Gandalf himself leads the way

The Nerf Jug Project climbs out a nice roof on perfect rock and fairly easy climbing to a very hard lockoff/dyno. After ripping some skin on the sharp jug, Herm put a piece of tape over the edge. It certainly softened up the hold, but after peeling off the tape on several missed goes, I just took it off and did the move. I only did the hard move once after a lot of attempts and I would love to get back. Here are some pictures of the crew.

Herm on Black Swan V12

Black Swan climbs several hard crimping moves to a difficult lunge out right and then finishes up a classic highball and perfect rock.

Paul Dusatko on Do Not Name this Problem aka One Armed Scissor V10

Chris Craft on As Hard As They Come V9

Poudre River

Iceland, Poudre Canyon

Collin Horvat sends Ice 9 V10

Later we went to th Gandalf area where it was very cold. None of the problems could be topped out and I didn’t bother putting my shoes on, content with my effort for the day.

Sunday I went to the Poudre Canyon with a huge crew. It was a relaxing day and I had one objective, Small Axe, a classic and tall V8 on the Black Pearl. Ben Scott lead the way, graciously cleaning ice out of the top-out holds. I got warmed up and did it first try on this day from the start. It was great to be finished early and I spent the rest of the day taking photos, while at least 5 others climbed to the top.

Nic Oklubjiza on Small Axe

Nic training for 8B

Jason managed to bump his head, and although it looked painful it seemed somehow appropriate. If you have the chance check out his awesome website of climbing, art and life www.cryptochild.com

Taking my turn

Jason flashing Small Axe

I also added a new problem on Hank’s Boulder called Icognito Speedo and by all accounts this seems to be V10. It starts sitting with a left hand gaston and a poor right hand. The right hand moves to a rounded gaston, left hand bumps to another gaston and then a high left foot and lockoff to a slopey crimp for the left hand. Finish out right. By all means not a classic problem, but another hard section of climbing.

Angela finished the day by climbing Surfing the Tsunami V8

The rest of the day was just pure fun. I climbed a few V9s I hadn’t done before and just enjoyed the company of good friends. It was a wonderful Sunday session.

After 6 months of nonstop bouldering, I have taken the last few weeks to rest. It really feels great and the timing couldn’t be better as the alpine areas continue to get more and more snow. I have gone out a few days to snap some pictures and enjoy the company of friends. Here are some nice shots of two classic Poudre Canyon problems that don’t see nearly enough attention.

Justin Jaeger

Small Axe V8

Clayton Reagan FA

Just down the hills from Small Axe is an outstanding unrepeated Ben Scott FA called The Eye of Sumara. It climbs a very nice nice arete over a workable landing on awesome rock. One of the best problems in the Poudre Canyon and strangely neglected, in my opinion.

The Eye of Sumara V10?

Cameron Cross getting close on the unrepeated Ben Scott testpiece.

Afterwords, I made quick work of Paul Robinsons new problem Public Property V11, which climbs the face to the right of Scarface. The crux revolves around a hard move to a very small crimp and another tough move to a bad pinch. It was getting late and Angela gave me 15 minutes to try and do it. “One more try” I said. Famous last words, but this time it was all I needed. Also congrats to another midwesterner Chris Craft who sent Canopener V10! Psyched on a nice weekend.

Where are the boulders?

I got warmed up and felt very good. I did the final jump a few times and began trying from the start. My first few goes were good but I kept messing up the toe hook. I finally got it to work right and climbed to the end.

I had never felt so good at the end and punched it hard to the lip. I stuck it but I rushed and fell matching. It was disappointing, but I knew I had done a very good link and the send was close. I did the move I had just fallen on, took a nice rest and fired it!

I was very happy to have done such a classic boulder. This is one of those really great experiences in which it seemed at one time totally improbable, if not impossible, and now it had become a reality. I think this is an experience that all climbers have, and it is one of the coolest things about rock climbing. Circadian is a very classic problem, not only for its rock quality and position in the area, but its status as a Colorado winter time testpiece. We heard and saw nothing of the mountain lion.

I have some good video from Chad from the send, and I will try to get it up ASAP. I am waiting on pictures from Ben until I update Sunday’s events.

We awoke today to the shining sun. We heard rumours of 10 inches of snow in the Poudre and our hearts sunk. A few phone calls later and the word was “Rustic is dry!” We packed the truck and bolted north. It was a pleasant 2 hour drive and soon we made it to the boulders. I was ready for another day on Circadian Rhythm.

Conditions were fairly warm but good enough. I had figured out a very important foot switch the last day and was ready to try it out. I felt like I had a good chance to get to the last move, a giant dynamic lunge to the sloping lip. I tried a few times from the start but I seemed to consistantly mess something up, as is often the case with such hard climbing. I decided to wait a bit, take some pictures and reset.

The first move.

Grabbing the intermediate.

Ready to pounce.

After the rest I felt ready to go and on my first attempt I reached out and snagged the intermediate. My hand blew off as I went for the finish, but this was certainly a breakthrough! The next three goes were even better. I grabbed the small, white hold and twice I had my hand over the lip. It was just a little much for me to hold the tension. I feel no frustration. I am motivated, full of psyche and hope. It is right there, so close, just waiting for me to step up and grab it. I cannot wait to try again.

After the session, Angela and I crossed the river and went over to the Bog. She was interested in Castaway, a crimpy, four move V11 put up by Theo Merrin a few years ago. I did the second ascent soon after. This was her third day of climbing on the problem and she did all the moves and was ready to try from the start. In one of her most impressive climbing efforts, she pulled on and fired it! It was nice to see her put it together so quickly. She really attacked the last move and I was very proud of the way she climbed. This was her 5th V11. We got some video, and as soon as I can get it edited, it will be up on the site for your viewing pleasure.

Angie Payne sends Castaway V11

Crimping hard.

Focused and determined.

Daniel Woods doing the proper finish to Canopener Right V11.

This was the first chance I have had almost all year to put a good session in on Circadian Rhythm V13.

This problem has been on my mind for a while. Circadian is a 6 move roof on the Balance Boulder that sits in the middle of the 420 Boulders in the Poudre Canyon. It starts on massive jugs and climbs through a steep wall of polished, flat and incut holds with a big throw at the lip. A truly brilliant boulder. One of the best and hardest in Colorado. Dave Graham did the FA in the fall of 2001. I was psyched but there were alot of people and it was a little frustrating waiting in line.

With the temps cooling it felt right to head back and give Circadian another burn. This time I did the moves quickly. Tyler and Harry were sessioning and both were close. The wind picked up and Ty responded with his best go of the day and the 6th ascent! Good effort.

Ty Landman sends Circadian Rhythm V13

Harry soon followed suit. It was really neat to see such a hard problem get climbed, twice! On several goes I got the cross under but fell lurching out to the intermediate. I can’t believe how much easier it felt today and I shall go to full attack mode to try and finish this boulder before the season gets too warm. I feel like this is the real winter prize and one of the last hard problems in CO I have yet to complete. The day was already a great one but on our way out we stopped by to see Daniel Woods amazingly do all the moves on the project in the narrows that was featured in an earlier post.

Ben Scott attempting the Narrows Project.

I think Daniel thought it would be V14 or 15. Everyone seemed psyched and the future of hard bouldering in CO may be closer than I thought.