Archive by Author

Comment on Evil Backwards from Daniel Woods

Posted on 10. Jul, 2011 by .

21

Daniel Woods, the first ascentionist of Evil Backwards, has posted a comment which I think deserves proper attention. Here is what he has to say: I went up to Lincoln Lake today and checked out Evil Backwards. I was shocked with how much larger 2 of the crux holds were. The left hand sidepull that [...]

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Evil Backwards

Posted on 07. Jul, 2011 by .

74

Last year, after much effort, I climbed Evil Backwards V14 at Lincoln Lake. This remains the hardest bit of climbing I have ever done. What has not remained is the climb itself. After I repeated it I expected others to downrate it, perhaps for competitive reasons, or perhaps because they felt that it wasn’t that [...]

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New Boulders

New Boulders

Posted on 06. Jul, 2011 by .

7

Lately I’ve been very busy with the guidebook, but this weekend I did get outside to do some climbing and exploring. My trip to Alaska is less than two weeks away, and my emphasis right now is on developing new problems (which I think is a practice that can be honed), hiking, and good gym [...]

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Steroids

Posted on 30. Jun, 2011 by .

46

In the last few years standards in bouldering have exploded. In 1998 doing the first ascent of a V10 would get your photograph in a magazine, and now it is hardly worth blogging about. Today it seems that perhaps a V15 first ascent will garner some attention but little else. Ascending a V13 gets your [...]

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Guidebook Update

Posted on 29. Jun, 2011 by .

7

Just a quick update, as many of you have had questions about this. When you place the order, it will take a day or two for me to process it. I will send out an email with a link to download the eBook file. Please take the time to read through all of the instructions [...]

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Toothbrushes

Toothbrushes

Posted on 27. Jun, 2011 by .

35

First of all, thanks so much to everyone who has preordered their copies of Bouldering RMNP and Mt. Evans. The free eBook offer is still available. I will be moving the guidebook post up top and to the sidebar below the Buy Now button so that all of the info remains, and I will continue [...]

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The Guidebook-Bouldering Rocky Mountain National Park and Mt. Evans

The Guidebook-Bouldering Rocky Mountain National Park and Mt. Evans

Posted on 22. Jun, 2011 by .

32

After two years of specific work and eleven years of hiking, exploring and bouldering in RMNP and Mt. Evans, the guidebook is complete. The guide covers (in RMNP) Moraine Park, Veritas, Lonestar, Emerald Lake, the Hallett Boulder, Lower and Upper Chaos Canyon, and (in Mt. Evans) Area A and B and Laying in Wait. There [...]

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Slideshow in Ft. Collins

Slideshow in Ft. Collins

Posted on 22. Jun, 2011 by .

3

This Monday Jon Cardwell and I will be presenting a slideshow in Ft. Collins. The show begins at 7:30. Our show will be about the development of new bouldering in Colorado, and after the show Ben Scott and Paul Dusatko will be showing two classic old climbing films, Solutions and Inertia 1. Visit www.nococlimbing.org for [...]

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Wolverineland

Wolverineland

Posted on 20. Jun, 2011 by .

15

Now that Endovalley is far too warm, the development front has shifted to Lincoln Lake. Although Chaos Canyon is far lower in elevation than Lincoln Lake, it is inundated with snow, and many of the most popular problems are still buried. It’s unfortunate because there are many incredible projects still to be climbed in Chaos [...]

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Update

Posted on 14. Jun, 2011 by .

6

Last week the SCS Youth Divisional Championships were at Movement Climbing Fitness and I helped set the event. For me, roped competitions (especially for kids) are the most challenging competitions to set. Jugging up and down the wall is rough on my muscles as well as my hands. It was great training and after a [...]

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