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Carlo Traversi climbs The Game

Carlo Traversi climbs The Game

Posted on 13. Mar, 2011 by in News

I just got back from Boulder Canyon, where I watched Carlo Traversi become the second person to climb Daniel Woods’ testpiece The Game. Carlo’s effort was inspiring, and afterwards he said, “This is definitely the hardest problem I have ever done.” Very nice job! Here is his comment from 8a.nu:

2nd Ascent. 5 days. First of all, the utmost respect goes to Daniel for establishing this line. In terms of strength and ability, he is by far the visionary leader of our generation. Not to mention, he’s also one of the nicest and most respectful people you’ll ever meet. As for the grade of this one, I honestly don’t know. 8C seems appropriate only because I haven’t climbed any others. It’s a hard boulder, that’s fun to climb on, and seems to fit my style very well. Let’s just leave it at that…

Not surprisingly he has suggested a downgrade to V15. Will there ever be another hard problem that doesn’t get downgraded? Ah well, I guess The Game is not over…

DSC_3687 Carlo Traversi sends The Game. Thanks to Brandon Amos for the photo!

33 Responses to “Carlo Traversi climbs The Game”

  1. […] last year, suggested that V15 might be a more appropriate grade for The Game.  As Jamie Emerson said in his update regarding this send, “I guess The Game is not […]

  2. Omar Little

    13. Mar, 2011

  3. Robert

    13. Mar, 2011

    It appears that carlos beta is a little different, he doesnt do the wild feet cut swing that Daniel does. Am I crazy or did he use slightly different beta?

  4. PatC

    13. Mar, 2011

    Yo Omar’s coming…Omar! Omar…Omar’s coming!

  5. Danny B

    13. Mar, 2011

    Everyone has weaknesses they are not aware of, this may be an example of a weakness Daniel Woods had, but was only just challenged in such a way, for this particular boulder problem. Carlo came along with the similar strengths and not the same weaknesses. So, this makes it difficult to determine what the grade may be. And even where the crux for each climber may be.

  6. alex

    13. Mar, 2011

    Somehow I just knew this would get seconded before Lucid Dreaming.

  7. matt

    14. Mar, 2011

    thats because lucid dreaming has never been climbed… thats the word on the street anyways.

  8. aron

    14. Mar, 2011

    And this ”we’ve walked on the moon” thing is just bullshit… I know.

  9. peter

    14. Mar, 2011

    that this was repeated before LD in no way takes away from Woods’ accomplishment. Look at the crowd that’s in the video! No fewer than 5 or 6 of them could have potentially snagged the second ascent. Imagine the psyche!!!! Uncut footage of that session would be AMAZING to have. Reminds me of why I love bouldering.

    ps has anyone notable even TRIED lucid dreaming? (beyond nalle’s three or four attempts, that is)

  10. USA

    14. Mar, 2011

    Matt Birch got VERY close to getting the FA! But then again, he doesn’t have a blog, so I guess he is not “notable”…

  11. Mojo

    14. Mar, 2011

    Sorry, but getting “very close” really doesn’t mean shit. Especially on a problem with a two move crux. From watching the video, Paul was getting “really close” on just about every attempt. You don’t do it til you do it.

    We might not have heard about many people trying Lucid Dreaming, but every strong climber that goes there will at least look at it and fondle the holds. It is on the front side of the first boulder 100 feet from the first parking lot at the first area you would go to in bishop.

    The fact that we haven’t heard about anyone really trying it is a testament to the difficulty of this problem. It’s really fucking tall too. It’s intimidating to think about climbing that boulder by any route.

  12. peter

    14. Mar, 2011

    @ USA:
    I had forgotten about Birch coming close. I’d heard that in the past. Having had the pleasure of standing beneath “The Singularity,” I would certainly consider him “notable.” No disrespect toward him and his abilities intended.

  13. Anon

    14. Mar, 2011

    @ Peter: I thought Tim Clfford put up “The Singularity” aka the former Squamish Room Project, and that it was unrepeated.

  14. Josh

    14. Mar, 2011

    @Mojo –
    What’s up with the LD obsession? Any time someone brings up anything about the climb, you have to mention how beautiful, aesthetic, amazing, hard, insert hyperbole here it is, and how everyone “fondles the holds”. I think the fact that nobody tries it is more a testament to a lack of interest.

    You mean from watching the real rock tour video he looked like he was “really close” every go. Which doesn’t mean anything. They also made it look like they had FA footage, which doesn’t exist. On a side note, who climbs something “really fucking tall” without at least a spotter? He may have been “really close” every time. Or he may have been “really close” a handful of times and they edited it in such a way that it appeared that he was very close. Either way, I think being “really close” to completing what is essentially a two-move problem does mean a lot. To me it means more than being “really close” on something that has a more sustained crux.

    Much of the hype surrounding LD comes from the grade, which I think will probably be downgraded anyways. Not to say that it’s not a great addition to the sport, but I don’t think it will stand the test of time like the Mandala, Dreamtime, TSOTW, or about a dozen other hard boulders.

  15. alex

    15. Mar, 2011

    I know that Shawn Diamond had been trying LD on just about every trip he’s taken to Bishop over the last 6 years, and he’s strong as hell!

  16. m

    15. Mar, 2011

    must admit I really disliked the video of the send posted on carlo’s blog. I found it crass, offensive, and totally clueless.
    props to carlo for having taken a clear stance on this, explained his reasons on ukb, and edited the video with only the actual sent. it really adds to an amazing effort and tick.

  17. underdog

    15. Mar, 2011

    And whatever happened to the thread about Gioia? It turned into an LD/P-rob thread in a matter of three posts… It seems everyone fails to acknowledge that Christian Core might have put up the worlds hardest boulder some years ago. Does it have to do with the fact that the boulder is located in a not very frequented area, together with the majority of U.S climbers not being familiar with the Core?? I have no idea, but there are certainly others out there that would be able to match woods/robinson both in terms of strength and climbing ability! Ever heard of Micky Page??? The guy has an absolutely AMAZING track-record to say the least, its definately up there with both Daniel and Paul. However he does not seek publicity or sponsorship. The same is true for several others.

  18. Mojo

    15. Mar, 2011

    @ Josh:

    I think I maybe posted twice in the past few days about LD?

    I recently had a chance to go climb in Bishop for the first time, and was impressed when I looked at this problem. I was merely hoping to convey the reasons I was impressed for the benefit of people who haven’t seen it and are curious.

    I replied to a post saying someone was “really close” because that type of statement is a pet peeve of mine. If you’re so close, then do it next time. Obviously it’s hard to tell how close Paul Robinson was actually getting on his tries in highly edited and stylized video footage. That’s why I said “looked like,” not “was.”

    I’m not sure why you have a problem with me saying how amazing I thought a boulder problem was. I like rock climbing. Maybe I should just talk about downgrading problems I’ve never climbed on instead?

  19. Mojo

    15. Mar, 2011

    Again @ Josh:

    Upon a second glance, I did say that Paul “was” close, not that he “looked” close. I guess I need to be more precise with my language. In any case, it should be obvious that highly edited footage should be taken with a grain of salt.

  20. peter

    19. Mar, 2011

    @anon-you are right. i am all over the place. need to get my head in the game of climbing medias. apologies all around.

    matt birch is a baller, has done some impressive stuff in cali.

    tim clifford did singularity, what, appearance wise, seems to be the hardest problem i’ve seen in person.

    in either case, both are impressive climbers without blogs.

  21. Zach

    19. Mar, 2011

    So Daniel decided to downgrade The Game on his scorecard to soft V15. He claimed the holds had grown from excessive brushing.

    Why does this seem to happen so often to hard end climbs in CO?

    Supposedly, the same thing might have happened to other hard climbs e.g. Ode to the Modern Man, maybe Jade.

    Here in the south, the use of anything other than boar hair brushes is frowned upon since we have so much sandstone.

    I know Western rock is not so fragile, but do you think it is about time climbers nationwide adopt more conservative brushing habits? At least with the higher end boulders where even the smallest amount of hold erosion can drastically affect the difficulty of the climb?

    Just wondered if you have any thoughts on the matter.

  22. DaveH

    19. Mar, 2011

    I think that a V16 at this time in history is still going to be a climb that cannot be repeated by the FAist. I think that a V16 today will be extremely difficult and very much luck and fluke that allows the FAist to get the crux, finish the problem, and be totally amazed. If Daniel could just repeat it like he did on a session out, that doesn’t seem like the bleeding edge.

  23. eric

    21. Mar, 2011

    I would like to hear from someone besides DW that says the holds have “grown.” Is he saying they grew from the FA until now, or from February when he repeated it until when Carlo sent it? I am sure other strong climbers have touched those holds during that period and can testify of the growth. Just playing devils advocate here. I find it hard to believe that granite can erode that quick with brushing. its not soft sandstone.

  24. DaveH

    21. Mar, 2011

    I find it strange that Daniel didn’t downgrade it after his repeat, but only after Carlo sent it.

  25. Zach

    21. Mar, 2011

    When he first repeated it, he used his original beta; he downgraded after using the “new method” that he says was impossible for him to use before.

  26. DaveH

    21. Mar, 2011

    @Zach – Ah, that makes it more clear. Thanks.

  27. eric

    22. Mar, 2011

    Zach – you are saying he repeated it twice. Is there anyone else saying holds grew?

  28. Zach

    22. Mar, 2011

    IDK. All I know is that he repeated it once w/ the same beta he used for the FA & then after Carlo’s repeat, he downgraded it on 8a … DW quote:

    “After returning back and using the new method, The Game felt to be more like a soft v15 than 16. A couple of the holds have seemed to of grown in size from brushing. This new method is different from what I did, so therefore it is a different boulder problem. Before, I could not use these holds since they were not as positive as they are now. Regardless, it is still an amazing boulder!”

  29. Narc

    22. Mar, 2011

    Yeah, Jamie do you have anything to add regarding the apparent fact that at least a few CO testpieces have had their holds enlarged due, presumably, to aggressive brushing? Seems strange given the type of rock in question.

  30. B3

    23. Mar, 2011

    It’s hard to say. These enlargements are not big, and it certainly could be debated whether or not they are happening at all. I am going to shoot photos of the holds on Hypnotized Minds the next time I am up there. I almost did the same for The Game and am now kicking myself for not having done so. With the feeding frenzy mentality that seems to exist here in Colorado, problems go from relative obscurity to gaining the attention of the masses. I think this added attention and subsequent brushing (not chipping) can make a difference, particulary in a place like Colorado, where problems are often difficult because the holds are so small. I think this downgrading would happen in other places, it’s just that there aren’t 5 V14 climbers lining up to repeat the newest hard line.

  31. Crafty

    23. Mar, 2011

    In regards to questions about brushing- I think it’s great to take a stand against chipping or wire brushing on established problems. That said, limiting the amount of brushing (with nylon or boars hair brushes) seems a bit excessive. If the holds are going to enlarge due to brushing with a soft brush, they they are likely to enlarge after a climber’s fingernails and fingertips touch the hold again and again. Might as well keep the holds clean and let what’s going to happen, happen. Just a thought.

  32. eric

    23. Mar, 2011

    Crafty – Take a nylon or boars hair brush and try to enlarge holds on granite. See how long it will take you. Its not desert sandstone.

  33. big poppa chosscrush

    25. Mar, 2011

    i heard the holds were chipped using a brush made of chuck norris’ hair. under a microscope, each hair is an active jackhammer with a split end creating a fork of diamond hardness like a serpent’s tongue

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