than any other, motivated my move to Colorado in 2001. I spent 3 years and more than 90 days of effort to climb Nuthin’ But Sunshine. It is probably more important to me personally than any other problem I have ever climbed. It opened my eyes to the possibilities of hard climbing and alpine bouldering. Although there is now an easier heel hook method, I did Dave’s original beta, making the crux move one of the sweetest around.

Whispers of Wisdom V10, RMNP *

Right Side of the Red Wall V4, Flagstaff Mtn.
There is a story in Stone Crusade (the classic John Sherman tome) about Pat Ament climbing this devious problem in penny loafers. For this reason alone I went up one blisteringly cold afternoon 9 years ago and climbed this less than classic line.

Pinch Overhang V5, Horsetooth Reservoir *
One of the most classic and historical problems in all of America. The mantel is every bit as tenuous as advertised, and the pinch is one of the coolest holds around. Although the jumpstart is considered valid, I made a point to pull on and do the move to the lip static, ala Holloway.

“Pinch Overhang” Flash Attempt, FAIL from Thrice on Vimeo.

Sunseeker V13, Mt Evans
Flux for Life V13, Endovalley
Top Notch V13, RMNP
No More Greener Grasses V12, Mt. Evans *
Right Martini V12, Hueco Tanks *
The Shining Path V13, Red Rocks
Wet Dream V12, Red Rocks
Stand and Deliver V11, Red Rocks

Slashface V13, Hueco Tanks *
The first climbing video I ever bought, Free Hueco, finished with Chris Sharma climbing this iconic Fred Nicole line. I still remember sitting in my college dorm in awe and never thinking I would even see the problem, let alone have the chance to climb it. I put a lot of pressure on myself to succeed with this one, and I almost did it on my second day. The stress built greatly on the next two days, after negative progress and I wasn’t sure it would happen. I knew something needed to change, and I took a step back, and remembered how lucky and motivated it made me feel to have come so far. The last thought I had before I stepped on the wall was that there was no place in the world I would rather be, than standing underneath Slashface about to climb it. And I did. For me it was one of my best moments as a climber.

Full Service V10, Hueco Tanks *
Right after I climbed Slashface I walked over and did this, and then finished my day on the Maiden. It’s a rare day to climb three 4 star problems in Hueco Tanks and this was one of my best days ever.

The Feather V11, Hueco Tanks *
Jingus Bells V5, Hueco Tanks *

The Spectre V13, Bishop
I’m not a huge fan of the rock in Bishop, but this one is so pure, so stunning and so proud that it has to make this list. This maybe the problem I’d most like to do on the American list that I have yet to climb.

The Mandala V12, Bishop
The Swarm V13, Bishop

Something from Nothing V12, Great Barrington *
This problem is, in my opinion, one of the best I have ever seen. The rock is nearly perfect, and although it is somewhat short, the directness of the line, the flat landing, the obvious staring hold make it a solid 4 star problem. Much better than expected and I was glad to climb it, before it broke, and in a day.

Satan on a Halfshell V10, Rumney
A beautiful swirling overhang at the bottom of the hill, I tried but failed in 12 degree weather.

Child of the Storm V13, Pawtuckaway

Iron Resolution V13, Joshua Tree

Ghetto Methods V10, Red River Gorge *
A long time ago there was a blurb in a Climbing Mag. about some new bouldering that had been found in the Red River Gorge and this was the hardest problem that had been established at the time. I tried it when I had no business being on it, so it was nice to return years later and dispatch it fairly quickly. I would never recommend the problem for its quality, but I really enjoy visiting obscure places like this and climbing these sorts of things, even if they are cliff band dropoffs.

Bang On V12, Black Mountain

The Ecoterrorist V10, Castle Rock
I’ve been to Castle Rock in California on two separate occasions to try this one, and both times it was pouring rain. This sloping problem was featured in one of the first climbing movies I ever owned “Rampage”, and Chris Sharma has the FA.

Kratos V12, Boone

Brown Recluse V9, Southern Illinois
The sandstone in So Ill is oddly underrated, with the boulders in Chattanooga and Arkansas getting much more press. This impressive problem climbs 18 ft over a flat landing on near perfect rock. I tried but did not succeed on a one day visit in 2006. A beautiful Jason Kehl FA.

Brown Recluse, V10 from So Ill Bouldering on Vimeo.

The Raven V12, Sandstone
Nic Oklubzija has the FA of this gorgeous and unlikely classic from Sandstone, MN. It is claimed by those who have seen it that it could potentially be a 5 star problem. I really hope to get out there someday and give it some effort.

The Receptionist V10, Priest Draw

This is not the full list but most of the important ones are on here. Some problems are not listed for various reasons (access mostly) but it gives you a general idea.

And finally King Air V10, Yosemite

Here is what Daniel had to say about the new problem:

“Yeah it was a cool day… warm in the park actually. I named it Mirror Reality. It has every style of climbing. Sit start leading to a low percentage first move, a dyno in the middle, finishing with a delicate yet powerful lip encounter. The nature of stone is glassy and you have to bend reality to make the low percentage dyno. This is one of my favorite climbs I have done so far in the park. I think it is mid to hard 8B+.”

-Daniel Woods

Daniel’s hardest FA’s in RMNP:

Hypnotized Minds V15 Veritas Boulder unrepeated
Jade V14 Upper Chaos
Aslan V14 Lower Chaos
Mirror Reality V14 Bridge Boulders unrepeated

*Pedestrians are not allowed on the bridge (which spans the Big Thompson River) but those interested in trying the problem can park just beyond the bridge on the east side of the road. Hike up hill 50 yds or so to an obvious cluster of large boulders. The problem faces the town of Estes Park (although the town cannot be seen from the problem) and begins as a sit-start.

For now, there is a link on the right side to Amazon.com. If you have interest in ordering anything (and that means ANYTHING) from Amazon, click through from my site and B3 will get a small percentage of your sale, at no additional cost to you. It is a simple way you can help support my efforts. I have also added a donations button for the more generous readers who are interested in contributing. I also plan on selling the new Colorado Bouldering Guidebook from Sharp End Publishing, in the same way I have sold the Bouldering Guide to Mt. Evans.

Thanks again everyone for contributing to the discussion and making B3 what it is.

“I started this blog as a way to share my climbing experiences here in Boulder, Colorado. I have dedicated much of my life to the pursuit of climbing. I hope that this site inspires, motivates and makes you feel passionate for bouldering the way I do. According to John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, a B3 boulder problem was one of the highest standard, of which there was no equal. I hope my blog continues in that tradition.” -B3bouldering 2007