Lincoln Lake

Lincoln Lake

Posted on 02. Jun, 2011 by in News

Yesterday I marched down the hill to Lincoln Lake for the first time this year. I was taken again by the grandeur of the setting, the amazing problems that were established last year, and the number of projects still waiting to be climbed. Motivation was high and we had a great crew. I checked out a few projects from last year and I warmed up by climbing two great moderates that are potentially FAs. These problems are in the middle of the talus, in between Unshackled and Small Arms. If someone else has climbed these lines, feel free to comment.

The first problem was a nice arete I am calling Bear Cam V6. Here are some photos from the FA:

IMG_1480 The start of Bear Cam V6

IMG_1491

258178_1862271471237_1074450024_31786375_7021966_o Potential FA of Endgame V6 or V7, which is just up the hill from Bear Cam. It begins sitting, matched on a good hold. The first ascent was flashed.

Jon Cardwell and I had a great session on Tattooed Teardrops V13. I did all but one move, and Jon did all the moves. I look forward to getting back to this awesome compression line, which Dave Graham put up last year. It is unrepeated. Later I cleaned up a very interesting roof that was much more climbable due to snow which had filled in the landing. I think this one could be V11 or so, after doing all but one move. Dave Graham was up to his old tricks, working out the moves on a new roof which could be in the V14 range. It was great to be back in that amazing arena once again, but I underestimated the altitude and the hike out. It seems the hill hasn’t gotten shorter or any less steep. Regardless, I am psyched to get my lungs and my legs back into alpine shape. Last year I made it out in 16 minutes from Evil Backwards, anyone up for the challenge?

22 Responses to “Lincoln Lake”

  1. micah

    02. Jun, 2011

    Sick Jamie, thanks for the eye candy. Always nice to hear about the moderates as well, seeing as how I’m a moderate climber. The crimp rail on ‘Endgame’ looks like a sweet feature.

  2. James

    02. Jun, 2011

    No…my lungs would burst, my pulmonary stenosis is proabably part to blame for that….

  3. big poppa chosscrush

    02. Jun, 2011

    so psyched for new moderates! jeayya! look good.

    that first one…. is it right next to lenin or whatever you called that rig with the hard project on it?

    if memory serves, you could do this line and use a good edge to duck under the corner of the other boulder and continue out the traverse from where you chalked.

    is that the one? i ask for location purposes, not to suggest that the duck-under traverse is better…. though it might be. BOOM.

    finally, how heavy was your pack on the 16min deproach? that is a crucial detail for a fair challenge. i bet i could have done 16 minutes unburdened last year, but no way with my normal kit. if you did it with any weight at all, i think that would be a pretty proud record indeed.

  4. Kelly

    02. Jun, 2011

    i will beat you

  5. flipps

    02. Jun, 2011

    will wolvo be in ur guidebook?? also when is that shiz comin out holmes?!?!?!?!

  6. big poppa chosscrush

    02. Jun, 2011

    does the endgame require the direct exit due to natural movement, or choice of the emerbish? i.e. it appears that there is a nice fin to the left. was it easier or just more funnermore to go straigth up rather than make a leftward stab?

    in other news, my shiny leather workshoes officially smell worse than jemerface’s dragons now.

    uggh.

  7. Pat

    03. Jun, 2011

    Endgame seemed to go pretty easily straight out, I doubt it would change the difficulty much at all. Hard move was getting the left hand up to the crimp seam, at least for me. Lip is really solid, and there’s a left hand jug that isn’t visible in the picture.

  8. jamesisabitch

    03. Jun, 2011

    thank god for pulmonary stenosis..

  9. Narc

    03. Jun, 2011

    Hypothetically how long would this hike take for someone carrying a pad who lives at sea level and has mediocre cardiovascular fitness??? Hypothetically.

  10. greasy enchiladas

    03. Jun, 2011

    From down here in Denver it looks like there is a lot more snow up there than these pictures indicate. Do you guys know much snow is still on the ground at Evans A or B?

  11. James

    03. Jun, 2011

    @Jamesisabitch:
    Do you even know what pulmonary stenosis means or what it entails? I was trying to be funny with jamie, no reason to say thank god for me being put on my death bed at 5 days old and being on life support for 6 months and a oxygen tank for a whole year……So THANK GOD for PULMONARY STENOSIS…..climbers these days are changing, there is too much hate in this world now. Stop hating, start sending

  12. big poppa chosscrush

    03. Jun, 2011

    narc: on the steep side: 15 – 25 in; 45 – 1:15 out. far side/less steep: 25 in; 1:00 – 1:45 out.

    greasy: evans a dry up to the crik crossing. then posthole in existing foot holes for a while. some dry patches, some snow. certainly not heinouos anymore. that’s the word, not first hand. b tends to be soupy for some time after a dries out because much of the trail to b is in the drainage zone. keep to a for a while, i’d suggest.

  13. big poppa chosscrush

    03. Jun, 2011

    funny how lincoln opening up makes endo a mere footnote, as expected.

    there’s still better eating for the locust swarm at lincoln. endo may be saved yet. locals rejoice

  14. greasy enchiladas

    03. Jun, 2011

    Gracias big poppa chosscrush.

  15. big poppa chosscrush

    03. Jun, 2011

    narc: those are laden swallow/flatlander estimates.

    for reference, with a big poppa gear kit and bad/horrid knees it took me about 10-15 in and about 30-40 out on my first day of the season this year after a winter of inactivity.

    you look all lanky like a runner. if that is true, you will get out fine. just don’t be stupid about packing. pack light.

    for instance, one dood a few years back complained about hiking into upper chaos with a pad. didn’t take a pad, just a pack. mid day, he pulls out a family size brand new jar of peanut butter, silverware, a full size glass jar of jelly, and an entire loaf of bread. not to mention multiple hooded cotton sweatshirts instead of a single light down jacket, a harness that he had forgotten about, and other unnecessary items.

    dumb and inexcusable in relation to unwillingness to carry a pad.

    dark rock chasms in out of the way sections of the talus were just made to accept potential corpses like these.

  16. big poppa chosscrush

    03. Jun, 2011

    preemptive ps: i’m not talking about rylan. though he takes unnecessary crap, he always carries a pad both directions.

  17. cj

    03. Jun, 2011

    So which came first on endgame, the flash or the tick marks?

  18. Matt

    04. Jun, 2011

    What’s wrong with tick marks? It’s a flash. Not an onsight.

    Bear cam looks sweet. I don’t think that picture makes endgame super aesthetic. At least in my eyes (Anti-style). Probably just have to see it in person.

  19. Narc

    06. Jun, 2011

    Many thanks to BPC for the betas. I may be lanky, but I’m far from fast…

  20. Hayden

    06. Jun, 2011

    is big poppa the new chris bosh? cause i heard big poppa was 15 for 51 from the field too.

  21. big poppa chosscrush

    06. Jun, 2011

    7 for 7 on 7s. in vegas, BIG MONEY, FOO!

  22. Michael

    06. Jun, 2011

    gets the rebound

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