Posted on 11. Jan, 2013 by in Front Range

Yesterday I made a quick trip up to Flagstaff with Jon Cardwell and Matty Hong. Just this week Jon made the 3rd ascent of The Game V15 in Boulder Canyon. Not only is Jon an extremely talented boulderer and route climber, I would argue that he is one of the best route setters in the country. I know of no other climber in America who has as much climbing experience climbing hard boulders and routes, and has put the time in screwing plastic onto the wall. His intuition for movement is outstanding, and I’ve learned a lot about setting working with him.

It was a chilly evening up at Cloudshadow but I’m always surprised at how quickly one can leave the bustle of Boulder and start pulling down on rock. I warmed up by climbing The Undercling Traverse V9, a problem I’ve climbed several times but first in 2002. I was interested in giving Epochalypse V13 some effort and worked out the traverse moves into Trice in a few goes. I nearly did the crux move of Trice again, which was motivating and I’m hoping this could be a good, close winter project as the snow in Boulder continues to linger. Jon climbed Trice in a matter of a few tries and nearly did Epochalypse soon after.

Matty Hong bears down on the miserable pocket of Trice V12, FA Jim Holloway

It was a fun session with the boys and it felt motivating to pull on rock again. As much as I’ve cringed at the prospect of bouldering on Flagstaff over the years, as so often is the case, almost anywhere can be fun if there are hard moves and good friends to share them with.

Check out the uncut footage of Jon climbing The Game on The Island. For the most part I generally dislike watching slick footage of people doing moves pieced together after the fact. Although by most accounts the footage of Jon isn’t that great, it does capture a moment, and when it is these moments that define our sport, it’s nice to see that played out and what I’d like to see more of as a consumer of climbing media.

3 Responses to “Flagstaff”

  1. Willy T

    11. Jan, 2013

    Good post. Motivating for sure. I think the vid of Jon is rad, everything usually looks so easy for him it was cool to see him fight a little

  2. Justin

    11. Jan, 2013

    I will definitely agree that Jon is a fantastic route setter. Over the holidays he came back to Albuquerque,NM , for family I’m assuming, since he’s from here, and set numerous boulder problems at Stone Age climbing gym. All of them were a breath of fresh air and fresh movement! Congrat to him for the third ascent of The Game!

  3. climbnskate

    17. Jan, 2013

    I agree that uncut footage is proof of the send but i like cut because you get such a better feel for the problem. Different angles can show the steepness or length of a move. Zooming in on holds shows how bad or unique they are. Uncut just feels like proof you did it instead of showing the problem to the world. I understand it is about credibility if Daniel Woods puts up a cut video of a v14 i wouldn’t question because of his track record but up an comers need that proof for credibility. Is proof more important than making a good clip that showcases the problem.

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