Lincoln Lake

Lincoln Lake

Posted on 20. Jun, 2011 by in News

Now that Endovalley is far too warm, the development front has shifted to Lincoln Lake. Although Chaos Canyon is far lower in elevation than Lincoln Lake, it is inundated with snow, and many of the most popular problems are still buried. It’s unfortunate because there are many incredible projects still to be climbed in Chaos Canyon. Lincoln Lake also has a number of great new lines to be climbed and that is where my interest lies so early in the year.

There have been several notable new problems that have gone in since the road has opened. Jimmy Webb snagged a project Dave Graham had cleaned and tried, called Dismantling the Enemy V12. This problem starts on We Can Build You V14 but heads right and then sneaks out of the overhang. Two obvious linkups have yet to be climbed, starting on Kryptonite V7 and reversing The Overcling Traverse V11 into either Dismantling the Enemy or We Can Build You. Both of these would add a V11 or V12 to the beginning. Jimmy also added a nice line on the Bebe Wolverine Boulder called Guillotine V10. A harder crimp line to the right, cleaned by John Gass, awaits an ascent.

IMG_1500 Ivelin Penchev attempts There is No Was V11.

Before setting Youth Divisionals I took advantage of a snow filled landing and put up two new problems The War of Insects V9 and There is No Was V11. Last week most of my time was spent cleaning several new lines and I did the FA of The Tree of Life V6 or V7, which is a very long sloping lip traverse on the back side of the Bebe Wolverine Boulder. It starts down and right with a mantle and then climbs 20 some moves out of the cave to a sloping and tricky topout. Zack Smith, Justin Jaeger and I put up a great tall slab that is probably V1 I am calling Seafoam, for the bright green lichen, near Freak Attack. Finally, Jaeger added a nice V8 on a boulder adjacent the BBW boulder called Fist Full Of Dollars. It’s surprising how many great new problems are still to be.

261315_10150239336608609_571253608_7137888_4417837_n Justin Jaeger on the FA of Fist Full of Dollars V8

And finally, a word about access.
The rangers have asked the climbers not hike directly down the steep part of the hill to Phobos, but (if parking at the near lot) to hike into the saddle and then around the steep part, taking the fishermans “trail”. Please, as Lincoln Lakes gets attention, be as respectful as possible to the area. Take the time to pick up your trash!

15 Responses to “Lincoln Lake”

  1. Kaelen W

    20. Jun, 2011

    has the crack near Jamie Emerson been done yet?

  2. B3

    20. Jun, 2011

    still uncleaned.

  3. Michael

    20. Jun, 2011

    it will get cleaned this week

  4. sammy d.

    20. Jun, 2011

    there’s a fisherman’s trail?

  5. B3

    20. Jun, 2011

    it’s vague evidence that people have hiked down there before at this point, but it does exist and the rangers have asked that if you park on that side, you should drop into the saddle, and then wrap around the cliff bands, not hiking directly up from the Phobos area.

  6. big poppa chosscrush

    20. Jun, 2011

    with the most notable ascent of the decade being the re-FA of “DEATH RACE 2000”!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    in any event, re: closed projects. it stands to mention that guillotene was ivo’s vision, but shared with others.

    similarly, john g. has shared his crimp line with many others and did not try to ‘close’ it.

    that said, his friends like me can totally close it on his behalf by threatening stabbings if anyone snags it first.


  7. big poppa chosscrush

    20. Jun, 2011

    heard alex m. put up a new rig in the rebellion zone. any details known to the sheriff on dis a one?

  8. Beau

    20. Jun, 2011

    UC’s topo is helping the situation so much..

  9. thog

    20. Jun, 2011

    Any potential that you could write up post on five ten’s new line up? There is a plethora of new down turned shoes in the line up, and I was wondering if you have tried any of them. Opinions on the black wing vs the dragon… quantum???

  10. B3

    21. Jun, 2011

    I have shied away from such promotion in the past, as it was ridiculed the one time I did it. The Black Wings are an awesome bouldering and gym shoe. I think they are slightly less precise than the Dragons, which are always my go to shoe. For me the Dragon is my favorite shoe Five Ten makes. I haven’t tried the Quantum’s yet, but I really like the Green Hornet for more vertical problems. Their edging ability is really good and the toes are powerful.
    I just got a pair of Dirtbags which are awesome for kicking it around town. Super comfortable, stealth rubber and the velcro closure is great.

  11. big poppa chosscrush

    21. Jun, 2011

    i ain’t skeerd: dragons. period. hornets are pretty comfy and fit well, but the HF rubber (on dragons) is unbeatable and consistently stickier than mystique or XS grip2, etc.

  12. big poppa chosscrush

    21. Jun, 2011

    and yes, that comment re: HF is coming from someone who previously said that th HF is not much stickier than XS grip when using a fairly new pair of solutions on and off with an older pair of solutions resoled in HF.

    i had commented that the HF *might* be more sticky.

    i believe the issue was that the re-soled solutions had lost a good amount of their camber and the resole on the left shoe did not yield a good, factory-beveled edge… so it was not a perfect side-by-side test for a 60 degree wall.

    i do feel that a broken-in but new pair of dragons will be one of (if not THE) least likely to slip off a given foothold when compared with other models/rubbers, which is why i sought them out.

    hope that helps.

  13. big poppa chosscrush

    21. Jun, 2011

    and finally, padwan, before i acquired a pair of dragons, i stalked ten 5.10 atheletes on facebook and asked what their honest preference between HF and mystique was. 7 replied and all said HF.

    double finally, laces are always a better long-term and heel hooking option over velcro, which seems to wear out very quickly when put up to the stress of closing up a climbing shoe compared to a pair of orthopedic old people shoes.

  14. michael

    21. Jun, 2011

    Seafoam is the best tune up in a bottle stuff out there, I just put some in the lawn mower because it was sputtering.

  15. wader

    08. Aug, 2011

    JJ quit laying it back and stop fighting it, just put your fingers in the crack.

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