Dai Koyamada climbs amazing new project

Dai Koyamada climbs amazing new project

Posted on 09. May, 2015 by in News

A few years ago, I had a chance to give climbing legend Dai Koyamada a tour of some of the hardest and best problems in Colorado. He asked a lot of questions, but so did I. He told me of an incredible new area in the south of Japan that he was very motivated for. The area had some of the best projects he had ever seen. I assume this is the same area he spoke of and he just finished one of the amazing projects (no name or grade yet given). He has a write up (which translates somewhat) and some nice photos of his newest FA. If you take the time to look through his blog, he’s posted a number of photos through the years of this incredible new line. While Asian climbers very rarely get the press in the Western media that they derserve, they have often made amazing contributions to our sport. Well done!
http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/20150510_1951552

4 Responses to “Dai Koyamada climbs amazing new project”

  1. James

    11. May, 2015

    Stunning line. Any problem that has a squeeze cut loose move automatically gets five stars in my opinion, but the line itself look like the icing on the cake.

    Are there any more pictures?

    Would like to see the line in daylight to take in the full problem.

    I like Dai’s general approach and style. He appears to tiptoe that delicate line between being soulful in his filming, without being too cheesy. I also like that he appears to be pretty transparent in his quest for difficulty and open with his subjective assessments on all things climbing. Basically he strikes me as a pretty straight up guy in a similar fashion to Adam Ondra.

    Keep making the films Dai, much appreciated.

  2. B3

    11. May, 2015

    James I posted more photos from 2013 on the my Facebook athlete https://www.facebook.com/b3bouldering

  3. James

    11. May, 2015

    Thank you.

  4. James

    11. May, 2015

    Just to add, it looks like one of those amazing lines where the number per se would be unimportant to some extent. At the same time you hope that it is right at the particular individual’s personal limit to fully experience the whole package, the true nirvana.

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