Mt. Evans

Posted on 30. Sep, 2010 by B3 in News

This weekend is the final weekend the road is open to Wolverineland. Oddly, it’s been unseasonably warm here in Boulder and in the boulders around Lincoln Lake. I have had a few days up there recently, but it’s always been too warm to put any serious attempts at anything difficult. Sunday I managed the outrageous dyno Purple is Not a Color (given V10 although as Rob Guinn said, “This could be anywhere from V7 to V13). I had tried this earlier in the year, but those attempts were lackluster. After about 10 attempts or so I didn’t feel like I was very close to holding the swing. I took a ten minute break and spent most of the time thinking about why I wasn’t succeeding and on my next attempt, after making a significant adjustment based on the conclusions I had reached in my head, I sent the dyno. I made adjustments in the way a sagged before launching and the position of my body once I reached the hold and the bend in my arms. Not only does this have possibly the coolest starting hold in the state, but one of the most ridiculous moves I have performed on rock. A great problem, and it was an even greater session with Brian Capps (who also did the problem) and Rob Guinn. I also climbed Rebellion V9, which is a great tall problem in the midst of the talus. I’ve been trying to clean up some of the easier problems here before my attention is forced back to Chaos Canyon.

Jason Pinto on Walk the Line V1, a Dave Graham FA

Angie Payne attempts Rebellion V9

Matt Battaglia draws a crowd of onlookers as he tops out The Red Herring V6

Nic O. on Walk the Line V1

Brian Camp sends Phobos V11

Mountain Goat on the tundra.

8 Responses to “Mt. Evans”

Lee

30. Sep, 2010

That goat shot is insane!
mervo

30. Sep, 2010

is that rock fall in the background of the goat?? what the heck?
campusman

30. Sep, 2010

I am changing the name of the problem to

The color purple is not a primary color v7/13
sammy d.

30. Sep, 2010

I don’t get it. Where are all the wolverines?
B3

30. Sep, 2010

I think Chad said he saw one. But they are just bebes.
campusmang

01. Oct, 2010

I know this isnt my place but I figured this was a good place to show my personal thoughts on something off topic.

A comparison of three popular brands of climbing shoes in the US.

Five Ten- best rubber
La Sportiva- best feel
Evolv – best rock climbing shoes Ive ever climbed in, the feel is great, the rubber is great.

What would be cool to see (and I know most companies are basically going to want to do this as things keep doing what they are doing) is some shoes with the ultra sticky rubber that feel great and you can easily climb the best in hands down.
pinto

01. Oct, 2010

i agree with Lee. the mountain goat shot is muy bueno.
Danny B

01. Oct, 2010

Stellar photo of the MG, I can’t wait to make it to the new boulder problems up there, I’m working my way up slowly from Chaos Canyon.