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Posted on 28. May, 2011 by in News

Today Carlo Traversi made the first ascent of the roof project in Endovalley. The weather was blustery and threatening all day but it held off long enough for him to complete the line, after falling off the end yesterday. Dave Graham, who put considerable effort into cleaning the line and figuring out the beta, added a nice V11 or v12 as well. It is possible that other climbers also sent the problem, as Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb and Sam Davis were all close, but as we left, Traversi was the only one to top the problem. Carlo told me he would call it V13, but no word on the name yet. While this is a classic and amazing problem, there are still a number of great projects to be climbed. It’s nice to take a moment and enjoy the achievement of such a great first ascent. I am psyched for Carlo and have made good progress on the line myself, and I am looking forward to putting in more days and trying to finish it before it gets too warm.

Update: The problem is called Flux of Life.

11 Responses to “Endovalley”

  1. Donell

    28. May, 2011

    Nice work Carlo! It was very inspiring to see so many talented climbers in one spot and great to be able to be there when you finished the line.

  2. newdrinkinggame

    28. May, 2011

    Whenver we read a blog or watch a video we gotta drink when we hear/read the words psyched, beta, epic, downgrade…..Try it some time and see if you make it to the crag the new DAY!!!

    SUper Psyched on this killer beta, on this resistance route. It was totally epic but I think I’m goin downgrade.

    Sorry it’s wet in the south so we’re bored

    Congrats Carlo. He’s steppin it up….SO Psyched (shots!)

    All in good fun jamie;)

  3. William

    29. May, 2011

    How does Dave feel about cleaning the line and figuring out the beta and having the masses swoop? Lots of rock out there, seems like it would be frustrating!

  4. Paul Dusatko

    29. May, 2011

    Finally got back to Endo yesterday on Memorial Day weekend. 12 of us total at the crag, not a shit show, the rangers recognize us as a legit user group for the entire park and are actually psyched on the open communication stemming from Jamie’s efforts and his guide book. One of the rangers is a climber who boulders at Endo on a regular basis.
    It’s a small talus field with new boulders. That is it. Endo is not and should not be the center of a “national debate” about access issues. Stop the HYPE and go climbing…’s-v13-colorado-amid-endo-valley-debate

  5. michael

    29. May, 2011

    whats wrong with hype?

    Obviously endo is good enough for debate

  6. jacob

    30. May, 2011

    can you give easy directions to the parking and boulders? the approach sounds nice and easy, i’d like to check the place out.

  7. michael

    30. May, 2011

    “SUper Psyched on this killer beta, on this resistance route. It was totally epic but I think I’m goin downgrade. ”

    You arent rating anything

    The line you are talking about was found in 2002 by a guy named Aaron and dynoing out right to the ledge is not considered the Resistance. The lind Air On is dubbed Resisting, The Resistance finishes out left on gastons then goes into what used to be a muddy jug haul. The climb might need another hose sprayed to it this year, last year I shovelled a foot of dirt away from the edge of the cliff. Setting up a top rope for the climb is now safe and we can use the new chains that were put in for Ludwigs Dude. Using one of the tree’s as a guide for the webbing, the anchors can be dropped directly where they should be for either line of moves.

  8. Paul Dusatko

    30. May, 2011

    Actually, I found this area last year and sent this problem. Not to take anything away from Carlo’s ascent. Props to him for grabbing the second ascent after me.

  9. eric

    01. Jun, 2011

    Paul, what is the name and grade you gave the problem? Just curious?

  10. michael

    01. Jun, 2011

    Thank you for calling him out eric

  11. C

    22. Jul, 2012

    Hey this is kind of off topic but I was just wondering who made the FA of The Portal Sit Start and does it still stand at the grade of V10. Just wondering becasue Ive only seen one video ( Carlo flashing it) and I just wanted to know since Ive recently started working it. Thanks

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