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Update

Posted on 14. Jun, 2011 by in News

Last week the SCS Youth Divisional Championships were at Movement Climbing Fitness and I helped set the event. For me, roped competitions (especially for kids) are the most challenging competitions to set. Jugging up and down the wall is rough on my muscles as well as my hands. It was great training and after a few days of rest I will be looking to get back to the boulders. The competition went well, mostly due to our experienced crew. I haven’t climbed outside in a week, and I am looking forward to getting back soon.

In other news, Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges have repeated a ton of hard problems at Lincoln Lake, Jimmy has made one day ascents of We Can Build You V14, Vanilla Sky V13 (downrated from V14), Death Trout V13 (downrated from V14), Tattooed Teardrops V12 (flashed and downrated from V13) and quick ascent of Evil Backwards V13 (downrated from V14) among several other easier problems. only Evil Backwards was suggested to have changed. I re-climbed the crux move of the latter in a matter of tries and I think the hold has gotten better (I could touch the back of the hold with my finger, something I couldn’t do last year) and it seems that one will settle at V13. This is an impressive list, and their effort is to be commended. It’s also interesting to note that one of the problems that I thought was soft from last year Little House on the Prairie V13, was tried by both climbers and not climbed. It’s nice to see more climbers repeat these amazing lines and give their opinions. Webb and Voges have both established themselves as two of the strongest boulderers in the country climbing today with so many hard repeats around America. Maybe they will take the time to put up some hard problems while they are here, or perhaps bring a V14 to the South, where both climbers are from.

The guidebook, Bouldering Rocky Mountain National Park and Mt. Evans, is nearing completion, and the file has been sent to the printer. We should see a book by the end of the week, make another edit, mostly to insure the photos are light enough and the colors look good, and then we will send in the order! It’s hard to believe that after two years of work I am basically finished. I will have continued updates here on B3 about when and where you can purchase the book, which is being published through Sharp End Publishing. Again, the rangers asked for me specifically not to include Lincoln Lake and I did not. Endovalley is still far from being developed and I am working on a small guide to the area, which will perhaps sell as an addendum.

Finally, I received a copy of An Insightful Guide to Joe’s Valley Bouldering by Isaac Caldiero, which I had a chance to look over. It’s great to have such a much-needed update to the area finally come out. The small size is great for stuffing your pack, the overview color photos I know will be helpful, and there are nice action shots throughout. I would have liked to see an index of all the problems by grade (there is an index of the 3 and 4 star problems) and an index by name. Regardless, it’s worth the money, it’s a nice improvement over the “Black Book” and I hope I have the chance to use it this fall.

6 Responses to “Update”

  1. Beau

    14. Jun, 2011

    you best be givin me duh first copeeeeeee

  2. DT

    14. Jun, 2011

    Perhaps a book, signing, and speaking tour would be appropriate? If you come through Austin, I can assist with your powerpoint. Would also love to see the book, along with other items, sold directly on the B3 website. Reach out, you’ve got my new email address, and let’s catch up.

  3. Nick

    14. Jun, 2011

    Will I be able to snag a guide before I come out to the Front Range at the end of July?

  4. B3

    14. Jun, 2011

    DT good to hear from you, hope you’re well. it has been too long. The guidebook only covers RMNP and Mt Evans Area A and B. It should be out in July.

  5. slabdyno

    15. Jun, 2011

    that little self-pat on your back is VERY interesting.

  6. Jim

    17. Jun, 2011

    *pats slabdyno on the back, what are you so proud about?

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