Alaska-Final Days

Alaska-Final Days

Posted on 03. Aug, 2011 by in News

After Denali we were hoping to get a few more climbing days in before we left. Ander Rockstad, from Fairbanks joined us on Saturday. It was wet and try as we might we could not get the big arete in the Fairangel Gully dried. We did find some other things in the talus that were pretty good, but we climbed them more because they were the only dry things we could find. I did the FA of Bebe Black Bear V8,
and the FA of a nice lip traverse called The Outsider V10. The Outsider was all that was left of what would have been an outstanding V13 roof. After cleaning it on a previous day we climbed the end (The Outsider) and then tried to link the lower moves in the roof. I broke a key hold which made the roof too difficult to climb in the last few days.

IMG_2933Capps on the 2nd ascent of The Outsider V10

There are a number of great projects we tried, found to be doable, but failed to do. Here are just a few:

1. Barstool Project V11 A sick arete with great rock at the base of the Diamond.
2. Fairangel Arete V11 or v12 A gorgeous problem, one of the best we found. I climbed through the crux but the weather wouldn’t cooperate and it remains a project.
3. Muffin Man Project V12 or V13 An awesome pure power problem. Brian did all the moves but one.
4. Muffin Man Traverse V13 or V14 An obvious variation the Muffin Man Project we never even tried.
5. The Seam Project V14 An amazing project high above the tree line in an alpine meadow. We never even had a chance to clean it!
6. The Game Project V12 or V13 Cleaned briefly by myself on a hike but never tried.

IMG_2951Ander and Brian trying to stay dry underneath an unclimbed (and soaking wet) boulder.

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The last day it rained and we hiked around, looked at more new boulders and picked blue berries.

All in all, Alaska was incredible. It was for me the next level of alpine bouldering adventure. The mosquitos were often bad, my shoes were perpetually wet, the threat of grizzly bears was always there, the weather constantly changed, the rock is amazing, the scenery is unparalled and there are hundreds of FAs to be climbed. Will I go back? I can’t wait for next June and I hope to get a month off to have more of this same adventure again.

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8 Responses to “Alaska-Final Days”

  1. justin

    03. Aug, 2011

    Glad you had a rad adventure Jamie, and thanks for the inspiring trip reports.

    One question, did you camp or rent a place while you were there?

  2. Dave Flanagan

    03. Aug, 2011

    Jamie if you like hiking around in the rain looking for new boulders you should come to Ireland.

  3. B3

    03. Aug, 2011

    Camping in Alaska is free almost everywhere, but we rented a place. It’s nice to have a dry bed to sleep in. The cheapest rate we could find was $75 dollars a night. The most expensive thing was the rental car. We couldn’t find a small rental car for less than 1600 for two weeks. It is one of the challenges I hope to tackle next year. Alaska is a bit more expensive than the Lower 48.
    Also, it stayed light until almost 12pm every night, which meant long climbing days.
    And if Ireland has good granite on big boulders like Alaska, then I would happily walk around in the rain!

  4. bigpoppachosscrush

    09. Aug, 2011

    BUSHMEAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  5. gee double

    16. Aug, 2011

    try 88 mile nxt time

  6. B3

    17. Aug, 2011

    Mile 88? What’s is that?

  7. Todd

    17. Aug, 2011

    A chosspile crag about 90 minutes north of Anchorage on the Glenn highway which happens to get remarkably good weather(for alaska) and have remarkably fun pumpy climbing. It’s also called Weiner Lake and Wookie Wall.

  8. […] for the summer.  Jamie Emerson listed a few on his blog from his trip last summer (see here: http://www.b3bouldering.com/2011/08/03/alaska-final-days/) , and I’ve got quite a few more(too many actually), so here’s my top 5 list (in order […]

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