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Pure

Posted on 30. Jan, 2009 by B3.

10

Chuck Fryberger has a new video coming out soon and he has just released the trailer. Check it out.

Grotte des Soupir

Posted on 28. Jan, 2009 by B3.

2

In the heart of Cresciano lie a very uniquie 7C+ called Grotte des Soupir. Here Ryan Olson demonstrates the huge moves it takes to climb out this low, but surprisingly fun roof.

Grotte des Soupir 7C+ from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

Saturday I was psyched for a session in Eldorado Canyon but the temperature probably wasn’t much above freezing and the wind was blowing. It’s hard to find decent conditions these days. I joined up with some friends at Morrison it was very pleasant there. I was psyched to try Keepin up with the Jones, a variation to Center Route. Although it has an obvious start and a flat landing, the rock is poor, it is heinously contrived, it doesn’t topout and it is chipped. It’s not hard to give this problem zero stars and thankfully I made quick work of it. With some refined beta Flannery made the FFA. She climbed it two more times for the video. Well done! Check out the video and homage to Jennifer, the dead raccoon. RIP.

Keepin up with the Joneses from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

The weather in Joe’s has been poor and it has been too warm in Hueco for me to head down to try Nagual. Perhaps I will join my friend Brian Capps in Red Rocks?

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Komilator 8A, Chironico

Posted on 24. Jan, 2009 by B3.

2

Untitled from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

Ryan Olson climbs a nice 8A in Chironico, CH

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Entlinge

Posted on 23. Jan, 2009 by B3.

5

Bernd Zangerl has made the second ascent of a Fred Nicole 8C in Switzerland called Entlinge. Franz Widmer quickly made the third. Here is a nice clip of Bernd’s ascent.

Also, James Litz has added a harder finish to Rumble in the Jungle, heading out left where Rumble goes right. It will be interesting to see what he does in Hueco, although the hot temps have prevented me from heading back down there.

Matt Wilder has a great new blog www.mattwilderclimbing.blogspot.com, and a great article on steroid use to go along. Matt recently made the ascents of The Swarm V14 and the Mandala sit start V14 in Bishop, California.

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Serre Moi Forte

Posted on 16. Jan, 2009 by B3.

1

A classic Fred Nicole boulder from Chironico, CH.

Serre Moi Forte V11/12 from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

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Rumble in the Jungle

Posted on 11. Jan, 2009 by B3.

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Here is a video of Rumble in the Jungle, a classic roof in the East Spur. Enjoy.

Rumble in the Jungle V11 from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

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Splinter

Posted on 05. Dec, 2008 by B3.

9

One of my all time favourite climbing shorts is Splinter, which features one of the strongest and most legendary climbers of all time, Malcolm Smith. Malcolm is well known for his brutal training regimes and his unbelievable power. He came on the scene at age 18 when he made the second ascent of Ben Moon’s Hubble 5.14c. This film is a short documentary on perhaps one of the hardest sections of indoor climbing ever done. As the weather has turned poor, I have been climbing at CATS, Boulder’s version of the School trying to get as strong as possible.

Here is what Slackjaw films, the producers of the movie, have to say:

“To put into context how hard this problem is, Malcolm came to the School (Sheffieldâ€™s most hardcore training venue) and despatched a long-standing project in under an hour. This problem has remained unrepeated for over a year, despite the attentions of some of the worldâ€™s strongest boulderers. There are three problems on Malcâ€™s board harder than this, and Hubble Problem with a Start and Finish is the hardest. This makes HPWASAF undoubtedly the hardest wood problem in the country. If you think you fancy your chances, go try the 8b at the School and then add a grade and weep.”

Check out their website, www.slackjaw.co.uk for more on them, and enjoy the film!

Update: As I previously reported, Dave Graham has climbed Boogalagga from a sit start. His new problem is called Big Paw (presumably in honor of Chad’s fallen cat) and he has graded it V15. Well done!