Posted on 11. Apr, 2013 by in News

Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival has made an ascent of Klem Loskot’s Bugeleisen V14 at Maltatal, Austria. Well done. Bugeleisen climbs a striking, dark shield of rock with small crimps and powerful gastons. Not only is it one of the best hard problems in the world, it has remained arguably unrepeated for almost 13 years (partially due to the fact that it is often wet). The German climber Markus Bock has the second ascent, although some climbers argue that Bock never actually climbed the line.

Here is the uncut footage of Klem making the FA:

Again, I really value watching the uncut footage of Klem and I am very thankful he made the effort to set a camera on the rock and capture a moment, as simple as that may be. It’s also great to see a younger climber (Nalle) pay respects in some ways to the efforts of those that came before him. Bugeleisen was first climbed in 2001. This was one of the first internet videos that inspired my own pursuit of hard climbing, so it’s great to hear it still making news 12 years later. It stands as a testament to Klem’s vision and ability.

8 Responses to “Bugeleisen”

  1. JCM

    12. Apr, 2013

    Do you know what was the source of controversy for Marcus Bock’s possible ascent? Is it a Bernabe Fernandez on Chilam Bilam type controversy (no one saw you do it, and we don’t think you actually climbed it), or a Yuji on Story of Two Worlds type controversy (no, you’re supposed to start with you LEFT hand on that hold, so it doesn’t count the way you did it…)?

  2. Criz

    12. Apr, 2013

    Climb Less

    Send More

  3. Michael Rathke

    12. Apr, 2013

    In reality that doesn’t make any sense Criz

    Think about it

  4. B3

    12. Apr, 2013

    I’ve never met Markus and he seems like a reputable climber. I have heard other climbers express skepticism in person or on the internet (for example this post on UK climbing isn’t flattering http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62806 but this paints a different picture http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D1416
    hard to tell but again seems like Bock is a reputable climber.

  5. Zebdi

    12. Apr, 2013

    @JCM: Wasn’t Yuji, it was Dai Koyamada 😉

  6. Jabroni

    12. Apr, 2013

    The second link paints a different picture? All I see is a guy who spends all his time questioning others’ ascents! Maybe he’s climbed everything he says he has, but you’ve got to wonder if the lad protesteth too much.

    Love the one about the guy claiming a V15 FA and getting it down-graded to V8 though…

  7. Praxeology

    13. Apr, 2013

    Jamie…if you are under the impression that Marcus is a reputable climber and he does not have a history of lying about his accomplishments, then why are you calling this the second ascent an not the third?

    So others climbers express some skepticism and you assume they are being honest and Marcus is not?

    Just curious..

    Is uncut footage the absolute requirement in order to prove an ascent?

    I think that Marcus certainly has or once did have the ability to climb the problem and you may be doing him a disservice by assuming he did not.

    How would you feel if he was you and you were him? Would you be upset?

  8. B3

    14. Apr, 2013

    Praxeology, you’re right! I didn’t think I had written that but I did and I agree, it’s not fair to him, so I’ve changed it. Thanks!

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