B3bouldering.com

check out the following video if you havent seen it yet. I havent seen dave in years, but he still seems to be talking at 10000 words P/M..haha

keep it up dude!
Love the blog
http://udini.de/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=117&g2_itemId=16849

jamie, i cant remember if i already told you this lactic acid beta or not.
if i tell you, you have to swear not to tell anyone this secret for a few years atleast.
i have been doing this for the past yr, and my strength is incredible finally.
basically i used to do a “fartlick” style type of training with very little rest, most climbers do this, infact you should only be doing that 1-2 minute rest stuff once a week.

* resting 3-30 minutes inbetween every attempt after warming up
* stretching what is pumped after every attempt (forarms, bending fingers back w/ bent arms pushing fingers backwards against eachother like u r praying in a way to be specific, and stretching your fingers w/ straight arms, against a rock)
it takes **atleast! 3 minutes rest to get ANY lactic acid out of your muscles, rest and rest only removes the lactic acid. you cant forget to stretch what is pumped. you will compete well in that horsetooth hang if u follow this. especially if everyone is all psyched like most comps, w/ 10 seconds rest sometimes.

for flashing, i noticed how you fell on that v9 you did second go, i cant think of the name of the climb right now, you fell because you hadnt warmed up with a short hang with no feet on. warm up w/ no feet for a couple seconds, dont get pumped much at all, stretch, rest,eat an apple/orange for some energy, climb, rest&strestch, climb, rest&stretch, after 30 min the apple or orange will wear out, eat another, climb, rest&stretch, climb rest&stretch, eat a banana or candybar type thing at the end of the day if u are desparate for a send, for high glycemic sugar. then if u dont send wait two days for tendons to rest.

my buddy that knows a lot about physiology taught me most of this stuff.

to put it simple-
1.warm up, and hang once.
2.stretch as much as u can, if u like to stretch before u climb thats cool too.
3.climb
4.REST 3-30 minutes, the more rest, more lactic acid will come out, and stretch what is pumped- your forarms
5. eat apple/orange every 30 min

if you rest more than 30 minutes, just warm up again

Let me know how it goes, and good luck

one more thing, get a watch..3 minutes will come sooner than u think..
you wont be used to it at first, but u will seriously like the benefits..
my buddy mark (whom has sent way harder than me many times) could not do max scene arete before me, he just wasnt resting correctly, i was sharing my secret lactic acid rest with him and he just would flail if he didnt rest atleast 3 min.
when i sent i had done 2 30 minute rests in a row..however, i think 25 min is maximum because it seemed i had to warm up, i sent quickly after a 3 minute rest…

15-20 i would say is very ideal…3-5 minute rests if u r very psyched…0-10 seconds if u fall quickly during an attempt that didnt pump u out at all.

fartlick- once a week only, 1-2 minutes rest..climbing until u feel your muscles have had what they need..there is a feeling they get when u have had enough, always…

ill let u be, u dont have to follow all this, but i hope you do.
I will be climbing (not training) for the next couple yrs w/ this method, i hope to be very good too, and want to compete soon. take it easy Jamie

“finish your pump”
-Michael

campusmang you’re my hero!!! you’ve got the best beta for sheezy muh neezy

Hey Jamie
great send on the holoway problem. Just read that you want to check out g.b. I live there and would be glad to have you camp at my property and give you a tour. There is some amazing rock here with some world class projects.. Something from nothing is on the speed boulder ,not to be missed if doing the northeast.

can u climb today?

im headed out there soon

Hi, I want to comunicate you that I have upload a website dedicated to sport climbing training. It contains training articles, exercises and more
http://www.marvinclimbing.com
I hope you will enjoy it
Thanks

www.kjugekull@blogspot.com Add this link please!……. Go on ,please!

And we forgot the taste of leftover Pizza Hut… the sound of tent poles and Lil Wayne… the softness of the sand on Tommy. We even forgot our own name. Harju.