Posted on 24. Jan, 2011 by in News

Friday I ventured to The Scoop Area, near Horsetooth Reservoir, to try Ian Dory’s wonderful new problem Doxology V12. Brian Capps made the second ascent a few days ago, Dave Graham the 3rd, and Brian Camp followed suit. I had split my tip on the first day and this was hampering my efforts on the second when I split it again. Friday was my 3rd day of attempts and I split it again, however after 20 or 30 subtle changes in my beta, I made the big move out left and hung on to finish the problem, not long after Daniel Woods. Doxology is not only a great line, but the rock is good and the movement some of the most interesting and unique I have ever encountered on a problem. The crux revolves around a huge move off of surprisingly good holds. What makes the move even more interesting is that the jump is off of two huge feet. Grading a problem of such subtly is difficult. I think this problem will hold status as a test piece of the Ft. Collins area due to its high quality and technical movement, regardless of where the consensus settles.
The Scoop V4, which is just left, is a unique classic moderate in its own right, and very worthwhile. It has been somewhat cold and snowy lately in Boulder, but Horsetooth remains a great place to climb during the winter. Thanks to Jeff Sillcox for these great photos of me and Daniel.

DSC_0210Daniel Woods sends Doxology

DSC_0217 Daniel Woods

DSC_0226 Setting up for the big move.

DSC_0205 Making the big move, Doxology.

Good times with a good crew! I am trying to repeat several local problems in preparation for a bunch of new projects and Doxology was the first to go down.

And if you happen to be wondering about how things are up at Lincoln Lake, here is the weather report…

The forecast for Lincoln Lake:
This Afternoon: Snow and areas of blowing snow. High near 17. Wind chill values as low as -21. Windy, with a west northwest wind between 37 and 40 mph, with gusts as high as 60 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. Total daytime snow accumulation of 3 to 5 inches possible.

Tonight: Snow and areas of blowing snow before 11pm, then snow likely and areas of blowing snow after 11pm. Low around -1. Wind chill values as low as -22. Windy, with a northwest wind 29 to 32 mph decreasing to between 18 and 21 mph. Winds could gust as high as 45 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.

13 Responses to “Horsetooth”

  1. tom

    24. Jan, 2011

    any chance for a another lincoln lake recap?

  2. Nietzsche

    24. Jan, 2011

    Isn’t there another V9-11 that is squeezed between the Scoop and Doxology. I remember Scott Cory doing a line there (and think it had been done before). Maybe it was called Half Moon? Any info would be great.

  3. B3

    25. Jan, 2011

    The problem you’re referencing is called Retard Sandwich. I think it is contrived, and I think it is V8. I think Brian Camp could provide better info as I haven’t tried it.

  4. Name (required)

    25. Jan, 2011

    was the climb to the right of pinch overhang chipped big time? looks like the big undercling/sidepull was pryed off by some sort of bar… it looks like there is a line of marks left by some sort of two pronged bar??

  5. Brian Camp

    25. Jan, 2011

    No I used a rock to break it off, no pry bar. There are no marks on the boulder. It was loose and chossy. Please leave your name if you are trying to say something otherwise keep your opinion to yourself.,

  6. Name (required)

    25. Jan, 2011

    Brian. Reading what I wrote, I realize that came out quite wrong. I heard about the climb recently being established on the mental block and was eager to check it out! Yesterday while at Rotary someone else mentioned that they thought they saw what looked like marks around where the hold I mentioned is. I was suprised, but mostly doubtful and so I went to look at it first hand. I too saw what looked like marks in a uniform pattern, and admit that it could have certainly been from who knows what.. I didnt mean to persecute anyone but was merely surprised by this and wondered if what was up. I didnt leave my name because I felt its irrelevent. I don’t know anyone who are doing these boulder problems. I’m simply a fan of this site and the discussion that it welcomes.

  7. michael rathke

    25. Jan, 2011

    AHHHh yes, the dakota group :-P,,,,,

    here is some more eye candy for ya’ll
    ionia sandstone

  8. […] Friday, Daniel Woods went up to Fort Collins, CO’s Horsetooth Reservoir and repeated a few hard problems including Ian Dory’s new classic Doxology (V12).  The following day he showed up at The Spot […]

  9. Praxeology

    26. Jan, 2011

    Interesting name for a problem, “Doxology”. Wonder where he got the inspiration for the name?

  10. James Hickey

    26. Jan, 2011

    the study of religeon….mr ian dory is a little religeous! either way this and his new problem are of great quality and are Hard

  11. B3

    26. Jan, 2011

    James, that definition is incorrect.

  12. B3

    26. Jan, 2011

  13. […] Friday, Daniel Woods went up to Fort Collins, CO’s Horsetooth Reservoir and repeated a few hard problems including Ian Dory’s new classic Doxology (V12).  The following day he showed up at The Spot […]

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