Endo Valley

Posted on 11. May, 2011 by in News

A few weeks ago Dave Graham, Jon Cardwell, and Diego Lopez Montull were driving in RMNP and decided to take a look for some new rock. They took a new way into the Park, and stumbled upon a nice collection of large granite boulders, tucked away in the pines. An imposing and complex polished cliff loomed over head. This small and unique sector was about to become the newest addition to a long line of great areas in RMNP.

Paul Otis, (who found the area) Jim Belcer, Bryce Klinikowski, Jon Linhart and others developed a few problems at this cluster in 2005. One of the highlights included Jim Belcer’s Danger Zone V7. Not much had been done there recently and our crew got to work immediately. I have now been there 4 days, and every day we walk around looking for new lines, cleaning off potential lines, and trying all manner of new boulders.

There are a number of outstanding projects and new problems:

The first and most significant is the big roof. This is an excellent line that could be potentially 4 stars. It is one of the best problems in Colorado and probably weighs in around V14. All the moves have been done. I would love to put a serious effort into this incredible line this year.

IMG_1213 Dave tries the amazing roof project.

Sunday Ian Dory made the FA of Cambrian Explosion V10, an excellent power problem just left of the roof. A hard undercling move leads to the sloping finish of Ol’ Boy’s Club V7 FA Chad Greedy. I nearly got the FA of Cambrian Explosion and did the second ascent not long after Dory’s FA. The line was then repeated by Brian Capps, Dave Graham and Jeff Sillcox. Ian seems to be stepping up his developing game, as he has cleaned a number of new lines and climbed several moderately difficult problems. This winter Ian made an ascent of Esperanza V14 in Hueco Tanks.

IMG_1221Brian Capps sends Cambrian Explosion V10. In this position, he is two hand moves into the problem, which starts matched on right facing crimp edge. The first move is to a good gaston for the right hand.

Today Ian also added a new line right of the big roof called Chewbacca V11. I did the second ascent right after Ian. This is a great compression line with a difficult crux stab out to a sloping edge. Jon Cardwell did the 3rd ascent soon after. This problem starts underclinging a large feature.

Early this month Dave added a very difficult compression line up from the roof called Glow in the Dark Estrellas V14. This starts a on good left hand incut and a right hand on an arete and climbs gigantic moves on stellar rock up an overhanging prow. It is unrepeated. Dave also added a very nice rounded prow called Extra Alienated V9. This has seen a number of repeats, with Isabelle Faus making the FFA.

IMG_1233Nic Oklobzija sends Extra Alienated V9

There are also a number good moderates. Gustavo Moser, Chad Greedy and others have been developing the easier lines. There may be 100 new problems here when all is said and done. It’s been supremely motivating to have a new area to run around. The vibe has typically been great, with a number of people hanging from ropes cleaning new boulders. Dave again is spearheading the effort. Unfortunately, he is leaving soon for Europe. Maybe some of the Colorado locals can step up and do some of the developing?

It looks as though Endo Valley will be in season just before and just after the Park season proper. It sits at an elevation of around 8,900 ft. This was all rediscovered too late for me to properly add it to the guide, so I will do my best to record what has been done and perhaps produce a supplement in a few years. Regardless, it is incredibly motivating to have these pure, massive granite boulders to climb on again.

IMG_1240 The crew enjoys the end of a long day.

IMG_1239Dave Graham and Ian Dory, two of the developers of Endo Valley who have lead the way.

If anyone has any info about problems that were established in previous years, or have been recently established, feel free to post comments!

82 Responses to “Endo Valley”

  1. Craggin Carl

    18. May, 2011

    I just puked in my mouth after reading this!

    1) Who are you people? (not the concerned citizens, but B3 and his disciples? ) Well yeah, B3 who are you too?

    2) I guess not so much to B3 but more to your followers, do you only hear yourselves in a conversation?

    3) B3 try as you might but you will surely publish false information no matter how hard you try to get it right. In case you haven’t figured it out yet, The people that have info don’t give a shit about your Spray Book, I mean Guide Book.
    Seriously in regards to the above #2, you got a nice lay of facts from Seaver just to set your over eager itch to report quickly about something you know nothing about.

    What you fail to recognize in Jason’s message ( maybe I’m wrong in my interpretation here ) is that it wasn’t important to the folks that were there in the beginning. They didn’t see the need to name, grade and document every square meter of stone that has ever been touched. It seems to me that they just didn’t give a shit. All you seek in this thread seems to be numbers, names, dates and what seems to be totally irrelevant information in the eyes of the developers or folks that might have it.

    Were the developers just not visionaries because they didn’t go up there with Cameras, Pros, Reporters and Bloggers to exploit the shit out of every hand hold in RMNP?

    Seems to me the credit you award Dave with only comes with the above escort and entourage.

    4) Sorry B3 I am still trying to get the puke out of my mouth on this one, Did you really write the following?

    “Fine TOM, stand start, matched on a somewhat flat hold at around 5.5 ft. This hold is large enough to accomodate both hands, although it is a somewhat tight fit for someone who is 5?10? and weighs roughly 145 pounds and has what would be considered smaller hands. There are no other reasonably useable or chalked* holds below the above described starting hold. In the photo, the hold is mostly obscured by Nic’s left leg, although part of the chalk on the hold is visible along Nic’s left thigh. I was using the word obvious because I am too busy writing the guidebook to provide the more specific description which you now have.

    *By chalked I mean that the hold appears as though it has been grabbed by a number of other climbers. It does not refer to the small amount of chalk that remains on miniscule footholds from the cleaning process. ”

    Is this the Beta you seek for every meter of stone up there and is this the kind of info you will publish in your guide books? Who asks that kind of info, and who actually gives it?

    5) after reading number 4 above please refer to number 1 again or just read the question here again, Who are you people?

    6) Last but not least,
    Shove that guidebook up your ass when your done with it!

  2. slabdyno

    18. May, 2011

    looks like jon c is posing for another horrendous routesetting ad. lozlz

  3. Mike B

    19. May, 2011

    @B3–Jamie, I have a guy in Idaho who is the same way: I want to climb all the boulders and routes and not tell anyone where they are and they are mine and you can’t come and try anything! He even went so far to make the audacious comment that “I don’t know how much damage McClure’s website has done”. Come up to Idaho this summer, stir some shit up! And I know you don’t climb without a shirt cause then everyone will see how scrawny you are…

    Bottom line, people that are stronger are going to send your projects at some point in time. People that want to hoard areas to themselves are sheltering their own egos from the blow they would endure when Dave comes up and warms up on super sick proj #92.

    After all, we are all climbing, albeit some of us harder than others, and in different disciplines and for different reasons. If the reason that you are in climbing is to go and be alone, in a remote boulderfield, I strongly recommend that you make a hasty exodus from Colorado.

    @J Seaver: The only valid point you made is the one about stashing pads. I will agree with you that people that don’t want to carry pads out every day should stick to Joe’s Valley. I don’t really care how far the approach is, there is no reason to leave your shit in a national park. That is just asking for trouble, not to say if it was OK I would do it for sure, since it sucks to carry pads out in the dark after a long day.

    Great blog Jamie, I like to sit at home and drink some beer and read all the heated comments. Makes me laugh!

  4. Timpson

    19. May, 2011

    @Mike B… is stashing pads any better or okay at all at Joe’s Valley or any other climbing area that’s NOT a national Park? Let’s not get it twisted, lazy is lazy and unethical is unethical, no matter who you are or where you are.

    @ B3 and whoever else would like to respond: in response to something that has been said at least 3 times on b3 lately… “bouldering is the clearly the superior discipline”…. superior how, exactly?

  5. B3

    19. May, 2011

    Timson, those comments were made tongue in cheek. I thought my sarcasm was evident, but apparently not.

  6. timpson

    19. May, 2011

    @B3…. being from New England, I can appreciate sarcasm and I use it often myself, but I don’t know you personally and sarcasm doesn’t always translate through the internet : ) Also, there were at least two parties that used that terminology so I was just curious about the seriousness or lack thereof…

  7. m

    19. May, 2011

    just posting to express my support to the sheriff. can’t really see the point in being bothered to even answer j seaver, cragging carl and the likes.. unfortunately the few good points they make get totally lost in the overwhelming crap you fill your posts with.
    on a different note, b3, the sarcasm is not lost to everyone. as was the meaning of the answer about extra alienated’s beta. apparently though, as evident as these things are, they’re not for everyone to get. unfortunate I know, but what can you do.

  8. Craggin Carl

    19. May, 2011

    I think most people are missing the point, Jason and the other concerned individuals, nor anyone else is trying to hoard or protect pebbles from the public, He is not protecting his super sicko proj from the mutant strength of Grahm’s and the like. He even said rename and grade any thing he has done up there, He Doesn’t give a shit about that. I am sure these folks are more then happy to crag, pebble or drink at the same spot as any of you guys or with anyone that climbs for the most part. The fact is though, they know that park way better then your toilet reading garbage book will ever tell. So because of that you won’t have the opportunity climb with them, because you will never be able to find them, even when they are right under you nose.

    I think sharing is not a problem for them, I think the problem is EXPLOITING a low impact pristine environment that happens to host some good pebbling in an accessible location.

    Which is exactly what B3 is doing , Exploiting, I am sure no one has a problem with sharing, why cant it be a nice spot that just gets shown, or grows through word of mouth, Why does everything have to have a name and a number, and Diarrhea of the mouth beta to be documented along with it.

    Is there any sense of adventure and exploration left in the world.

    I too know what Jason and the like are talking about amongst the general user groups of Pebblers. I like pebbling too, But I saw the Ladder Jason speaks of and the useless amount of crap that was stashed there after Paul was so generously shown “his discovery”

    Your pebbles have been walked upon for generations, they are not being discovered as you so like to put it,

    Have you heard of the really big Pebble up past Chaos called Hallets? People have been playing through Chaos and other areas for generations on there way to some Rok Clmibing. Those pebbles were not a secret in the past, they were just not Exploited by people like you and problems came from this. The park had no idea what bouldering was until the Exploitation era, It did make an impact, A big one with a big concern and a big problem, that is being watched very closely.. The antics such as your exploitation turned heads of the park officials, they are watching this particular user group very closesl. Before long the Klettergarden is gonna get noticed by the park in a much easier light because of your Exploitation., The NPS officials will take notice so close to the road. Don’t ruin a good thing, there are plenty of other places that can handle the impact that you are inflicting on these lands with your Spray. So Exploit them instead.

    And if you think that these are 4 star problems and this is a world class area, well, you really have not found the goods yet, I know who not show now. You just flagged yourself and Paul, Can’t wait to thank him for his efforts on this one.

    You are exploiting B3, I will be more then happy to share what I know and where, But only if you are lucky enough to be invited there and or I see you there, And then you can show your close friends, and so on. But why do you have to throw it all over this Pebble blog and EXPLOIT the shit out of it, If you think you are gonna make a good book of bouldering for RMNP, well for every one of these Klettergarden finds , there are about 20 more, So stop your futile attempt to write an accurate guide. The fact is , if you hang out there long enough , a nice local might be more then happy to share some real estate with ya up there that you have no idea is right under your nose. But most likely not if you have the intentions of Exploiting the shit out of it, in a useless spray of Diarrhea, beta, numbers, and who was 1st, 2nd 3rd etc

    I still stand by my above comments,

    Take your book and shove it so far up your arse you soul soliciting PigF&$%cker!!!!!!!

  9. […] a week or two ago there were some news about a new bouldering area located in Rocky Mountain National Park.  I was not really sure where […]

  10. B3

    19. May, 2011

    “My friends and I have no interest in reporting our ascents.” -J. Seaver


    I assume these are the same people who have commented here.

  11. J Seaver

    19. May, 2011

    I should have specified better, B3. No interest in reporting boulder problems. Not sure how you continue to miss my points entirely.
    I appreciate your interest in my MP submissions though. Maybe you could start a blog about me….

  12. B3

    19. May, 2011

    “I should have specified better, B3. No interest in reporting boulder problems.”


  13. adam strong

    19. May, 2011

    not bad for a pigfu(k€r. definitely a good name for a problem. maybe that crimpy face, “the pigfu(k€r”

  14. interesting...

    19. May, 2011

  15. cameron

    19. May, 2011

    Carl no reason to be so mean, get with the times, you’re dated as shit! you probably still F*** goats!!

  16. J Seaver

    20. May, 2011

    B3, you’re reading level is abysmally low. I didn’t put up The Turning Point, or The Standard Overhang, and I did not report them as my ascents. I posted a picture of The Turning Point (super obscure problem, I know), and some historical perspective on The Standard Overhang (which you claim to seeking).
    You think I’M petty. You are acting in a way that defines that word. I think you know that there are faults in your approach, and you are being overly defensive to pretend they don’t exist.

  17. Joe Vallone

    20. May, 2011

    Has anyone been up there lately, I left a bobcat I was using to excavate some sit starts with a few years back, just never made it back. Is it still there its behind the start of

    “Are you for real” V71/2 or maybe V63/4 depending on your height, age and weight, primary diet, type of beer used prior to attempt and if you use the start holds at 1.2 meters or the alternate start hold at 1.3 meters. The rating might be subject to change based on how you hold the starting hold too, If you use all your digits from both hands it’s a bit easier then just using the index and middle of your left with the thumb slightly undercutting the chip near the crystal across from the lichen. It’s just to the right and across from Paul’s Ladder which is what I am calling one of the blocs there from now on.

    Also if you see it in the area, I seem to have miss placed my power washer and a digital camera in the area.

    The Camera is most important to me as it documents some early ascents and my pocket guide to the area won’t be complete without those early day photos. Its ready for print but I just want to put out the most accurate guide I can, and those photos really will support some of the most significant accomplishments in climbing history.

    And to all you noobs up there, be careful, just a heads up there are a bunch of trolls in that forest and not to mention the occasional garden gnome.

  18. Craggin Carl

    20. May, 2011

    MikeB your a retard for thinking the way you do, you don’t get it, your statements are stereotypical thinking. You are missing the point. I think all the steroids you pump so that when you take your shirt off you look good are starting to go to your brain.

    Nobody gives a shit about their projects except the people that probably post them on this site, the rest in this blog could give 1 or possibly 2 shits on a good day about someone stronger sending their proj, It has happened to me 100’s of times because 1 I am not that strong and 2 I had bigger and better things to climb then to throw myself at a meter of climbing for a whole season.

    If I can’t do something and someone else does it first, I usually get inspired and work harder at it. Unlike the B3 disciples and the likes, When someone snakes your proj you cry and bitch and throw sissy tantrums, because your score card now doesn’t say first :-( But you then work really hard because somehow you guys seem to think that reporting 2nd is just as important, and 3rd and 4th for that matter, If your not first your the first loser and that seems to be all that matters to you Fu(%Tards!

  19. CEK

    20. May, 2011

    As I am super busy with work and life in general I usually dont make the time to go out and explore for new climbing areas. I look forward to going online and looking for new places to climb.

    @B3 Thanks for posting grades and route descriptions of the newly established problems in the Endo Valley bouldering area. I look forward to climbing there in the future.

    @JSeaver Thanks for posting grades and route descriptions on MP for your newly established area the Long Walk Wall at Lumpy Ridge. I look forward to climbing there in the future.

    I enjoy climbing boulders and placing gear and appreciate the interweb postings that both of you have made.

  20. Jon Linhart

    20. May, 2011

    Nice to see all the usual Estes trad pose is still alive and protective of our “hidden gems” of the park. And Jamie and ALL others, sorry but we climbed ALL that shit years ago. Nah really I’m glad to hear Endo has been rediscovered, and hope that roof project goes… We always knew it was classic but none of us were the one to send it. I think however it mighty funny that there is so much debate about the who, what and when. WHO GIVES A FUCK, GO CLIMBING AND HAVE FUN! Stop all the bickering and debate, does it really matter… I was there before you, and so what!

  21. Mike b

    20. May, 2011

    @CragginCarl. Ignorance must be your forte. I am not from CO, I don’t cry and bitch when someone “snakes” my project…I train harder to climb harder and don’t really give a shit if my name is next to the FA in some guidebook. I go climbing to climb, it just so happens that from time to time I read climbing blogs or websites, and if I think that the topic is important enough to me I will make a comment. Bottom line you are a dick…but its ok you have to live with that.

    Back to the issue at hand: there are secret crags all over the place that people go and develop and want to keep to themselves. I have personally developed some areas that were NOT secret, I like to climb with others and share what I have found. I have climbed plenty of things first, and have watched plenty of things I worked for an entire season get sent right in front of me when I was rehabbing a pulley injury. So don’t judge people’s climbing backgrounds unless you know what it is. Same goes for everyone else. Jamie is reporting some news about something that he thinks is important. Leave it at that.

    Oh and about the steroids thing…I would refrain from accusing people on the internet under an alias of doing steroids. And i thought that I was supposed to be the f***tard.

    @Lynn Arvies…see you this summer in the Park man, I am going to wear a nametag so that people can talk shit to my face.

  22. j

    20. May, 2011

    Jamie, the general quality of the posts on this site is very high. You shouldn’t have to be lambasted by the misdirected, narrow opinions of egomaniacs. I’m sorry that they think your site is a reasonable avenue for their behavior.

    The integrity, history and details of a problem can have meaning for some without being universally necessary. If someone isn’t interested in the guidebook’s offerings, why would they not simply respectfully decline to purchase it, rather than post libelous drivel? Choosing the latter route makes us all look foolish.

    Respect for the areas that make our lifestyle possible is a crucial element in the equation, and I doubt anyone is a stronger proponent of that attitude than Jamie. Having a responsible attitude towards the preservation of an area and welcoming an area to newcomers are concepts that can coexist. That is part of what makes bouldering so great.

    Thanks for maintaining the blog. It’s a great source of news, inspiration and relevant discourse.

  23. Jabroni

    21. May, 2011

    ‘You’re reading level is abysmally low’

    Priceless! You are is what it is not when how when that is not and what it is, is, not when how it was not.

  24. v double digit while smokin a cigarette

    22. May, 2011

    Ur difficulty of problems can be counted with my own two fingers. try something more harder and nar nar. word!

  25. DuBois

    23. May, 2011

    Douchiness does exist at either side of the debate. Apologies for my very un-eloquent first post, my thesaurus had gone missing. See ya’ll in the hills.

  26. GD

    25. May, 2011

    If you got haters you know you are doing something right!

  27. […] to the park to check out the “new” area. Upon arrival, I was immediately taken by the beautiful roof project. I am most definitely a sucker for the obvious, clean, aesthetic lines. And so I went to work. Day […]

  28. novak

    01. Jun, 2011

    I think you all are massive stinking douchebags. I hear they just put up a new epic four circle problem at the Spot. Why don’t you go send that and leave the Park for real climbers.

  29. MJ

    06. Jun, 2011

    How exactly do you get to the boulders? Could i get some directions on how to get there by car and then where to hike to get to the boulders?

  30. GoldieLocks

    07. Jun, 2011

    Whoa, ive been out of the game for a year and a half an nothing seems to change. Its the classic story. EP locals are mad because since ep sucks so bad there shouldn’t be hoards of front rangers/internationals at the world class blocks there. Ain t gonna happen, RMNP and evans are the two PREMIER summer bouldering areas in the northern hemisphere!!! Yes ep is one of the least cool towns in america but the bouldering is spectacular, so people are gonna come. Also, since ive been out i realized that the normal world has a lot less haters, Thats the case here. Most of these crusty ep locals are just pissed off because they want to climb 13 r/x but cant boulder harder than v4 so you know it ain’t gonna happen. ep is like a black hole and segregated, these guys will never see dg, woods or cardwell at the blocs, so they can cultivate their distorted perception of their rock scrambling skills. This cant happen in hueco where you are on tour with the pros. This is compounded with huge egos and the knowledge that bouldering isn’t really climbing so why would i boulder? You see they re own personal hell right? They re also pissed that with their “real” life they can only climb a couple days a week, unlike you and I and all the other “rock stars” or REAL” climbers that work three months and then are off to the valley,hueco, font, joes, then south africa. And get to climb, kick it and party with the pros. Compared to that lifestyle anything sucks (besides maybe being a famous musician). And since bouldering isn;t really climbing, they cant understand why you would need even one pad, let alone 5 or ten. Bouldering is just goofing off when you cant go climbing for real right? Im old school, when i get off work and run up to chaos i m gonna pull out eight stashed pads, session for a couple hours solo and then stash and bail, that the true spirit and culture of rmnp bouldering, go ask any estes OG boulderer. I know because I was one.There it is, you purists can all tear me apart.

  31. J Seaver

    13. Jun, 2011

    Would “OG” stand for Original Gangsta?
    Is Goldie Locks your real name?
    Naw, can’t be, right?
    The Urinator is my guess.

    What is up with the people that rant and flame and brag about their knowledge of “the true spirit and culture” of things, then meekly identify themselves as Goldie Locks?
    Get a spine. Insert it into your back. Then use it to carry your crash pad back to your Subaru.

  32. bmart

    23. Dec, 2011


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