Horsetooth Reservoir

Horsetooth Reservoir

Posted on 12. Jan, 2011 by in News

This winter there has been a new psyche building in Ft. Collins and several nice new problems have been climbed as a result. Brian Camp, Ian Dory, James Hickey, and Paul Dusatko have lead the way. As the weather has been snowy and cold lately, the local climbers there have turned their attention once again to the wonderful sandstone at Horsetooth Reservoir. One of the first new problems climbed was a sitdown start to the Right Eliminator, Rotary. This problem starts on the right side of the arete, with a good left hand sidepull and a low right hand sloping sidepull. Three tenuous moves lead to a sloping right hand and a difficult move out to the arete. The climber then finishes up around the corner on R. Eliminator. From the start, this is the line of least resistance and a very nice addition by Brian Camp. I went up on Sat and made an ascent of R. Eliminator SDS V11. Ian Dory climbed a hard variation, which starts in a slightly different place, crouched, and climbed this into Moon Arete, calling it Sitting Moon. I think the locals are calling this one V12. The second ascentionist, Dustin Saunders, starting sitting where Camp did. Very well done.
Ian also added two other new problems. The first is a V10 called The Chronic, which is across the street from the Piano Boulders, and the second is a gorgeous bulging wall at The Scoop Area. Ian named the problem Doxology V12, and this is one of the best new problems in the Front Range. Here is uncut footage of the FA.

Doxology First Ascent! from james hickey on Vimeo.

We hiked down afterwards and check it out, and it looks exceptional. Very psyched to get back and put some effort into that one.

13 Responses to “Horsetooth Reservoir”

  1. James Hickey

    12. Jan, 2011

    Jamie! Nice Post! Glad to see you made it down to the Fort. Nice effort on Campers Line. Next time your up in the area and want to try Sitting Moon, The Chronic or Doxology hit me up….I would love to boulder on these classics with you.

  2. Danny B

    12. Jan, 2011

    How might I be able to find this area, If I drove into Fort Collins and hit up a climbing shop would they know the areas well?

  3. B3

    12. Jan, 2011

    I put links to the areas from Mountainproject.com in the post.

  4. James Hickey

    12. Jan, 2011

    Danny B, if interested in the Bud Boulder where the Chronic V10, Jack Flash V5 and Mothers Finest V8 are at, stop in at Inner Strength Rock Gym, ask for me and I would love to show people these great climbs. also check out http://www.firetherig.com for a nice video by Paul Duskato featuing the Bud Boulder and some other classics. Enjoy!

  5. michael rathke

    12. Jan, 2011

    surprised about the new sds’s on those popular climbs

  6. Jay

    13. Jan, 2011

    Good to see that line finally get sent (doxology). Chris Way and I climbed on that 10 or 12 years ago, and though we never did it, we did link up moves. It seemed futuristic at the time as we were probably climbing in the V8-9 range. I don’t recall if we ever did the big move out left, but the movement is great and on some of the best sandstone on the Front Range. I remember one local being pissed that I had cut down some of the bushes that were growing up between the cliff and the boulder that sits beneath the problem. Ah, the good old days…
    Anyway, awesome job Ian! Certainly this is a line to be proud of.
    On a side note, if you walk around the corner to the left, past the scoop, you will see a huge arete. Chris climbed what I am assuming was the first ascent of that (at least w/o a rope) about that time as well. I know Mike Call filmed it for The High Life video, as he was visiting, but I don’t think it made the final cut. As far as I know it has only seen one repeat…
    The Scoop area is small, but has a few super high quality problems.

  7. B3

    13. Jan, 2011

    Thanks for the input Shambo!

  8. james hickey

    13. Jan, 2011

    That arete has seen a bunch of repeats now, just highball it is, not too hard I know of three of my friends doing it

  9. Jeremiah Dunn

    14. Jan, 2011

    Hey im actually moving to Fort Collins at the begging of summer and I’m trying to connect with some climbers down there.lol so whats up

  10. michael rathke

    14. Jan, 2011

    probly hager, saunders and who else?

  11. James Hickey

    14. Jan, 2011

    ACTUALLY FOR THE ARETE, JOSH MITCHELL I KNOW HAS DONE IT, MY BUDDY AARON RAMRAS HAS DONE IT, AND OTHERS I THINK AARON TOLD ME HE THOUGHT IT WAS V2 AND ONE OF THE BEST AT THE GRADE AND HEIGHT HE HAS DONE….

  12. James Hickey

    14. Jan, 2011

    For Fort Collins climbing beta, stop in at Inner Strength Rock Gym (970-282-8118) to meet people and get beta to go to all the amazing outdoor climbing we have within an hour of us!!!!!!

  13. michael rathke

    15. Jan, 2011

    gonna hit up that gym next month with my climbing partner-dude bro balances on tiny foot holds like what?!!

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