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Wild Basin

Wild Basin

Posted on 01. Oct, 2012 by in News, RMNP

Wild Basin is slowly becoming one of the most popular bouldering destinations in Colorado. The relatively quick approach, short hike, and excellent quality boulder problems make it an appealing destination, particularly as the weather has finally cooled off here in Boulder and the leaves are brilliantly gold.

Today was a quick session but it was a good one. Matty Hong, who is methodically picking his way through some of the hardest problems in Colorado, made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ White Noise V15. Matty, not one to be too hung up on grades, off-handedly suggested it could be V14, but that others can climb it and decide for themselves. I turned the camera on as quickly as I could but missed the first few set up moves. Here is the footage I shot of the ascent:

Matty’s commitment to sport climbing certainly paid off on this long and strenuous problem, which breaks down into a V14 into a V10. Great effort on his part.

I climbed Campari V10, which starts the same but heads up the right arete, to a drop-off jug. It was nice to take a break from so much developing and just repeat some established problems. Collin Horvat also climbed the Campari, and Justin Jaeger climbed the V9 left arete (as did Collin) and we all repeated Ryan Silven’s Real Hero V8, a nice problem in the main area. Ian Dory, who was also there, flashed both aretes. It was a great fall day in the mountains with some quality people.

My focus for the fall is to rebuild a base of harder problems as it has been more than a year since I’ve climbed a problem graded V12 or harder. My fall ticklist is as follows:

Tetris V12, Wild Basin, CO
Mind Matters V12, Guanella Pass, CO
Carefully By Hand V12, Nicky’s Boulders, CO
Double Dutchez V12, Guanella Pass, CO
Never Cry Wolf V13, Devil’s Kitchen, WY
Flux For Life V13, Endovalley, CO
Rodeo Free Europe 5.14a, Wild Iris

I hope this will provide a strong foundation so that I can give a serious effort on Midnight Express V14 when things really cool off.

The aspen at their peak

10 Responses to “Wild Basin”

  1. big poppa chosscrush

    01. Oct, 2012

    very cool to witness this effort in less-than ideal conditions.

  2. Stefan lavender

    01. Oct, 2012

    Hay Jaime, you should check out my new prob on the Brazilian boulder in bear canyon! nicely groomed V11/12? amazing. go do it, hasn’t been repeated yet!

  3. B3

    01. Oct, 2012

    Where is it? Starting holds? I’l go check it out some afternoon.

  4. tic-tac-toe

    02. Oct, 2012

    I gotta say Mr. 3, how does one make a tick list when a new area pops up every day..with alleged high quality classics littering each boulder field?

  5. dsnot

    03. Oct, 2012

    Thing looks like a turd. Nice trav…

  6. Michael Rathke

    04. Oct, 2012

    That top out looks sick!

  7. Mike B

    08. Oct, 2012

    From 8a: “Change is some 55 meters long and starts with a 25 meter first pitch 9a+(b) into a bad rest followed by a 9a extension. At the first anchor, Adam resorted to tying to a safety knot and pulling the rope until the last quickdraw, thus being able to climb the second pitch with minimal rope drag. ”

    surprised that you didn’t catch this one Sheriff…does this mean that Ondra did the worlds hardest aid climb???

  8. Nate

    09. Oct, 2012

    Hate to be the guy to ask, but whats the approach beta for Wild Basin? Left CO for a year and now I don’t know all the latest…I know its outside Allenspark but thats about it.

  9. B3

    09. Oct, 2012

    The bouldering in Wild Basin is pretty spread out and all the boulders are hidden in the trees. I would suggest heading out on a saturday and trying to get a tour from someone, or just exploring the place yourself!

  10. […] first repeat came at the hands of Matty Hong.  The Sheriff was at the scene to capture most of the send on video as well as to add a bit of context to the scene these days in Wild Basin.  Not far behind Hong was […]

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