Nalle repeats A Simple Knowing

Posted on 16. Jul, 2012 by in News

Nalle Hukkataival and Dave Graham have arrived in South Africa after a very successful trip to Australia. Their first stop was the bouldering at Topside, where a number of hard problems have been established by Paul Robinson in the last few years there. The hardest one, A Simple Knowing, was graded 8C by Paul. Nalle made a quick second ascent and commented this on his tumblr:

I just made the first repeat of Paul Robinson’s V15, A Simple Knowing, at Topside. I managed to climb it quickly in half an hour. It’s a nice problem, but once again nowhere near the difficulty that I consider V15. On a related note, here’s a photo of Livin’ Large which still stands unrepeated after many strong climbers have tried it.

Dave Graham made the third ascent of the Robinson line in two days, calling it 8B+ on his scorecard, saying:

It definitely felt like 8b+, even with the new method.

It’s great that other climber are giving their opinions and going to try what was suggested to be one of the hardest boulders in South Africa. And it’s important to note that whatever the grade, Paul’s willingness to go to a new area and put up new problems is to be commended. Dave and Nalle probably wouldn’t be there if it wasn’t for Paul. It sounds like a number of new lines have gone in, and perhaps Topside will one day have the reputation the Rocklands has. While the scenery looks incredible there, I still haven’t seen any photos that make the place look as good as Rocklands, but it’s hard to tell with out visiting. It’s also hard not to read Nalle’s words as a challenge, and it will be interesting to see if anyone steps up! Livin’ Large remains one of the hardest boulder problems in the world and it’s certainly one of the most impressive.

Here is a pic I took of Nalle trying Livin’ Large when it was a project from my trip to South Africa.

24 Responses to “Nalle repeats A Simple Knowing”

  1. hayden

    16. Jul, 2012

    i love internet beef. pure comedy.

  2. joe

    17. Jul, 2012

    That photo gives a pretty good perspective of how tall that line is. It took me a while to scroll down and finally see Nalle at the bottom of that thing. Wow.

  3. randy

    17. Jul, 2012

    jamie, what on your thoughts on this?

    http://bassforyourface.com/blog/?p=6008

  4. B3

    17. Jul, 2012

    As far as I know the rangers have seen it, are not happy about it, but I’ve heard they’ve said, what’s done is done. Obviously they are not going to close down RMNP. It’s not accurate to compare the Gunks and RMNP, they are managed by two different management systems. It is irresponsible of the climber who did that to do that and I am sure it weaken relations between the rangers and the climbers. I could guess who it is, but I didn’t actually see it done, or know that is was a climber. 99% of the climbers in Colorado treat RMNP with the respect it deserves. Unfortunately there is always a bad apple and I don’t think much can be done to stop them.

  5. jacob

    17. Jul, 2012

    …about the tree trimming…
    well then, why hasn’t somebody fixed it at least. cut those damn stumps flush against the trunk so the fuckin tree doesn’t die. it would take somebody two seconds to trim that up and prevent that poor tree from getting a disease at least.
    no we can’t stop the morons, but we should clean up after them…give me directions to that boulder, i’ll go save that tree.

  6. Andy

    17. Jul, 2012

    Of course it’s not accurate. It’s satire…

  7. Andy

    17. Jul, 2012

    I was referring to the comparison in above comment

  8. Colin

    17. Jul, 2012

    Gotta admit, I find this all pretty entertaining.

  9. chris

    17. Jul, 2012

    Is it obvious that they’re not going to close down rmnp? I sure hope so but I wonder…

  10. JamesO

    17. Jul, 2012

    Surprised to see a post on this topic without including Carlo’s strongly worded response that was posted on 8a.nu:

    “What Nalle fails to mention is that him and Dave (who also climbed the boulder) found a heel toe cam that made the crux move much, much easier compared to the way that Paul climbed it. I’ve tried the boulder using Paul’s method and it is very hard. When significantly downgrading a high-end boulder I think it’s important to point out the use of new beta that the first ascentionist might have missed. By not providing such information, you are falsely representing your level of ability compared to others and you are also going to appear to others as an egotistical asshole. This is unacceptable from a professional in our sport. Nalle’s attitude and actions in regards to this ascent take him down a notch in my book… “

  11. adam strong

    18. Jul, 2012

    i have extra pruning seal. i’ll distribute it to the right people.

  12. Jabroni

    18. Jul, 2012

    Interesting stuff. Nalle is clearly strong, as is Paul, and they clearly don’t like each other, hence comments from Paul about Nalle’s fairly crap looking line ‘Livin Large’ (my paraphrase) and Nalle calling a proposed V15 two grades less.

    Then the couch climbers come back with the obvious:

    ‘Nalle, oh what established V15 has he ever done??’ (ignoring that if you go by Dave’s grade, Nalle climbed a V14 in 30 minutes)

    ‘Paul, he’s just a kid getting some of his own dished back after his pride-driven shit talk of a year ago’ (ignoring that Nalle tends to pick fights, but that could be his Dudesons persona)

    It does surprise me a bit that Nalle doesn’t have more V15s to his credit. But I get the feeling he’s a bit ADD. Jamie, you actually know Nalle, I’ve read comments about him climbing everything really quick, does he often actually spend much time on a line though – or just get bored and go onto something else? Why didn’t he finish up Wheel of Life along with Dave and Ian – boredom or inability? Seems unlikely it would be the second given he can climb 8c/+ in two goes!

    As to Carlo… Carlo is no paragon. After his then girlfriend left him for Chris Webb Parsons, his best response was to go climb one of Chris’ lines, downgrade it, then post a pisstake of Chris online. Classy.

    If this were General Hospital, and it certainly seems like a soap opera sometimes, I’d prefer Nalle to operate on me than Paul.

  13. 2nd

    18. Jul, 2012

    lol. I 2nd that….

  14. m

    18. Jul, 2012

    and the star of that little amusing video from Carlo was PRobinson himself… looks like the ongoing, online bouldering drama is still revolving around some simple truths such as you reap what you sow… and it goes both sides, it seems.

  15. B3

    18. Jul, 2012

    Carlo’s comment doesn’t make much sense. The heel toe was available to Paul, he simply didn’t use it or see it. I don’t think it’s very appropriate of Carlo to call Nalle a bad name because he didn’t reveal that he figured out new beta. If Carlo takes Creatine and doesn’t tell everyone his ascents were fueled by the supplement, is he then misrepresenting his ability, and thus deserving of being called a name? I don’t think so.

  16. Jabroni

    19. Jul, 2012

    And Nalle may well have not known Paul didn’t use that beta. I can’t imagine them texting each other lists of moves after they do each FA…

    ‘oh hi Nalle, just did this great 8C, didn’t use a heel-toe cam though so make sure you keep that in mind!’

    Still interested in the answer to my question. In your view does Nalle not do V15s because he doesn’t spend enough time on them? Or just a notch not strong enough?

  17. m

    19. Jul, 2012

    I guess that if you fail to omit, as Nalle seemed to, that you used a different and maybe easier method, as seems to be the case here, than you don’t give credit to the FAist who may have legitimately felt the problem was indeed 8c. this doesn’t mean it actually is 8c, as finding good beta should be a part of opening new lines. it’s just a matter of respect and giving credit to the climber who first saw the line, put effort into cleaning it and all that…

  18. Eric Zschiesche

    20. Jul, 2012

    Where does this go ? This posturing and conjecturing about numbers……..

  19. Peter Beal

    21. Jul, 2012

    Jamie,
    Just wondering about the creatine mention. Is this hypothetical or what?

    BTW good work by everyone in upper upper!

  20. B3

    21. Jul, 2012

    @ Jabroni Still interested in the answer to my question. In your view does Nalle not do V15s because he doesn’t spend enough time on them? Or just a notch not strong enough?

    I think he is one of the strongest in the world, but is more interested in developing. He is on par with Paul in terms of strength from what I’ve seen, I think he would just prefer to put effort into FAs like Livin Large and things in Australia. I think Dave updates one of his V12s to V14. He is also a phenomenally talented climber, in terms of his athleticism.
    @ Peter I heard that Carlo has taken Creatine, but I don’t know for sure. A number of other climbers have or do take it.

  21. Peter Beal

    21. Jul, 2012

    Thanks Jamie,
    I wondered because of the way you phrased it (“ascents were fueled by the supplement”) and whether climbers are seeing creatine use in that light these days. I think there was a bit of a discussion on this point at B3 a while back.

  22. james hickey

    22. Jul, 2012

    i believe that Nalle was trying to do the wheel of life without the use of knee bars, from the little i have heard, he is not a big fan of knee bar trickery, and tends to try to climb problems with more of a power approach. That is what i believe is the reason for not sending the wheel

  23. Jabroni

    25. Jul, 2012

    Lo and behold, Nalle’s just done another V15 (Golden Shadow) and rated it V14 – first try on second session. So obviously he’s strong enough!

  24. Black Mambo

    11. Aug, 2012

    Could be nice to see PR or DG trying Nalles problems in Finland where he has spent a few months to finnish theme.

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