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Hueco Tanks

Hueco Tanks

Posted on 03. Jan, 2012 by in News

I hadn’t planned on getting back to Hueco for a while, but I did have an unexpected opportunity to go down this past weekend for a few days and so I hopped on board with hopes to get back to The Feather in better conditions. This month the weather has been mostly miserable in Boulder. The lingering snow has kept me in the gym, dreaming about far away places and dry rock. Even a short trip for a few days to Hueco can be all that is needed. These quick trips out of town seem to do wonders for breaking up the monotony of winter here and always recharge me mentally and physically as well. It’s hard not to enjoy soaking up the warm sun of west Texas and the company of good friends Neely Quinn, Seth Lytton, Paige Claassen and Trevor Turmelle. Trevor’s hospitality all week is to be commended.

The first day we went to East Mtn., and with plans for West (and The Feather) the following day, I climbed a few moderates to warm-up. I also made the 3rd ascent of a Sam Davis roof near Man Gum. This is probably in the V9 range, although I thought Bush League (another Davis problem I had climbed earlier in November) was V10, but it is now settling at V8 or V9, so who knows. I repeated Man Gum to warm-up for Sam’s new problem 1st try, and this problem should probably be downgraded to V7. Paige flashed it easily and Neely climbed it not long after.

The second day was back to West. We started off the day by making the trek back up to AKA, an outstanding new problem high above The Bathtub. Trevor gave it some great burns but couldn’t quite get the send.

IMG_0778 Trevor Turmelle working AKA


We then marched across the top of West over to The Feather. With the beta still fresh in my mind from a month ago and the temperature 20 degrees cooler, I reclimbed all the moves rather quickly. Seth and I had a great session on the problem and with 20 minutes left in the tour I climbed to the top. Seth fell off the last move in a last valiant effort. It’s obscure and beautiful classics like this that will keep me returning to Hueco Tanks for years. I stood near the summit of the mountain and watched quietly as the last rays of light stretched across the endless desert.

IMG_0823Hueco Tanks sunset

The next day was a wonderful rest day of horseback riding on a local ranch. While The Feather was certainly nice to finish, this may have been the highlight of the trip for me.

IMG_0847 Dean, our gracious host, and avid Pictionary player.

The last day was really enjoyable, although I didn’t climb one new problem. I did manage to “climb for the cycle”, climbing one problem of every grade, from V0-V10, (and 18 total problems) including a repeat of one of my favorite problems in Hueco, The French Tickler.

IMG_0916 Paige makes a good effort on one of the most impressive lines in the park.

It was a great day out in the boulders and a wonderful, but very short trip. While it’s nice to entertain dreams of staying in Hueco all winter, I am glad to be back and looking forward to starting back to school this spring!


8 Responses to “Hueco Tanks”

  1. TheDanDan

    03. Jan, 2012

    Congrats on The Feather. You may have inspired me to get my ass back to Bishop this weekend . . . 12 hours of night driving for two days of climbing? That’s worth it, right?

  2. Elliott

    03. Jan, 2012


  3. colin

    03. Jan, 2012

    Congrats on the send. And happy new year! Love the blog, keep it up!

  4. B3

    04. Jan, 2012

    thanks guys!

  5. cameron

    04. Jan, 2012

    nice pics dude! will you be going back this month!? you should come kick it w da boys

  6. B3

    04. Jan, 2012

    I doubt it Cam, when are you going?

  7. chunt

    05. Jan, 2012

    What makes you think you got the 3rd on hobbit with a boner? That prob got gang banged last week.

  8. B3

    05. Jan, 2012

    Because Sam walked up to us from the problem right after doing it, there was no one else there, and I climbed it right after Matty Hong. If someone else did it before me (besides Matty) I would be happy to hear about it.

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