Wyoming

Wyoming

Posted on 06. May, 2014 by in News

Over the past 4 years my pursuit of new projects has been fairly relentless as those close to me can attest. One place I keep going back to, especially this time of year, is Wyoming. The lonely plains stretch endlessly yet suddenly and without warning they are punctuated by wild and twisted rock formations, many of which are perfect for bouldering.

It’s impossible to talk about new bouldering development in Wyoming without mentioning Davin Bagdonas and Bryan Vansickle. These guys have the fever, and their relentless drive to find, develop, and climb amazing new problems in areas no one has ever been is infectious. Davin and I were reunited after last summers big trip into Bear Valley in the Northern Wind River range. We met in Laramie once more, turned the car north and dashed into a mess of jagged peaks, spires and domes.

Cows, crags, and barbed wire whipped by, again and again. Finally the vehicle rolled to a stop and after a short approach I laid eyes on an incredible new project found recently by Davin himself. The whole rig goes from a sit, and when completed it will be one of best hard roof problems in Wyoming, if not the US. 20+ moves on impossibly solid crimps, edges, and slopers out a massive roof.

IMG_8202 The Multiverse Project a world class 8C roof project

IMG_8211 Some of the holds in the roof

We considered trying a stand start, but as always the call to see more new rock was heeded and we moved on. Antelope scattered as Davin’s truck ripped along the rough roads. We talked of new spots, old spots, and always of the future. We drove past good looking problems at the hope to see more.

The wind is a bad word in Wyoming and this day was no different. It was strong and warm but motivation was high. The truck finally came to a stop again and Wendy and I jumped out. Davin lead the tour and just minutes from the “parking lot” we stopped to scope an incredible new project from Vansickle. Impressive, as was most everything we saw that day. We warmed up further by hiking around, and climbing a sick new V7 from Collin Horvat called Wilford’s Reserve.

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Collin also added a V7 right of Wilford’s Reserve that was not quite as good, but still very worth climbing. Incredibly motivating that these lines were climbed just last week. Wyoming continues to deliver bullet stone and amazing new FAs for the motivated climber.

It was warm, so we continued exploring. I stumbled up at least one excellent new project I would love to clean properly on a future trip. As the temperatures slowly started to cool off, we walked down the hill to another set of huge boulders. Davin, Bryan and I set to work on an arete that will probably be V9 or 10, and I spent some time cleaning a massive black arete on the same boulder. Beautiful undone moderates abound. When confronted with so much perfect new stone, it’s hard to know where to start.

IMG_5673 The Black Arete climbs the right arete at an estimated grade of V12, nothing else has been climbed on the face.

We ended the day with a tour of more, as is always the case when climbing with Davin. I woke up at 5am and left at 6am to get a full day in, and as the sun began to set we were all a bit worked. We all tried to climb something on a new steep wall, but we all failed on our last projects of the day, some of which had been done, some of which had not. I stumbled back to the car, beaten but satisfied with the new knowledge of the day, and motivation for what will someday become sick new boulders.

IMG_5696 Wendy on a beautiful V5.

It was another great session in Wyoming and I look to return soon. The list of projects is long.

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3 Responses to “Wyoming”

  1. chorvat

    06. May, 2014

    Nice post Jamie!

    Hopefully someone capable of climbing the roof project (I believe Davin is referring to it as the Multiverse project) is paying attention cus that one needs to get done!

  2. Brian

    07. May, 2014

    Hey Colin, is that the Bugeleisen project?

  3. Davin

    07. May, 2014

    You look so happy in the first pic. What a roof!

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