Hueco Tanks

Hueco Tanks

Posted on 14. Nov, 2011 by in News

The last three days I have been in Hueco Tanks with Mike Moelter, Mark “Cookie” Hobson, Bobby Moelter, Jordon Griffler, Trevor Turmelle, Ryan Sewell and Jon Cardwell, fresh off the Petzl Roctrip in China. It has been a blast running around the boulders and sharing so many laughs and good times.

The weather has been somewhat warm, but motivation has been high and it feels like we’ve all been climbing all day, every day.

The first day we went to East Mountain. I climbed a number of moderate problems, including 10-10 V8, Li stand V7, Dry Dock V7, The Fin V4 and I snuck in a flash ascent of Sledgehammer V9, which is a problem I had never seen before.

IMG_0267Mike Moelter on Sledgehammer

I haven’t been climbing nearly as much as I normally do since I returned from Alaska. Simply getting milage in on so many new boulders felt invigorating and seemed to generate some new motivation.

Worked from the first day, I rested the next day, and hung out with the guys, spotted and took photos. Trevor took us up to a huge roof on West, called AKA. I doubt I’ll have time to put effort into the one, but it’s an impressive problem. Another outstanding problem I have had a chance to try is The Feather.

IMG_0314 The Feather, one of the most impressive features on rock in America.

I’ve had one day on the problem, and it was a good day. I did all the moves quickly and gave some good burns from the start. This is one of the best problems I have ever tried, and I had forgotten how unique and beautiful this one is. Only in Hueco Tanks do such exotic and radical features exist.

IMG_0325 Jon Cardwell on The Feather

Sewell managed an impressive one-day ascent. I’m not sure if we’ll be able to make it back, but it seemed feasible with a good rest and decent conditions. We then moved over to the East Spur, and Sewell made a very quick ascent of Full Monty. Check out the video:

I briefly tried Crown Royale V13, which felt hard in the heat and after our long session on The Feather. I was worked and as the sun set and the rocks came a glow once again with that classic rich light Hueco is so famous for, I quickly worked out and sent a new V10 on East Spur put up by Sam Davis, Bush Leaugue. It’s not the best climbing, but I enjoy steep climbing and it was fun to top out something challenging. Here is the video of my ascent:

Tonight we were all pretty worked, and we shared a great meal. I can’t thank Trevor Turmelle enough for his gracious hospitality and for taking us out everyday. We have two more climbing days.

7 Responses to “Hueco Tanks”

  1. jason

    14. Nov, 2011

    Normally I have no problem with the look of chalk on rock, but man, that picture of the Feather would be so sick without the ugly chalk marks…

  2. big poppa chosscrush

    14. Nov, 2011

    chalk makes me sick too. sick that i’m not out there. sick that folks are breaking the i’m-on-the-offseason-so-NO-ONE-should-be-able-to-climb earth-wide embargo.

  3. ryno

    14. Nov, 2011

    climbing and chalk go hand in hand. tick marks are another story thugh

  4. greasy enchiladas

    15. Nov, 2011

    Track down Belly of the Beast, near Donkey Show boulder. I ran across this last time by chance – guide and I snuck away from our lame group and he said I got something to show you…and there it was. Post some photos of it and I’ll be your best friend. ge

  5. Ovrfiend

    15. Nov, 2011

    Video of Belly of the Beast here:

    Jamie, saw your Crown of Aragorn video on YouTube yesterday. What a beast!

  6. Todd

    17. Nov, 2011

    I’d never seen a shot of the feather like that – Inspiring. Hope you get that!

    ps – You guys coming up next summer? $544 RT on Frontier in June….

  7. Nietzsche

    24. Jan, 2012

    Am I wrong or does Sewell not start at the start in the vid?

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