Daniel Woods makes the FA of Mourning Glory 5.14c/d

Posted on 20. Mar, 2012 by in Clear Creek Canyon

Daniel Woods has made the FA of Mourning Glory 5.14c/d in Clear Creek Canyon. Woods described the route as 5.12b to a V13 boulder problem, followed by a V8 into a V10 out a near horizontal roof. His ascent represents a recent switch he is making to try his hand at some harder routes in Colorado and around the country. Long time local Jimmy Redo (once Daniel’s coach) was there to make the belay. This is probably the hardest route in the Front Range (can anyone think of another?) and is probably also one of the hardest routes in the country. Interesting to see if this one sees any quick repeats. Well done!

15 Responses to “Daniel Woods makes the FA of Mourning Glory 5.14c/d”

  1. Matt

    20. Mar, 2012

    It appears he made a nice write-up of the line on his Facebook. I’m not going to link it because that feels weird and creeperish since I don’t know the guy but go check it out.

    Also, A 12b into a v13 roof into a v8 and v10 finish sounds slightly harder than a 14c, wouldn’t you agree?? haha.

  2. B3

    20. Mar, 2012

    Sounds hard I think too, particularly for a route climber, but time will tell.

  3. JR

    20. Mar, 2012

    I really do think Daniel is being conservative on the grade having climbed on the route and then belaying him. Better to have your route upgraded then down I suppose.

  4. B3

    20. Mar, 2012

    I was alluding to that, but thanks for commenting Jimmy. Daniel is obviously in incredible shape right now.

  5. JamesO

    20. Mar, 2012

    I thought that in theory a long V13 with bolts was supposed to correspond to a 5.14d? A 5.12b into that with a V8 and V10 finish? There is a difference between sandbagging and just having the grade be wrong.

  6. […] it’s not mentioned explicitly in the Facebook update, that initial 7 move boulder problem is apparently V13 leading Woods to offer a suggest grade of 5.14c/d for the […]

  7. Matt

    21. Mar, 2012

    For clarification, I understood it as a 5.12b to a ledge which you can basically walk around on, making it nearly a two pitch climb?

  8. Matt

    21. Mar, 2012

    I think it’s good to be conservative. I’m not complaining about the sandbagging.

    I think it awesome that he was able to crush such a line that looks amazing and on top of that give an honest opinion about a grade (regardless if it’s soft, sandbagged, whatever) in a discipline he may not be as experienced in. As said, time will tell. I just wish time would hurry up and tell us what kind of accomplishment this line really is.

  9. Mark E

    21. Mar, 2012

    Great achievement, no doubt. I’m just having a hard time wrapping my mind around “Clear Creek Canyon, America’s Premier Sport Crag.” It’s up the with the VRG for roadside radness anyway.

  10. CH

    21. Mar, 2012

    Does anyone ever repeat the Ben Moon line Eldorado called, I think, the undertaker? I think it is also a short roof that is quite hard.

  11. Regan

    21. Mar, 2012

    “The first pitch is a 5 bolt 12b leading to a no hands ledge at the base of the roof. At this point you are 250 above the river completely exposed. You are able to look out at the 6 draws dangling from the 50 degree overhanging ceiling, compose your nerves, and set off on the first boulder problem. This problem is 7 moves long using poor incut crimps for your right hand and textured slopers with your left. The finishing move of the problem consists of taking a right hand upside down gaston and jumping left hand to a sideways jug. Once you arrive here, you gather yourself and execute the 2 move v7 crux. At the end of this crux you have a full pad incut rail in which you can rest a bit before tackling the 4 move v9/10 crux at the end. The last move of this problem involves a dyno to the lip of the roof. Here sits a jug hueco in which you can clip the anchor.” – DW

    So the route breaks down as such: 5.12b + No hands ledge (This section irrelevant to the grade) + V13 + shake + V7 + rest + V9/10

    Now of course anyone who hasn’t been on the route can’t really know, but it’s not hard to see that the route cannot be easier than 5.14d (9a) based on that breakdown.

  12. dm

    22. Mar, 2012

    a little more info and pics of the route: http://mountainproject.com/v/mourning-glory/106463658

    the route is certainly not “two pitches” and may have been a typo. This route is pretty isolated as far as CCC routes go, and certainly not “roadside”. You feel waaay out there. The line is unique, and the stone and the holds in the roof are incredible.

  13. mike

    22. Mar, 2012

    never knew of a climbing news post to mention the belayers name….wierd

  14. JR

    23. Mar, 2012

    Daniel’s track record speaks for itself but substantiating an ascent requires a witness I suppose. Not weird at all. Sadly people have been known to lie about ascents which opens a whole nother can o worms. Especially if it is possibly the hardest on the front range. Wait…..who was my belayer? My cousin twice removed from Bulgaria who was visiting for the weekend?

  15. […] B3Bouldering.com […]

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