Oliphants Dawn repeated

Posted on 30. Jul, 2012 by in News

The Island crew is in Rocklands and their tear continues. Dave Graham repeated Golden Shadow V14, and Madiba V13, and Daniel Woods has climbed Golden Shadow and King of Limbs, a V14 from British climber Mickey Page. Perhaps most notably, Nalle Hukkatavial (who also climbed Golden Shadow) has made the second ascent (in ten years) of Oliphants Dawn, originally suggested to be V13 by FAist Fred Nicole. The line had been tried by a number of strong climbers over the years, including Adam Ondra who had this to stay

“It consists of three moves on incredibly small crimps on a 30-degree overhang and after one hour of sessioning I walked away having done none of the moves. And I heard that bunch of people walked away with same result. All my esteem to you, Fred!”

Rocklands seems to be all the rage this year, with climbers from all over the world going there to enjoy the perfect sandstone. Again, Fred Nicole should be commended for being at an area 10 years ahead of the curve. If anyone is really paying attention, they might be curious as to what Fred is up to these days…

And in case you haven’t seen it, I highly recommend the following video of Rocklands. It is of high quality, it is free, and I thought it was worth the watch.

5 Responses to “Oliphants Dawn repeated”

  1. mall

    30. Jul, 2012

    Congrats to Nalle. Just want to note that several other websites are reporting that Fred did not give the problem a specific grade, but said it was somewhere between 8B and 8C.

  2. B3

    30. Jul, 2012

    Interesting. I was told it was V13 in Rocklands. Good info, thanks for sharing!

  3. adam strong

    31. Jul, 2012

    it looks like an elephant!!! so sick. in addition to adam ondra not being able to do the moves, i would like to add that adam strong got pushed up on to the problem once, and could not hang on to the holds. a little history, for the people.

  4. Crimpin' Ain't Easy

    03. Aug, 2012

    Anyone got details on Javier Meng getting the 3rd ascent the following day?


  5. sleazyE

    07. Aug, 2012

    i would like to see more of what fred is up to these days…please?

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