B3bouldering.com

Rest Day

Posted on 04. Feb, 2008 by B3.

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Today is a rest day, and a bunch of us are hanging out at Kristoph’s Coffee. Here is a great video someone dug up of a free solo attempt in Squamish, BC.

http://www.downstreammedia.net/TheRangeLife/Video/mattnet.mov

www.momentumvm.com

Posted on 07. Jan, 2008 by B3.

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There are some new videos of Mount Evans on the premium page of Momentumvm. Paul Robinson climbing 2 V12s at Mt. Evans, Child Stars and Clear Blue Skies. Check it out if you have the cash.

With 4 inches of snow on the ground in New Hampshire, Brian and I decided our best bet for today was Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island. Many New Englanders have told us that it is not really worth a visit, however, I was psyched on the history of the area and psyched to try and climb a V10 in Rhode Island. It seemed that Pawtuckaway and Rumney were probably snowed in.
The first area we went to was the Pond Cave, which has many steep, hard lines. We spent the first part of our day there.

Brian Capps sends the Pond Cave Traverse V4

I managed to climb the two V10s (Hueco Nightmares and Gravity Hits) in the roof and finish up with the short but fun Who Needs Hueco V8. I also did a low and long traverse into Gravity Hits called Under the Big Top V11. It was a nice way to start out the day.

Brian was happy to hike up the hill and check out Whitey’s Hard One V9. This problem is mentioned in John Sherman’s Stone Crusade. Its a hard move off of two small crimps. Brian and I both did this quickly as well, and then we both fired the sit-start Corner the Market V10 in a few tries.
Here is a quick video of a couple problems from the Woods.

One final stop was made at Try Again V5. I think this problem is a classic Lincoln Woods testpiece and Brian and I both flashed it. “I kept my foot on”

We had a great day today and it was really fun running around and just enjoying the freedom one has being on the road. It never got above freezing, but we laughed and joked and pulled down hard. An awesome day and while the lines weren’t spectacular and the problems weren’t amazing, today’s stop was worth our time.
For more info, check out Tim Kemple’s Bouldering Guide to New England or http://www.lincolnwoodsbouldering.com

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Stand and Deliver Video

Posted on 05. Dec, 2007 by B3.

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Here is a quick video of our sending on Sunday. Two rest days and tomorrow we head to Lincoln Woods as it is the only dry area in the region. Enjoy!

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Trice

Posted on 15. Nov, 2007 by B3.

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Today I went to Flagstaff to try Trice, an unrepeated problem put up by Jim Holloway. I have been trying Trice for a few days this winter. There is alot of controversy surrounding all of the unrepeated Holloway problems and this one is no exception. After doing as much research as I could, I was under the impression that Trice started on a right hand undercling (as later confirmed when Andy Mann actually called Jim Holloway from Flagstaff) and a left hand sidepull. The climber would then move up right hand to a sloping pocket, left hand to a bad edge and then to the top. In the first couple days, I did all the moves and got psyched to try and really give it a good effort as the weather got colder. Holloway himself called the problem “gross” and “contrived”, but its value lies in its history. 32 years have gone by since Jim first did the problem. Which brings us to today. I did the hard move once and then fired it from the start my second try today. I think that V12 is an appropriate grade, although I would put it on the harder end of the scale. It could get V13 in Hueco as it felt harder than other problems with that grade in Hueco. Anyways, it’s B2+ now and here is the video of my send.

I can’t thank Chip Phillips, Andy Mann and Angela enough for coming up and supporting me through several dark and freezing days.

Update: Check out www.enlightenedchuffer.blogspot.com and climbingbum.blogspot.com for two other perspectives on the evening. Also of interesting note, Mike Feinberg was there on Monday night and came amazingly close to doing it without the high foot by hitting the left hand edge and using his momentum to swing out to the jug. He felt this was easier than the method Carlo and I used.

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The Automator

Posted on 14. Oct, 2007 by B3.

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Long’s Peak

Saturday the forecast was for rain and snow in the afternoon. We hoped to get up to the Park early and beat it. The alarm was set for 7:30AM. I often check the Estes Park webcams as the weather can be quite different from that in Boulder. A low cloud hung over the Front Range but Estes showed blue skies. Off we drove up 36 and the weather got better with each passing mile. The mountains are beautifully dusted with snow and the hills are sprinkled with golden leaves. Fall is here and it is a wonderful time to be a rock climber.

Lake Hiayaha

My objective was to finish off the Automator V13, which I have written much about. Low clouds moved in and hung in the air. I warmed up quickly and gave it a solid burn from the start, falling off the last move. The crux hold felt sticky. I rested for about ten minutes and gave another effort. This time everything was right and I stuck the last hold very well. The rest was over quickly. I am so psyched to finish this problem!!! I really feel this is a true Colorado crimping testpiece. For me, it is important to try and repeat the outstanding established lines in an area, at all grades. For Chaos Canyon this is one of them. Here is the video, uncut, for your enjoyment.

Only about an hour after I sent, the snow came down hard. Everything was soaking wet and we scampered down the hill. The forecast is for 10-18 inches in the Park and this maybe the end of the season.

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Golden Rows of Flows

Posted on 02. Oct, 2007 by B3.

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Here is a quick video of Mike Feinberg on Golden Rows of Flows V10 or V11. First ascent by none other than Dave Graham himself. This problem is near the El Jorges. Very atypical for the Park but nevertheless a nice boulder.

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Skipper Roof Left V11

Posted on 30. Sep, 2007 by B3.

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Mike Feinberg just sent the Skipper Roof Left V11 in Upper Chaos. Dave Graham did the first ascent in 2001. The roof now has three problems, Skipper Right V10, Skipper Left and Next Friday V11.

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Park Video

Posted on 28. Sep, 2007 by B3.

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Here is some quick video from yesterday. The counterparts Secret Splendour V12 and one of my favorite problems Nuthin’ But Sunshine V13. Conditions were amazing and we didn’t get back to the parking lot until 11:48pm! Glad to be back and I am psyched to go rock climbing! Horsetooth Hang this weekend.