News

Posted on 12. Sep, 2010 by B3 in News

Last week a number of hard problems were repeated around the world. Most notably, Paul Robinson made the second ascent of Fred Nicole’s Monkey Wedding in South Africa. Fred graded it V14 and after 8 years and a number of attempts by strong climbers, it seems Paul is suggesting V15. Daniel Woods tried and failed a few years ago and it seemed to think it could be V15 as well. Monkey Wedding is at the Roadside Area of Rocklands. Here is a link to the uncut footage!

Great to see people acknowledging how cool it is to see the complete ascent and a good effort by Paul!

27 Responses to “News”

Nietzsche

13. Sep, 2010

Jamie,
May I just be the first to say that I am sick and tired of all your Paul praising. I mean really all we ever hear about is Paul, Paul, Paul. Paul climbed this boulder. Paul traveled here. Really. I would just like to say that I think Daniel deserves a little bit more attention than he’s getting from you. I mean your bias is so obvious! Just admit you don’t like Daniel and get on with it.
andy

13. Sep, 2010

do you know if freds oliphants dawn also in the rocklands has been repeated?
CJS

13. Sep, 2010

How’s that for unprecedented? An upgrade of a V14!
Dan C

13. Sep, 2010

To counterpoint our friend “nietzsche” This is simply a news worthy ascent and major props to Paul for the 2nd ascent of this classic and thanks to Jamie for helping spread the word.

As to a Paul bais… I’ve not counted or anything but I’m pretty sure Daniel is mentioned a heck of a lot more in recent blog posts due to his ridiculous sending and FAing in wolverine land. Both really strong young dudes and its interesting to hear what they are up to. Either way this is a blog run by an individual. He can share whatever he wants and be a baised as he feels (not that I’ve noticed you are Jamie).

Jamie as winter sets in on Wolverine Land its just getting to be about right here in PA. Lots of classic lines and projects for your V10 project.
Chris

13. Sep, 2010

hahaha!
hmmm...

13. Sep, 2010

i dislike them both,damn kids.
greasy enchiladas

13. Sep, 2010

Did someone leave a faucet on? Because it sounds like dribble to me…
colin

13. Sep, 2010

Wasn’t the story of two worlds also “anonymously upgraded”?
B3

14. Sep, 2010

I think Oliphants Dawn remains unrepeated.
cardboard_dog

14. Sep, 2010

I think nothing remains unrepeated here in PA. Because I live in PA.

Booyah.
Adam M

14. Sep, 2010

@ Dan C I think you missed it bud.

Oliphants hadn’t been repeated when I went to look at it with Paul a month ago. Need some beta on the start though…little tough to decipher.

C-Dog: Char, Zig, and Cody climbed it all by the time I came around with the Boat Shoes and Doc Martins.
Philip

14. Sep, 2010

For Dan C: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarcasm
Alfonso

14. Sep, 2010

PA?
Char

14. Sep, 2010

@ Adam – You’re both too modest and too generous with your description!

I’ll bet Oliphant’s Dawn is still unrepeated because of the non aesthetics of the line more so than its difficulty. It is extremely tweaky and unobvious in my opinion, especially when compared to the other outstanding problems of similar difficulty. This seems to be a problem that’s had its grade drift upward because of a lack of a repeat. It was originally graded v13 and now can be found as v14 or even 15.
Ben

14. Sep, 2010

looks like Nietzsche has a crush on Dwoods
Adam M

15. Sep, 2010

Char: Exactly. Problem didn’t seem to be v14 or 15, but was a little weird to figure out. Very strange first moves (bad feet too) but aesthetics def. was what I thought as well.

Ben: Everyone has a crush on DW.

Alfonso; Pennsylvania.
JP

16. Sep, 2010

define “semi-static”.
Justin

16. Sep, 2010

yeah… I mean, I hate it when boulders require more than pulling straight down on flat holds…that’s just like… weird and stuff, why bother.
campusman

16. Sep, 2010

there is a troll meeting at crumblewood
if you are a troll, you’re invited
GTFO
cardboard_dog

17. Sep, 2010

@ Adam .. we both know Char is a spook .. a legend. He doesn’t really exist. Like Kaiser Soze. He leaves a wisp of chalk on your unsent project and like that .. poof .. hes gone.

haha. Char you rock.
andrew shipley

17. Sep, 2010

hey i really like your blog i would love it if you posted to this site http://www.climbersconnect.com they are all climbers so they would love it!
thanks
Andrew: site admin
campusman

18. Sep, 2010

@B3

KEEP SENDING
olifant

18. Sep, 2010

woooot? olifants dawn not an asthetic line? thats one of the most beautiful boulders i’ve seen…!
the climbing might be a bit oldschool though (tiny sharp holds and very little feet) and maybe not as fun as something more overhanging…
campusman

19. Sep, 2010

kuhkaw
jayde

19. Sep, 2010

jamie, do you have a girlfriend?
B3

20. Sep, 2010

No, I am currently single.
Adam M

20. Sep, 2010

you can call me anytime Emerson.