Hueco Tanks

Posted on 23. Nov, 2011 by in News

The second half of our trip to Hueco Tanks was unfortunately marred by food poisoning. I threw up no less than 10 times and I didn’t climb the rest of the trip. I had a total of only 2 climbing days. It was frustrating not being able to climb the last days in such a great place, but the trip did renew my motivation for Hueco, and I’m hoping I’ll have a chance to return this winter and send The Feather.
Ryan Sewell was the MVP of the trip, climbing Sunshine V11, Full Monty V12, The Feather V11 and Chablanke V11 in less than ideal conditions.
Jon Cardwell was also stricken with food poisoning. On the last day, however, he warmed up by climbing Mer Diaphane (more commonly referred to as Diaphanous Sea) on North Mountain. Diaphanous Sea was put up by Fred Nicole in the 1990s. At the time it was one of the hardest problems in America. It also had one of the most unique and interesting roof holds in Hueco, a small, finger-tip flake. This was long considered a test piece for V12 roof climbing in Hueco Tanks. A few years ago, the flake ripped off. The subsequent hold crumbled and crumbled, until it is now much bigger than before. This certainly affected the difficulty of Diaphanous Sea, and most likely affected the difficulty of Terremer V15 as well. Jon was curious as to his own perception of the change in difficulty and climbed it with out much of a warm-up, commenting that with the new hold “it feels like V10”. Check out the video:

and here is Ben Moon flashing the old version in 2006

One Response to “Hueco Tanks”

  1. big poppa chosscrush

    23. Nov, 2011

    SO PSYCHED! V10! SAME WITH TECHO Bz! NO, IF ONLY SLASHFACE AND FULL MONTY CAN BE V10 TOO!

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