A New Project…

A New Project…

Posted on 26. Jan, 2011 by in News

Location: 5 minute drive from Denver, 20 minute hike
Climbers: Daniel Woods, David Graham, Chris Webb-Parsons, myself
Boulder Problem: Phantasia Project
Moves: 27
Style: sit down start, horizontal roof climbing, toe hooks, campus moves, 360 degree spin around, technical mantle
Holds: pinches, sidepulls, jugs, edges, two finger pocket
Estimated Grade: V14
Estimated Date of Project Completion: Friday

Daniel Woods nearly getting it done today…

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More to come.

34 Responses to “A New Project…”

  1. Kaelen W

    26. Jan, 2011

    rock: choss :)

  2. Jimmy Webb

    26. Jan, 2011

    Looks amazing Jamie! Going to be on the Front Range feb 8th-20th. We should go try this one!

  3. Me

    26. Jan, 2011

    Looks sah-weeeett

  4. Adam M

    26. Jan, 2011

    I love how you can still find problems like this randomly around CO. So freakin sweet.

    5 minutes from Denver?

    Wonder what’s 20 minutes away…

  5. Socrates Face

    26. Jan, 2011

    Your face is choss.

  6. J peterman

    26. Jan, 2011

    looks like the bambi boulder. right?

  7. polaropposite

    26. Jan, 2011

    How does something 27 moves long get a bouldering grade?

    My sport climbing project is 45′ tall, has 6 bolts and 28 moves

    It would not occur to me to give it a bouldering grade, it’s a route

    Nor would I give a 12′ tall boulder a route grade

    How hard would this project be if it was a route (which it is)

  8. B3

    26. Jan, 2011

    Shaken not Stirred is 27 moves, and it is the standard for the V12 grade.

  9. polaropposite

    26. Jan, 2011

    But bouldering grades are for cruxes…just like route grades are for the entire route, not the crux or individual sections…if you had to rope up for it because of the exposure, and clip bolts, you wouldn’t give it a bouldering grade, right?

  10. […] ce temps, des grimpeurs renouent avec leurs origines hippies, d’autres bourrinent dans un toit qui m’a l’air dément, et Guigui continue avec les montages de ses vacances à la maison (faudra que j’aille faire […]

  11. Powell

    26. Jan, 2011

    The Fly receives both a route and bouldering grade because of one bolt. There is Maizy Mae at Red River Groge which receives both as well, but most will clip two bolts for safety and take the bouldering grade. Anyway, the point is there is another difficult project close to “town” and you would be excited about this if you had already bouldered pretty much everything there was to climb on the front range. Keep up the good work!

  12. colin

    26. Jan, 2011

    seems to me like the old-school method of grading a route or boulder problem on the single hardest crux move is dead and has been for a long time. Good riddance, IMO. It’s better to grade the entire experience instead…but let’s not go too far and adopt E grades, for the love of gawd.

  13. sammy d

    26. Jan, 2011

    route grade? really. this discussion is about 20 years too late.

  14. michael rathke

    26. Jan, 2011

    let the people who send decide if they want to improperly grade a boulder problem or sport climb

  15. Danny B

    26. Jan, 2011

    Black and White photographs, PERFECT Jamie. I’m about three hours away. How would this boulder be found by a non local?

  16. polaropposite

    26. Jan, 2011

    What’s the hardest single move on Shaken Not Stirred? V7? V9?

  17. Pat

    27. Jan, 2011

    Danny,
    Mountain Project has good directions here:

    http://mountainproject.com/v/colorado/morrisonevergreen/matthewswinters_park/106035304

    Bambi/”Phantasia Project” are located in the Hillside Boulders section.

    Pat

  18. Danny B

    27. Jan, 2011

    Thank You, Pat. I will be excited to jump on this in a few weeks.

  19. big poppa chosscrush

    27. Jan, 2011

    yes, 20 years too late on this attempted digression…

    maybe it was samet who said it most simply…. something about how the crux move of doing 50 consecutive pullups is just 1 pullup, but doing 50 is obviously much harder.

  20. Socrates Face

    27. Jan, 2011

    polaropposite, you are perfectly right!

    If it’s tall, exposed, and needs bolts, then it should be a route!

    Let’s see… no.

    A few words of Wikidom for the unconvinced:
    “On a route suitable for sport climbing, pre-placed bolts follow a line UP a rock face. … [S]ome routes may have as few as three bolts, while other routes may have twenty-five or more …”

    Gunsmoke V2 is about 50 moves long. Count them.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urQ6OVhsxXM

    I think it was established around the beginning of the time that routes are taller than problems.

    Gunsmoke is NOT a route, because it is not tall enough, exposed enough, or dangerous enough to qualify for boltage.

    polaropposite, you seem to have the words “height” and “length” blownfused.

    nah nah nahnah nahhh,
    S. F.

  21. slabdyno

    27. Jan, 2011

    that looks cool

  22. slabdyno

    27. Jan, 2011

    what kind of rock?

  23. michael rathke

    28. Jan, 2011

    only sandstone can form roofs like that

  24. cardboard_dog

    28. Jan, 2011

    Is that Wagon Wheel? Holy epic assemblage of gumbies in that video.

  25. polaropposite

    30. Jan, 2011

    “Gunsmoke V2 is about 50 moves long. Count them.”

    V2’s the hardest move on Gunsmoke, and the whole thing is rated V2. Fantasia, the hardest move or section is V12, “direct power 8A+ into a feet first 7C+, finishing with the desperate 7C+ of Bambi.” So by your logic Fantasia is V12, the only way to rate the whole thing is to give it a route grade.

  26. […] Daniel Woods has notched another potential V14 in his proverbial belt with the FA of Fantasia at Denver’s Matthews/Winters Park.  Clocking in at 27 moves, Fantasia adds a long series of moves in the V12 range into the end of the existing problem Bambi (V12) according to the entry on Woods’ 8a.nu scorecard.  A few pictures of Woods working the problem can be seen here. […]

  27. Davin

    31. Jan, 2011

    Sandstone is not the only rock that can form a roof like Fantasia. Gneiss, Granite and Quartzite can do the same. Up here in Wyoming we have 27 move and longer problems on similar boulders.

  28. michael rathke

    31. Jan, 2011

    we get roofs with many types of rock but the rock wont be formed and shaped the same.

  29. big poppa chosscrush

    31. Jan, 2011

    DAVIN: PHOTOS NOW OR DEATH!

  30. Chris Webb Parsons

    31. Jan, 2011

    Video of Daniel doing the FA coming soon

  31. Davin

    31. Jan, 2011

    Big poppa chosscrush,

    Click my name and behold the link. Look through the older posts and the rest you will have to see with your own eyes.

  32. michael rathke

    01. Feb, 2011

    What I’m saying is that it is obviously sandstone

  33. Kaelen W

    01. Feb, 2011

    It is fountain formation sandstone, i.e. the same rock as eldo, the flatirons, and flagstaff. I haven’t checked out the rock on fantasia, but I have tried bambi and thought it was one of the chossiest problems on the front range. Maybe fantasia is better rock, but I kind of doubt it.

  34. michaelrathke

    01. Feb, 2011

    so basically after a bunch of people climb on fantasia its going to be bombproof like the rest of the fountain sandstone?

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