Mt. Evans

Posted on 05. Sep, 2010 by in News

Friday I went to Lincoln Lake and had a great day. I climbed my project Evil Backwards V14 after perhaps 10-12 days of effort. I think this is the hardest problem I have ever climbed and it’s nice to accomplish something after so much time, effort and thought. Wolverineland continues to be an amazing source of motivation and I will have more updates in the coming week on all of the action. Thanks to Brian Capps for bringing this and filming. Here is uncut footage of the send.

Evil Backwards V14 from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

After a long session on Monday I was quite sore and thought it would be wise to take a the next few days off. It’s a great feeling to have an awesome project in a beautiful area, feel well rested and to have good conditions. All of the factors came together on Friday. I hiked in with Brian and got warmed up. To give you some insight as to what goes on for me to climb something at my limit I will share some of the thinking process.

IMG_8150 Organizing the near infinite options underneath Evil Backwards.

I had been going back and forth about a very minute but important piece of beta. The third move of the problem is the move many consider the crux. It is very similar to the move on Crown of Aragorn, but for me it is a much harder version. I figured out the easiest way for me to do the move was with a heel, and the best heel for the job was the Anasazi Velcro. The next two moves are very hard tension moves which set the climber up for a difficult foot cut. Unfortunately, the foot-cut was much easier from the toe than the heel. Because the move out left was so much easier with a heel, and I could do the foot-cut off the heel, I tried this beta for a few days, getting close and then closer. It never really felt consistent and when I am figuring out beta I will typically look for the most consistent method, even if it is more powerful. My heel kept popping off on Friday and I decided to take a new approach. I thought about it long and hard and came up with several new ideas on how to make it happen. I worked through each one, using minimal effort and trying to rely on my experience to tell me which seemed most likely to work. Finally, I came upon a solution that worked. I would use The Dragon heel, which made the move out left harder (but not as hard as with the toe), and then flip the heel to a toe. This flip was difficult, but it seemed that once I got the heel flipped, I had a good chance to get to the end. I gave it a few goes and it seemed close. My confidence built and I felt the send was coming. I brushed the holds, arranged the pads to make sure there was little chance of dabbing and set off. Everything felt good, which really gave me the opportunity to try hard. I tensioned very hard with my right foot, barely stuck the sloper and reeled in the swing.

I think Evil Backwards breaks down into a hard V13, to a flat, matchable full pad crimp, into a V9, which I think could make it V14, although it is certainly on the lower end of the scale if it is. I know that Dave fell off the end at least once. I had dialed in the end fairly well and have reached a point in my climbing where I know the best thing to do at this point is simply stop thinking. I quickly climbed up to the top, teetered for a moment when I almost messed up the easy mantle, and then stood on top. It was a great feeling! I am really psyched to have put down such an amazing steep boulder, at my limit. I feel strongly that this was a success of the body, but also a huge success of the mind. I am happiest in life when I have complex problems (both on and off the rock) to solve in a constructive way and climbing Evil Backwards provided that. It was a great moment for me and really opens up the rest of the year at Wolverineland for just about anything, including more first ascents…

IMG_8165
Capps attempts Honey Badger V11
IMG_8170

Brian and I walked just up the hill afterwards and I made the first ascent of a great power endurance problem I have tried a few days which I am calling Honey Badger V11. It was unexpected and I sent it in the fading light. It was another great day in the life of a Colorado boulderer!

45 Responses to “Mt. Evans”

  1. Kaelen W

    05. Sep, 2010

    Nice uncut vid!

  2. Edwin

    05. Sep, 2010

    That’s some of the most inspiring bouldering footage I’ve ever seen! Psyched for your fight. Good to have that fresh in my mind as good temps arrive in Little Cottonwood tomorrow!

  3. Zach

    05. Sep, 2010

    Sweet!

  4. joeyjoejoe

    06. Sep, 2010

    Congrats!

  5. joeyjoejoe

    06. Sep, 2010

    Oh, and thanks for all your very thoughtful remarks about your process! I think this is the most beautiful of the new projects up in Lincoln Lake I’ve seen video of.

  6. mk

    06. Sep, 2010

    2 big macs for four dollars!! who could imagine a better way to celebrate!?

  7. suck

    06. Sep, 2010

    “Dare I say it? Having seen (Evil Backwards) I was not impressed. The rock is good, but it’s low and contrived. It’s certainly hard.” – way to ripe on one “low contrived problem” just to find self gratification in another.

    “I think could make it V14, although it is certainly on the lower end of the scale if it is.” – man you are really fighting the good fight on the grade inflation you are so worried about…

  8. CJS

    06. Sep, 2010

    I’m psyched for you, JE! Great work! Certainly very, very inspiring!

  9. Justin

    06. Sep, 2010

    nice work Jamie, congrats!

  10. Rudi

    06. Sep, 2010

    Great job and super post!!!

  11. B3

    06. Sep, 2010

    thanks everyone! to the anonymous person who had negative things to say
    A) Evil Backwards is not contrived
    B) I really like the style and I do think it’s amazing. We have a difference of opinion.
    C) Just like any boulder problem, it could get downrated, but I was just giving my opinion. It doesn’t matter if it gets downrated anyways, I tried really hard and it was a nice moment for me.
    D) Anon. attacks are difficult to respond to. I always write my name, in the future it’d be nice if you wrote yours.

  12. mervo

    06. Sep, 2010

    nice jorb jemerson! super inspiring to see all your hard werk pay off!!!! keep crushin.

  13. abraham lincoln

    06. Sep, 2010

    It does look contrived because your butt is so close to the ground…also just because someone posts using a name, it might not be their real name, so who cares whether it’s “anonymous” or not

  14. B3

    06. Sep, 2010

    Whether or not something is a contrivance has nothing to do with how low the problem is off the ground. On EB you start on the jug and climb the easiest way out. The is the definition of something not being contrived.
    I’d just like to know who I am talking to and I always post under my name.

  15. Jerry Seinfeld

    06. Sep, 2010

    Contrivance is eliminating holds/features within reach. The ground is within easy reach for most of the problem. You are choosing not to use it. What is more contrived than that?

  16. CJS

    06. Sep, 2010

    I would disagree that it looks contrived.

    I would agree that it seems relatively lowball. You “arranged the pads so there would be little chance of dabbing” – not always a concern on taller boulders.

    That being said, I’m from Rhode Island and everything is a contrived lowball in LIncoln Woods, so what do I care? If the movement is inspiring and the psych is high, I wish you all the best in the world.

    It seems like you pushed your personal standards, contributed to a burgeoning world-class bouldering area, and had a great time with your friends. Don’t let Abe Lincoln get you down.

  17. TimS

    06. Sep, 2010

    Great work Jamie, truly inspirational!

  18. max

    06. Sep, 2010

    Sick Jamie! Crushin’ it man!

  19. joeyjoejoe

    06. Sep, 2010

    To clarify, with “beautiful” I am referring to the sequence and body positions/movement. The setting of the boulder itself isn’t very aesthetically pleasing, but, as a boulder problem, it seems incredible: the long right leg/toe extension, the tense crimper/sloper cut-feet swing, the hand bumps on the climb up out of the cave… all very fun to watch and, I’m sure, very fun to climb.

  20. Dan

    06. Sep, 2010

    Don’t worry about them B3, haters gonna hate. Truly epic send by the way.

  21. troll

    06. Sep, 2010

    campusman, did you really send dyno direct despondency?
    i want some footage

  22. campusman

    06. Sep, 2010

  23. campusman

    06. Sep, 2010

  24. Nick

    06. Sep, 2010

    It seems like you are going to have to make a post of bouldering vocabulary terms.

  25. g

    06. Sep, 2010

    sweeeeet heel-toe switch!

  26. Pat

    06. Sep, 2010

    Having also seen it, its most definitely NOT contrived. There is only one way out of the roof.

  27. greasy enchiladas

    06. Sep, 2010

    Nice job Jamie – even more impressive when you throw the altitude factor in there.

  28. lame

    07. Sep, 2010

    thats looks stupid.spray spray i climbed v14 wow im so cool,ima post it on my website. this is a good example of bigheadedness,and yes jamie u have a large head.and i already did that problem years back and i called it v9 and i have witnesses who saw it, knowing u u wont believe me but who cares?

  29. B3

    07. Sep, 2010

    First of all, THANK YOU to everyone who had nice things to say. I am very thankful of your kind words!
    Secondly, this is how I would define contrived, since there seems to some issue. Bouldering is contrived, because we could always just walk up the easiest side of the boulder to the top. Since basically every problem is contrived based on that definition, we understand that nothing is contrived, and we call bouldering a sport or activity. We choose to start in a defined place (where the FAist started) and from this defined start one would ask “Does the problem take the path of least resistance?” If the answer is yes (which in the case of Evil Backwards it is) then the problem is not contrived. If the answer is no, and it some how diverges into more forced difficulty, then it would qualify as a contrivance. Examples of popular contrivances in Colorado are The Centaur, Super Gui, and Trice. Sometimes it is an obvious divergence of lines (e.g. The Automator, where as starting in the same place Tommy’s Arete is the easiest way up) sometimes it simply off routes holds (e.g. Pop goes the Weasel at Morrison)
    I don’t mind people questioning what I have done, and they have the freedom to say whatever they think about the problem.

  30. abe

    07. Sep, 2010

    Nice Jame . . . !!!
    looks like some of that
    gym training / intense-campusing
    paid off .

    So what’s next ? ? ?

  31. Blake B.

    07. Sep, 2010

    Damn dude! Crushing much? Super sick and inspiring send….

  32. Shawn Seifert

    07. Sep, 2010

    Great job! Keep pushing your limits until you realize there are none.

  33. Philip

    07. Sep, 2010

    Nice send! Such a great feeling to top something out after so many days of effort, and also to reach a new level. Congrats!

  34. sock hands

    07. Sep, 2010

    as much fun as it is to give jamie a hard time in person (u bitches should try it, but the price of admission is to lend a pad and to actually climb a bit), calling foul on him being psyched regarding a personal best on his own website is beyond incomprehensible.

    don’t be ignorat to the shifting paradigm of spray. in this internet age, spray is not reporting to friends and *willing visitors.* spray is sending pre-packaged self-aggrandizement to third parties for publication and talking loudly at the gym about your supar sikk proj, dood.

    reflect for a spell on reality and you will realize that is not the case here.

    wise up and keep your jemerface mockery to the stones like we do.

    otherwise, your shit’s weak.

  35. Mike Bockino

    08. Sep, 2010

    I agree with Mr. Sockhands on this one.

    It is pretty pathetic to see people personally insulting Jamie when he just accomplished a milestone. HELL YEAH! You just climbed a V14 and don’t for one second let stupid shit and ridiculous comments phase your psyche.

    I have been to Lincoln Lake and seen Evil Backwards. It is not contrived and it it is low to the ground so #$%$#ing be it. get some core strength and keep your feet off the rocks.

    there aren’t THAT many climbers out there and sooner or later the haters will have nobody to climb with.

    Props to you Jamie for working that thing and staying with it.

  36. kevin

    08. Sep, 2010

    Nice work Jamie and well said JJ.

  37. B3

    08. Sep, 2010

    thanks guys! I appreciate your support!

  38. Crafty

    08. Sep, 2010

    Evil Backwards: If you’ve seen it in person, you’d recognize that it’s pretty fucking sick. Nice work Jemerson!

  39. Crafty

    08. Sep, 2010

    What did you get at McDonalds?

  40. kid from bama

    09. Sep, 2010

    Just want to say thanks to you and Brian witnessing a send like that is motivation for years to come. Also thanks for showing me around and pointing out moderates. I was definitely lost out there trying to find climbs in my range. i hope those blizzards/frosty things were tasty. Thanks again

  41. Shawn Seifert

    09. Sep, 2010

    Great video, Jaime. Can you make all your videos mobile compatible? I can watch Evil backwards on my phone but not honey badger. Sweet stuff.

  42. cardboard dawg face

    09. Sep, 2010

    Jamie if u weren’t such a beligerant and rampant downgrader you’d have 2 v14’s on the tick list. you’re only hurting yourself man! the world only rewards big number sends. my only words of wisdom. and nice job!

  43. Edwin

    16. Sep, 2010

    How many stars would you give EB? Anything in the area warrant the big 5?

  44. B3

    16. Sep, 2010

    I would give Evil Backwards 2 stars. It has a somewhat inobvious start, it’s low to the ground it’s not contrived. the rock is very good, the landing is a little weird. I don’t think that 5 star problems really exist, or they exist only in theory, so no. There may be a four star problem there.

  45. Pointer Men's Basketball

    30. Oct, 2010

    Best you should edit the blog subject
    Mt. Evans | B3bouldering.com to something more suited for your content you write. I enjoyed the blog post yet.

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