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New V14 in Chaos Canyon

Posted on 16. Aug, 2013 by in RMNP

Yesterday Daniel Woods did the FA of The Wheel of Chaos V14 in Upper Upper Chaos. This is a very long and upward rising boulder problem that comes out of a huge cave way up high. It was a very impressive ascent from Daniel with a big crew of some very strong climbers, including Jimmy Webb, Nalle Hukkataival, David Graham and Matty Hong.

I found this overhang in 2003 and worked the end boulder problem for a day in what was climbed as a standstart yesterday at V11. No one seemed motivated to return and with so many boulders closer to the trailhead I focused on other things. Last year Jimmy Webb, Toru Nakajima, Brian Capps and I hiked back up to clean the full line and work on the landing. Before the holds were properly cleaned Jimmy broke off a loose flake, dramatically ripping open his forearm before racing down to the hospital. It was nice that all of the loose holds finally got broken off and cleaned up, and it was great to see Daniel make another outstanding contribution to Colorado bouldering.

A number of the world’s elite also repeated an excellent line to the left put up last year by Collin Horvat called The Wet Rabbit V10, although neither Dave, Nalle or Daniel flashed the line.

There are still tons of amazing new lines to be done, and even yesterday I saw some amazing new boulders I look getting back cleaning and climbing! Great day out with a good crew.

Screen Shot 2013-08-16 at 2.13.13 PM Daniel Woods, FA The Wheel of Chaos V14, Upper Upper Chaos

update: Just so it’s clear, I had previously reported that Daniel had climbed the line in a day. This is not true, as he made the FA in two days. Nalle Hukkataival made the second ascent yesterday.

10 Responses to “New V14 in Chaos Canyon”

  1. anonymous

    17. Aug, 2013

    Nick Duttle flashed Wet Rabbit the same day. If you’re talking about “elites” who did not flash this problem then why not mention who did flash the problem that day?

  2. B3

    17. Aug, 2013

    I didn’t find it note worthy that Nick, who has climbed one V14, and Matty Hong who has climbed V15 and many V14s, both flashed the line. it was more interesting that it gave those other more accomplished climbers trouble. I mean I could ask you the same question, why concerned with Duttle’s flash and not Hong’s?

    If I have not said it before, I will say it now. B3 does not exist to give props to every climber out there. There is a discouraging trend happening (this is by far not the only incident) that if I don’t report on something that somehow it is seen as a diss and people become really upset. I find this particularly ridiculous, although I do appreciate that it seems to come from the fact that people find value my opinion.

    If I do not give props to a certain ascent or climber, noteworthy or not, that does not imply it is unimportant. Nick and Matty are both very talented climbers, and it was great both of them flashed it. Many talented climbers have climbed many difficult things in Colorado and I’ve made no mention of it. In the end, it is my blog and I will write whatever I please to write about. Being mentioned on B3 does not legitimize anyone, nor should not being mentioned discriminate against anyone. If it’s the news you’re interested in, visit Climbingnarc.com. And if you want a blow by blow account of every single problem that was climbed by every single climber every day I go out, you will never find it here. I provide enough free information as is. Apologies if this seems harsh, but I do run B3 for free, and will continue to report on the goings on as I see fit. It is my blog.

  3. Antonio

    17. Aug, 2013

    Well said Jamie.

  4. Calvin

    17. Aug, 2013

    Jamie,

    You come off sounding a little defensive here. There were 2 ways to read the first post – one where it sounds like the poster is challenging you; the other where the poster is simply asking a reasonable question.

    My initial reaction was that your reporting of who did not flash rather than who did was certainly an interesting choice. It could reasonably be construed as a minor diss, although I don’t really care if an elite climber doesn’t flash something they, in theory, should almost always flash. Sh*t happens. It’s too bad our egos get in the way of our climbing. I’m guilty of the same.

    Like your blog. Usually. :)

  5. Sticci dic

    17. Aug, 2013

    I was mentioned on B3 once and it definitely legitimized me and took my climbing career to a new level.

  6. B3

    17. Aug, 2013

    Well, I agree that it would seem defensive given the one comment. However, as I wrote above, this is by far not the only time someone has suggested that because I haven’t posted about someone I am dissing them, or an elitist, or discriminating against a certain group of climbers, and that simply isn’t true. I understand that my words hold some weight, but I’m just one climber in a community of thousands willing to give my opinion in a public forum. I’m not a pro, I just enjoy being involved and contributing.

  7. Michael Rathke

    19. Aug, 2013

    In 2009 Nick Duttle climbed The Automator in 5 tries.

  8. Andrew

    20. Aug, 2013

    Yeah Congrats to Daniel! … Oh my bad we’re supposed to be arguing about how the blog is written… my bad guys.

  9. Anon

    20. Aug, 2013

    Jamie,

    With power comes responsibility. Although, in this case, your logic was sound. It WAS quite more interesting to note that it gave those elite climbers trouble.

    But, the climbing world chose a blogging leader, like it or not. You do hold the power to legitimize, or likewise, diss, climbers. Heavy is the crown.

  10. Michael Rathke

    23. Aug, 2013

    Try to correct a bad attitude by simply having always having a good attitude. If for some reason you falter then a fool will hold it against you so forgive and forget.

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