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Momento V16 sees second ascent

Posted on 05. Sep, 2007 by B3.

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Bernhard Schwaiger has made the second ascent of Momento V16, put up several years ago by Bernd Zangerl. Momento is in Silvretta, Austria. The problem climbs out a steep overhang on some crimps with a huge dyno off a terrible hold to finish. It is featured in the movie Momento. Check out the video at [...]

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Congratulations

Posted on 04. Sep, 2007 by B3.

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Ethan Pringle has made the 5th ascent of Realization 5.15a in Ceuse. Very nice effort. Update: Paul Robinson has made the 4th ascent of Ode to the Modern Man V14 at Mt. Evans.

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Wildcat Movie

Posted on 04. Sep, 2007 by B3.

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Start your Tuesday off right with a little send from Saturday. Wildcat V12 Upper Chaos

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Wildcat

Posted on 03. Sep, 2007 by B3.

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Saturday I felt like it was time to get serious about trying hard problems again and my first objective was to go up and finish off Wildcat V12. I had worked out all the moves over several days, always seeming to end up there at the end of the day. This time I wanted to [...]

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Lower Chaos

Posted on 30. Aug, 2007 by B3.

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Yesterday Ange and I went to Lower Chaos after work. We didn’t leave Boulder until about 4pm. The weather looked threatening but we pushed on, all the way up to Tommy’s Arete. The black clouds were thick and swirling. I had just gotten my stuff out when the sky opened up. The hail was pounding [...]

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www.moonclimbing.com

Posted on 28. Aug, 2007 by B3.

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One of my favourite sites on the web is Ben Moon’s www.moonclimbing.com. I have always liked the understated British style of climbing, with the empasis on difficulty, training and stiff grades. I think maybe some of the hardest things in the world are in the U.K. and certainly one of the strongest climbers, John Gaskins. [...]

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Green 45

Posted on 28. Aug, 2007 by B3.

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Sunday I was tired from all the hiking the day before so I got a late start to Upper Chaos. I am just starting to get back into shape and I was psyched for Don’t Get Too Greedy V13 and Wildcat V12. First off was DGTG. I think this is a very classic problem. Possibly [...]

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Exploration

Posted on 26. Aug, 2007 by B3.

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Saturday I went up to Chaos Canyon by myself. I was searching for new problems and my mission was to hike all the way to the end of the canyon. I started up toward Nymph Lake but busted off trail soon after the Bear Lake parking lot. I have previously hiked up Chaos Creek, which [...]

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Jade Sees 3rd Ascent

Posted on 24. Aug, 2007 by B3.

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Paul Robinson has made the third ascent of Jade V15 in RMNP. His ascent comes only a few weeks after Ty’s and a month or so after Daniel Woods. Paul sent the problem in 6 days, which is the same amount of time it took Ty. I predicted last week that Jade may have five [...]

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Climbing Magazine

Posted on 22. Aug, 2007 by B3.

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The newest issue of Climbing Magazine has a page long report on the influence of web media on climbing culture. Check out Page 36 Issue 260 of the “Epics Issue.” I wrote up a paragraph about my thoughts for Bjorn Pohl, news editor of 8a.nu, who used a quote from me in his article. I [...]