Poudre Canyon

Poudre Canyon

Posted on 18. Apr, 2011 by in News

Saturday I went to the Poudre Canyon to try and finish off the low roof Critical Mass V12. The weather was awful and we drove up and down the upper portion of the canyon, hoping for it to change. That never really happened, but Critical Mass is a steep roof and it remained dry enough for me to climb it. I was really hoping to go to back to Red Feather and try any number of projects.

IMG_1124Critical Mass V12

My climbing time has been somewhat limited as of late, as I have been finishing up on the Bouldering Guide to Rocky Mountain National Park and Mt. Evans. I will post updates when I have more information as to when it will be available but at this point I have almost 2 years invested in the project.

Finally, I also climbed The Hug Right V11 last week. I think this took me 6 days, but I wasn’t counting closely. Someone suggested to me that it might be V12, because it had taken so relatively long (I did Free Range V13 in fewer days). There seems to be a trend among some climbers recently that if something takes more days than expected, then it must be a higher grade. I don’t think time is the deciding factor in grade determination. V11 has never been easy for me and for a number of reasons this one was particularly challenging. I like the fact that rock climbing is challenging, humbling and difficult. I wouldn’t be interested if it weren’t. It has been a goal of mine from the beginning to be as well rounded as possible, and that means that sometimes I have to spend 6 or more days on a grade I have previously flashed. I think it demonstrates that I still have much to learn, and that this continues to provide a source of strong motivation. I like that I got shut down, and that motivates me to want to get better.

14 Responses to “Poudre Canyon”

  1. Adam M

    18. Apr, 2011

    With ya on that one. Grades can be a pain in the ass. Shosholoza…few tries. Out of Balance…like 5 days. WTF.

    I just like finding beta that works and putting it together.

  2. michael

    18. Apr, 2011

    If a climb is on video then the moves become a google times easier than what the first ascentionist had to do, let alone someone walking up to it and seeing chalk & tick marks for feet.

  3. michael

    18. Apr, 2011

    This is the reason I dont film and release any of my FA’s in Oak Park to the public. Climbs like- Organism on Steroids, The Inquisitor, Dig Deep, Daves Roof, Baby Jesus Only Lives In The Bible, and many more that havent been repeated… I simply dont want the public getting my beta and quickly sending a technical testpiece that I put up.

  4. sammy d

    18. Apr, 2011

    sandbagger

  5. Daniel Madson

    18. Apr, 2011

    Dude, sick. I need to get up there this season. Psyched to see the new guide books man!!

  6. kurt

    19. Apr, 2011

    wow michael way to take your ball and go home

  7. sticcs

    19. Apr, 2011

    nice photo jamie

  8. climbhighco

    19. Apr, 2011

    Hahaha Jamie cant flash v11…hahahaha must be getting old…and fat

  9. BIG SOCKA CHOSSHANDS

    19. Apr, 2011

    on the flip side of the coin, does this mean that ‘small arms’ really was v12 and it just suited you?

  10. sidepull

    19. Apr, 2011

    Two comments:

    1) One of the BEST things about this blog are the intro photographs – awesome landscapes that really evoke the energy of being outside. I love to see new posts with these things, some are just so striking. Great work!

    2) Thanks for critiquing the “time spent” hypothesis that is in heavy rotation on 8a.nu. The amount of time it takes to climb something isn’t directly correlated to a grade. I get sick of people including it “I climbed V15 but it only took me two days” as if the “two days” were more important or just as important as the send. I’d way rather hear about what was learned eg., “realized I need to work on my crimp strength” or “seems like the sloper training paid off on this one.”

    Great post!

  11. michael

    19. Apr, 2011

    @ kurt- way to compare two totally different things to show similarity

    quick, anybody…what type of fallacy is that called?

    I was talking about climbing
    if you wanna talk to me like that in person then come climb with me in Grand Ledge.

  12. Nietzsche

    21. Apr, 2011

    Is sockhands already nostalgic for the days of yore? Reflecting that he might have actually climbed the illusive 8A+?

    In terms of (yes) grades, while I don’t think that time spent on a problem is determines the grade I think it is a useful tool and shouldn’t be discounted.

    That said, I have been trying the Hug Right and do think it is 8A. Good work jemerson on taking down a nemesis.

  13. B3

    21. Apr, 2011

    thanks!

  14. BIG SOCKA CHOSSHANDS

    22. Apr, 2011

    in colorado, there are no 8A+s, only 8As and easy hateBs, i would never fall into the trap of believing that i did an 8A+ or that tyler durden could be killed by a shot through the cheek.

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