Movement Setting Crew

Movement Setting Crew

Posted on 14. Mar, 2011 by in News

Three or four days a week I work as a routesetter at Movement Climbing and Fitness. It is an awesome place to work and I work with some of the best routesetters in the country. Mike Moelter is the head setter, and one of only three internationally certified setters in America. There are a number of V12-V14 and 5.13 and 5.14 redpoints among this very talented group. Here is our crew from a recent ad. Having a motivated group of guys to work hard with is a great thing and these guys are some of the best.

If you are viewing this in Reader enjoy the larger image. If you’d like an unobstructed view of the larger image, click on the header photo.
ad_feb2011 movement crew-1 Jordon Griffler, Ryan Sewell, Jon Cardwell, Bobby Moelter, Donell Humphrey, Jamie Emerson, Mike Moelter

37 Responses to “Movement Setting Crew”

  1. Jgriffler

    14. Mar, 2011

    JordOn Griffler.

  2. slabdyno

    14. Mar, 2011

    sick, what do these guys get paid per route/boulder problem?

  3. Gomez

    15. Mar, 2011

    How come you are standing down the back there, Jamie?

  4. B3

    15. Mar, 2011

    Because I have to keep an eye on everyone, Gomez.

  5. Kaelen W

    15. Mar, 2011

    Love the purple .13a on the left side on the overhang, Jamie! Very unique and fun movement.

  6. Praxeology

    15. Mar, 2011

    Climbed at the gym a few weeks back while on a business trip. Awesome gym, and some of the nicest problems I have climbed on in while.

    Props gentlemen!

  7. B3

    15. Mar, 2011

    thanks guys, we were just trying to have a little fun with it.

  8. Strongmo

    15. Mar, 2011

    I would still be white trash, without God.

  9. tendon

    15. Mar, 2011

    ur a pansy!!! dont post shit for months then you leave me that big of an opening. I mean i appreciate the gift and all but seriously! cmon people would laugh u wussy!

  10. Slabdyno

    16. Mar, 2011

    Well I hope these strong doods aren’t just setting to climb for free, or do they have to pay to climb too? Oof… What’s the deal ? What makes it so great to set there? Just names and “psych”? Or do you guys get paid/properly compensated for your superhero skills?

  11. JamesO

    16. Mar, 2011

    I just asked my shelf of hot sauces which hot sauce I wanted, outloud. Thought you would appreciate that. But it is off topic.

  12. B3

    16. Mar, 2011

    James, would you care to voice your opinion about the routesetting at Movement?

  13. B3

    16. Mar, 2011

    It’s a great and supportive environment, it’s very structured, we all have our own tool boxes, the setting closet is more of a giant room with amazing holds to choose from. I been to may be 25 gyms in my day and things are run smoothly and it’s nice to be part of such a cohesive unit. And I think thought some of you would get a laugh out of the photo.

  14. JamesO

    16. Mar, 2011

    Ha ha ha my opinion seems to have been lost in a series of tubes.

    Although I would encourage people to get out and try new things on plastic as well as on rock.

    I have always wanted to go on a trip to England to climb at the famous School Room.

    What I find very interesting though is how this desire and focus is seen as not only strange but essentially unworthy and silly. At least that is the reaction I commonly get. Why on Earth would someone fly to England to climb inside on plastic???

    Well I think many need to see climbing in a broader temporal scale. The very practice of traditional climbing on El Capitan was originally seen as practice for ‘real’ climbing; alpine mountain climbing. People who started rock climbing as an end and not a means were laughed at. But then not too long ago people started bouldering as practice for ‘real’ climbing; route climbing. And now bouldering is seen as a valid activity in its own right.

    And where we are now, I can say from personal experience, is that plastic climbing is seen as practice for ‘real’ climbing; climbing on rocks. I know this because when I express my love for climbing inside I am literally laughed at.

    Quick anecdote: One of my friends back in MD was asking one of my friends in Boulder how hard I was climbing. My friend in Boulder hesitated, and listed a problem I had done years back, the hardest grade I had ticked outside. When pressed about what I was really climbing he said (not verbatim) “Well I suppose VHarder in CATS . . . but . . I mean that is not really climbing”

    I think this will be a dated attitude, one that is not looking at the larger picture.

    So just as people travel far from their home crags to get more experience and perspective on rock climbing, I think that sometimes people should stray away from their home gym to experience other indoor climbing. Sometimes you will find amazing new things or sometimes it will cause you to appreciate your home areas more.

    Do not let others tell you what is good or bad rock, or good or bad setting.

    CLIMB ON WHAT YOU ENJOY.

  15. TimS

    16. Mar, 2011

    The School Room no longer exists, so you’d be struggling to get an invite to climb there now! The new standards for training boards in the UK are the Beastmaker boards at the Climbing Works in Sheffield and the Climbing Depot in Leeds, although these have only been up for a couple of years, so haven’t garnered the legendary status of the 50 degree board at the School.

  16. Adam M

    16. Mar, 2011

    YOu guys look badass!

    And movement gym is phenomenal. It’s my perfect kind of gym.

    And is Mike coming out of retirement to set for worlds? If he is, then maybe I can join in the next “retirement” party in the LAB.

    Nice work guys, the routes are awesome.

  17. peter beal

    16. Mar, 2011

    Interestingly enough Rock’n and Jam’n in Thornton has a Moon Board.

    Re: climbing inside, while I agree that one should climb what one enjoys, climbing outside presents complexities, challenges and opportunities that inside climbing never can offer.

  18. Philip

    16. Mar, 2011

    @James

    When you finally send Terre de Sienne or the Swarm people would give you full credit for your awesome abilities in CATS. Also, if you top one of those two out then the satisfaction you will feel will be ten times greater than the happiness you felt from doing Organic or Petzl. That is the distinction between outdoors and indoors right now, and why the two are looked at so differently.

  19. JamesO

    16. Mar, 2011

    Peter,

    You are being too vague to argue with.

    Indoors you can realize any vision that you may have. There are unlimited possibilities. It is possible to push yourself to your absolute limit. There are plenty of positives that are exclusive to indoor climbing.

    To say that challenges, complexity, and opportunities(whatever that even means) is exlusive to outdoor climbing does not make sense to me.

  20. peter beal

    16. Mar, 2011

    James,
    I will try to be more specific. You noted that indoors you can realize any vision you may have. Suppose you were interested in possibilities that you or anyone else couldn’t have conceived of? That’s what real rock offers. That’s the beauty of the natural world.

    Sure there are positives to climbing inside. I climb inside all the time. But let’s compare the setting of Chaos to say that of CATS. Chaos involves altitude, potentially serious weather, a hefty approach, limited season, and potentially bad landings. The boulders and the holds are complex and beautifully sculpted and offer every kind of movement you can imagine and maybe some you can’t. Every time you rest between attempts, you look out across alpine scenery that is world-class in its beauty and variety. More often than not, there is only the sound of wind blowing across the high peaks. There are still dozens if not hundreds of excellent first ascents still waiting to be done.

    Now CATS. You drive up to the door from a four-lane street. There is a car dealer across the little creek and railroad tracks and a vacant lot adjacent to the gym. Inside there are a series of flat plywood walls of different colors. They are plastered with hundreds of holds, most of them straightforward edges and pinches of various sizes. Some of them have stickers next to them. The base is composed of big fat gymnastic mats. There are young girl gymnasts everywhere. There is music. You can stay at CATS until 10 or 11 pm year-round.

    The two settings are not remotely in the same league. If you want to try pushing the limits, imagine trying to grab an ascent of your project on the last day of the season as the snow is moving in. Some might say that’s not the point of bouldering but I call it part of the game as played in the real world.

    I didn’t say that climbing inside presented no challenges, complexities or opportunities. I said that climbing outside presents the kind that are simply unavailable in the gym and never will be. Boulderers, for better or worse, recognize the difference and judge accordingly. V12 or even V15 in CATS is cool but remains subordinate to accomplishments made in a setting where so much is beyond human control.

  21. Medic

    16. Mar, 2011

    I think the word ‘outside’ might have a lot of something to do with what Peter is talking about.

  22. Justin

    16. Mar, 2011

    “Indoors you can realize any vision that you may have.”

    This is true and awesome, but outdoors you will encounter challenges that you cannot imagine, pure wonderful gifts of nature.

    To each there own, and more power to you.

  23. pootytaang

    17. Mar, 2011

    That guy with the tatt looks DANGEROUS!

  24. Kaelen W

    17. Mar, 2011

    Well said, Peter.

  25. JamesO

    17. Mar, 2011

    Ha ha ha not trying to be hostile Peter and sorry for taking up your time replying to these things.

    I would say your aesthetic description of the two is spot on. However maybe I am just slow today, but that did not really seem to address my point. The main thing we are looking at are your stated “challenges, complexities, and opportunities”

    From what I can tell the challenges outdoors are superior because you have to deal with weather?

    The opportunities are for enjoying the scenery?

    And the complexities are because (questionably) nature creates movements I could never imagine? Chris Danielson makes movements I never would have thought of. This does not make him a mystic force. I have made moves in CATS that I have not seen nature come up with yet.

    One thing that I would argue though is the holds of Chaos Canyon Vs. CATS. Have you climbed on the Centaur boulder? If you were to take either location and turn the holds into the same medium I promise CATS would be seen as superior. Man is definitely capable of making a wider variety of shapes than nature. Especially as if one encounters an amazing hold outside you can then shape a hold off of it. This enable you to not be limited by geology. You can move from an amazing tufa pinches to perfect Joe’s Valley incuts.

    This is not that important though.

    The important part that I do not understand is the last sentence. So basically if I understand, indoor sends are subordinate because weather does not exist and because holds are made via erosion etc. instead of a human? This sounds silly and as I write this I feel that I am misquoting you, but you say ” in a setting where so much is beyond human control.” Feel free to ignore the upper section of the post and simply respond to this.

    If I want to experience nature I will go on a hike or camping. If I am going Bouldering I want to challenge myself. Yes you can challenge yourself outside but you cannot find your limit nor create the challenge that you desire.

  26. Adam M

    17. Mar, 2011

    I also think that photo is kind of sexist and biased. You should let some of the badass ladies like Chelsea, Anjie, or Taylor set!

    The picture would also look significantly hotter. Especially with…well…you know who i’m talking about.

  27. TimS

    17. Mar, 2011

    @Peter Beal The Moon Board was a relatively recent introduction tp the School ROom, and was not the one with all the classic problems on (Pinky Perky, etc), which was just to the right and was steeper with a variety of holds from banisters and home made pockets to more modern resin, you can see the two boards here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eA_zHzbUhpk

    For me indoor climbing is, and will always be just a way of getting better at climbing on rocks.

  28. B3

    17. Mar, 2011

    Thanks for the kindness as always Markert.

  29. Cardwell looks like he’s ready to brawl.

  30. Hardin

    18. Mar, 2011

    @JamesO / Beal

    Without picking sides, you both bring up good arguements…well at least good theories. James, like peter, i believe that sends indoors are much less significant than ones done outside. It will never come close to the satisfaction and respect one gets from sending a “real” estabilished problem outdoors. And I know the other side of this is that the indoor problems can have credibility much like an est outside problem, but there will always be that area of doubt or feeling that it isn’t quite a valid send from non-local onlookers. Just for instances, those light ass v10-12 boulder problems I see at all the Boulder area gyms couldn’t stand up to an east coast gyms v8-9! haha. but on to where peter failed to make a solid arguement is that climbing outdoors isn’t about the challenge of rain, or a season slipping away… It’s the whole shabang, it’s the combination of everything that makes for the experience of being and climbing outside. Everyone knows that feeling is different than being indoors.

    Now to get back on James’ side….Mother Nature ain’t got shit on me when i’m slingin plastic. That B would stand in amazement with the movement I create on a daily basis. The possibilities of indoor “climbing” are endless, and you can set moves that might never appear outdoors. While I agree that the experience isn’t the same as climbing outdoors, I suggest that it SHOULDN’T be. They are too different animals and each have their place.

    -Jeremy H

  31. big poppa chosscrush

    18. Mar, 2011

    quick notes before disappearing again into the festering and smoldering wreckage of my day: i like james o a lot more after reading these posts.

    james, jamie, chris, and rylan should come and climb my morning problems on my basement wall. i will try to eradicate the dog stink before hand. i am curious of the difficulty of these lines. i enjoy the movement, though it is constrained.

    mike is not allowed because of that one time he was hella rude at flagstaff in july 2001 by being all like “STFU with your introduction and niceness to strangers, just let me do laps on hagans wall, consideration, and contemplation in pease, fukr!”

    peter is also not allowed because the 8x8ft climbing surface, ‘topping out’ at 5.75 feet, is too tall for him to justify putting his health, safety, and ability to support his family on the line, let alone the high chance of staph infection and/or toxoplasmosis, as well as brain ameobas.

  32. big poppa chosscrush

    18. Mar, 2011

    i’m yet uncertain whether the miramont crew can come. on one hand, they may help clean up the “landing” (i.e. removing dog turds, hair, spindrift chalk, chewed up stick and pad bits). on the other hand, they may pry off that loose heel hook feature i made out of pine 2x4s sketchily drilled into layers.

    jh and id can come, though, because out at the crags they have demonstrated their happy willingness to do exactly what they are told and i have a lot of raking leftover from the fall that needs to be done.

  33. peter beal

    18. Mar, 2011

    James,
    You are welcome to hang out at CATS as long as it is still standing. I have done a lot of that myself, so I know the allure. What I have found is that in the end, it doesn’t count for very much in the big picture. I have some good memories but they are very limited compared to time spent on climbing outdoor routes and problems.

    If you feel comfortable in that environment, and who wouldn’t, then by all means stay there as much as you want. I have found greater value in sticking to natural challenges and am much happier for it, however silly that may sound.

    Most of your arguments are deliberately contrarian and not worth further discussion. While I am reluctant to cite the beliefs of the majority of climbers as evidence, the fact is that most climbers ultimate vote for a richer experience by trying problems and routes on real rock. If you claim you can’t see the difference, more power to you. My prediction is that you will climb long enough either to decide to climb outside more or quit the sport. Many have preceded you in making this choice. I speak from long experience.

  34. jim

    20. Mar, 2011

    I think the perceived difference in value or genuineness of outdoor and indoor climbing is just a social norm that probably comes from the fact that outdoor rock is relatively more permanent.

  35. cj

    21. Mar, 2011

    Wow, that ad doesn’t make Colorado look like ” a scene” at all ;)…….what has happened to climbing! May many egos be tripped within the confines of yer gym

  36. big poppa chosscrush

    21. Mar, 2011

    jim said it with the best economy of words thus far.

    a big reason why FAs and big repeats are ‘vaued’ in the community more than successes indoors is that very generally speaking, other folks get to go try the same line with the same holds and the same moves into the future.

    other than that aspect of (quasi) permanence, then the only real factor between indoor and outdoor is personal preference and perceptions of experience.

    if james takes as much out of his indoor sessions, then for him, outdoor is not better. it is not an absolute. it is personal. and for him and others like him, indoor can be more fulfilling.

    i would certainly say i have felt this myself. an indoor session with good friends, good psych, and good smack talking can be WAY more fun and fulfilling than a solo hate session on a fussy project.

    other than the perception of permanence in outdoor climbing (another vane attempt to achieve immortality), it seems there is no objective reason why outdoor climbing is more valuable or better than indoor.

  37. sidepull

    23. Mar, 2011

    I agree with Jim and Big Poppa, which provides even more fuel for my idea of having an indoor climbing museum, where climbs (eg., routes/boulders – although I’m more interested in the latter) are established and agreed upon at each grade and the climbs themselves are then kept as a representation of what each grade should feel like. It would be similar to the International Bureau of Weights and Measures (http://www.sizes.com/units/BIPM.htm) but for climbing and I would argue, if done well, could actually make whatever gym housed it a climbing destination on its own.

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