Upper Upper Chaos

Upper Upper Chaos

Posted on 18. Jul, 2012 by in News

Sunday was my one day this weekend to get out and it was great fun with a humble and motivated crew deep in the mountains, where I have bouldered now for 12 years straight. Justin Jaeger, Brian Capps, Theo Merrin, Rylan Marshall, Collin Horvat all marched up to Upper Upper Chaos to try and repeat some of the newly established lines and find, clean, and attempt some more.

Psyche has been high for this dedicated group. Jaeger and Chorvat finished off Lonely Mountain, which seems to be settling at hard V9.
My motivation was to finish Roundhouse, a classic V10 put up recently by Jimmy Webb. I had tried it briefly during a thunderstorm and the holds were a bit damp, but returned to climb it fairly quickly on the second day.

Brian Capps sends Roundhouse V10. While the crux is relatively short, a long V3 follows on somewhat loose rock, hence the chalk bag.

This is an amazing power problem on sick flat edges. Here is video from the send. The problem does topout up and right on easier climbing, but the footage of me climbing to the top was poor so it was omitted.

We moved on to an awesome dihedral dubbed the Da Vince Project by Collin Horvat, who put a substantial effort in cleaning it. We all tried but failed to do the moves.

Chorvat hard at work cleaning a sick new project

I was motivated on finding more projects and there are so many more. I scrubbed at least 4 really quality new lines, including a brief cleaning of a massive hidden cave Jaeger refers to as The Zombie Apocolypse Death Cave Project. I’m not even sure how to properly clean this monstrous line, but it is incredible and I look forward to trying to climb out the belly of this alpine beast.

As Dave so quotably said in Dosage 3 “The pool of projects expands at an ultra-rapid rate” To hike around in Upper Upper is to know that feeling well. The Black Streak Project, The Big Wall Project, The Black Roof Project, The Freshly Squeezed Project, there are so many just waiting. Naming the projects just helps with the organization of how things will get developed, and it’s much easier to refer to the rock by its project name than “its the big roof with the weird rock in the landing up the hill project”, especially when there are so many. This weekend I won’t have time to get out, but I look forward to getting back there as soon as possible with such a great crew!

3 Responses to “Upper Upper Chaos”

  1. Jabroni

    18. Jul, 2012

    Looks amazing jamie. It’s a gift to be able to climb on so much, and such varied rock. Envy!

  2. big poppachosscrush

    18. Jul, 2012


    and yeah, i’m stocking that cave with marmot pens and carrot seeds to survive the bath salts cannibal revolution.

  3. big poppa chosscrush

    18. Jul, 2012

    btw, way to decimate the third move of ’roundhouse’. looked casual in the video. it is explosive and skin-devestating if you do not stick it with authority.

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