Archive for 'Articles'
Posted on 21. Mar, 2012 by B3.
One issue that hasn’t been discussed here is the issue of climbing on private property. Often times, especially in America, amazing boulders are found on land not accessible to the public. Here in Colorado the classic example is Gross Reservoir. Turn that Frown Upside Down V12 and Singular Objective V11 are two of the best [...]
Posted on 22. Feb, 2010 by B3.
In 1994 Lynn Hill free climbed The Nose on El Capitan in a day, a stunning feat that is clearly one of the greatest achievements in rock climbing history. Not only did she climb the first ascent of one of the hardest routes in America at the time, (it went unrepeated for 10 years and [...]
Posted on 17. Feb, 2010 by B3.
I haven’t devoted much of the writing on this blog to course setting, although for the last 8 years I have been involved in many of major climbing competitions in the US, including the World Cup in 2008 and 2009. All week the conversation among our routesetting crew revolved around a myriad of issues associated [...]
Posted on 24. Nov, 2009 by B3.
When I first moved to Colorado, Mt. Evans was virtually unknown. For almost three years, only a handful of boulderers visited the area and I was lucky enough to be one of them. I was asked to keep the place a secret by the climbers who found it. This put me in a very difficult [...]
Posted on 05. Oct, 2009 by B3.
Part of the appeal of traveling to a place like South Dakota, for me, is that the area is home to several John Gill problems and the existence of a classic unrepeated problem, King of Town. In regards to Gill, for those who don’t know, he basically invented the activity of modern bouldering here in [...]
Posted on 19. Jan, 2009 by B3.
In 2001 Brian Capps was in Squamish bouldering with Matt Wilder. They had scoped out an amazing project known locally as “The Room Project”. They felt that this project had all the attributes of a classic boulder problem: an obvious starting hold, a flat landing, a nice setting, excellent rock quality, an obvious line, and [...]
Posted on 15. Dec, 2008 by B3.
It’s a topic many of us enjoy talking about, and no one ever seems to have an answer. It seems to me that there is no solution, and perhaps thats why we all love to talk about it so much. I think grades, at best, are a great tool to track your personal progress, decide [...]
Posted on 14. Aug, 2008 by B3.
In the last few days I have been working with the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition in an attempt to figure out the best way to deal with the new book. As I understand it, the book is printed and Falcon Press is ready to move forward with getting this pile of mis-information out to the [...]