Projects in the Park

Projects in the Park

Posted on 28. Mar, 2011 by in News

In the past few months I have been very motivated to find, clean, develop and put up new problems. I find myself becoming more and more passionate about first ascents, and in turn, the entire process which brings a new boulder to fruition. Discovery, adventure and trying to see the world and the crumbs of its crumbling crust in new ways has become a new realm of climbing that more and more I choose to explore. Essentially creating new beta, coming up with new names and hunting to find new problems in areas climbers don’t typically visit is all part of the game.
Last fall, after several long days of hiking (and finding nothing) in the dense forests of RMNP, I stumbled upon an incredible new boulder with an incredible new roof. Today I finally made it back with Daniel Woods and Brian Capps, psyched to give it some attempts. Winter still has its firm grasp on the land. It was cold and the white mountains silently stood watch.
The roof holds several projects, but we went to work on the “king line” which comes out the middle of the awesomely steep wall. The moves are stellar, and the rock is the typically featured swirly gneiss for which the Park has become so famous. It was a good, but snowy session and I look forward to heading back soon. The top remains buried, and has yet to be thoroughly cleaned, but of the lower moves Daniel did all but one. This looks to be at least V14. It is amazing that Colorado continues to produce such quality problems. Extremely motivating. If you are interested in checking out this project, directions will be in the new Rocky Mountain NP and Mt. Evans Bouldering Guide, in the Veritas Section. It is now nearly complete and should be out in time for the upcoming season. More to come…

IMG_0877 Daniel Woods attempts a new and difficult project deep in the forest of RMNP.


IMG_0868 Brian Capps tries to hold the difficult tension moves.

IMG_0885 Daniel Woods, fresh of his quick repeat of Warpath V14, in the midst of the crux.


17 Responses to “Projects in the Park”

  1. Daniel Madson

    28. Mar, 2011

    This is sick! It’ll be awesome to see this thing go down. Maybe Brian can take a day off from counting beans and make it happen.

  2. Chuck Diesel

    28. Mar, 2011

    Glad to know the climbing community in Colorado is with open arms on sharing new found boulders and projects. Wish my climbing community was similar.

  3. polaropposite

    28. Mar, 2011

    Sounds more and more like you’re just trying to rationalize not roping up…all that difficulty (and more) is out there waiting for you, you just need to read the writing on the wall (not the writing on the crumb)

  4. Mojo

    28. Mar, 2011


    How is sport climbing going to provide the same experience as searching the forest for new boulders, envisioning lines, and sending them?

    All types of climbing provide the opportunity for development, but developing boulders is a far different experience from bolting another line at the crag . . .

  5. Andy

    28. Mar, 2011

    I think there is still plenty to be found, it just depends on how long and far you are willing to hike.

  6. Yo Chi

    28. Mar, 2011

    A PSA regarding polaropposite: don’t feed the trolls.

  7. B3

    28. Mar, 2011

    This hike is less than 10 minutes off the Bear Lake Rd.

  8. michael

    28. Mar, 2011

    lol, you still talk about trolls

  9. SETH

    29. Mar, 2011

    Nice find Jamie! Rock looks amazing. Can’t wait to see the footage on the send!

  10. Loren Gwartney-Gibbs

    29. Mar, 2011

    Glad to see RMNP continues to share her secrets. CO continues to produce some of the best in the country and I wanted to use this forum to tell about the continued developement of Independence Pass. A friend and I developed more than 300 new problems last summer, with at least three new “sectors” yet to be cleaned. Our total could exceed 1000 by the end of this summer. Problem is, we are bouldering in the V10 range and need some stong ones to come up and help grade the magnificent lines that are harder. These are public lands and anyone willing to explore, will find the potential enormous. Having lived and climbed in the Boulder area for years I can tell you that Independence Pass is a gem. The guidebook will hopefully be out in 2012, with some help. Don’t be shy to drive the extra two hours if you want to climb some amazing new lines.

  11. Adam M

    29. Mar, 2011

    I”m with ya Loren! when I get back from Spain in early July, i’m totally down with Indy Pass to Explore!

  12. Simone

    29. Mar, 2011


    I believe I am moving from the front range to Glennwood area at the end of the summer. Would love to hook up for some tours with people knowledgable of the area. Is there a way we can get in touch?

  13. Danny B

    30. Mar, 2011

    I hate waiting for snow to melt. Nice post.

  14. Loren Gwartney-Gibbs

    30. Mar, 2011

    If anybody wants a tour on Indy Pass, you can email me at The Pass opens on Memorial day. You can also go to which my friend Sam has started and with whom I am writing the guidebook. Tom Perkins Independence Pass Climbing guidebook has some of the original bouldering as well. The site is going to be the place where we will post some of the sectors as they are put on InDesign for the book. You can go there now and see a few photos, but it dosn’t quite do justice the new boulders and the Pass’s potential. Cheers!

  15. Loren Gwartney-Gibbs

    10. Apr, 2011

    With late snow my life is becoming frustrating waiting for the Pass to clear from snow. Fortunately, we snowshoed up the othe day, cleaned five feet of snow off a small wall only to find four or five problems. One should be in the V8 range with another in the V5-6 range. Both will be 10-12 move classics. Come help us rediscover Independence Pass!

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