Lincoln Lake

Posted on 11. Aug, 2010 by in News

Dave Graham has climbed the FA of a very amazing line at Lincoln Lake. I think he will suggest V14. This is very much Dave’s style, with a very hard toe hook move and a huge reach to a terrible sloper. Here is a photo from a few days ago when we worked out some of the initial moves. No word yet on a name, but this is the 4th problem suggested to be V14 in the area, and a classic one at that. Nice effort!

8 Responses to “Lincoln Lake”

  1. Rocco

    12. Aug, 2010

    Just wondering, how many problems V8 and under have you guys come across?

  2. sock hands

    12. Aug, 2010

    all problems less than 12 were chiseled down to be 12 or harder.

    it was a massacre. i call for justice. i call for blood. are you with me, rocco?

    heads will roll.

    but not very far, i guess, because it’s talus and stuff can’t really roll very far without getting stuck.


  3. Nietzsche

    13. Aug, 2010

    This might be a starting list. I am sure that others know more about that problems here than me.

    The Idiot V5/6
    Bull Run V6
    Liquid Peanut Butter V7
    The Powder Keg V7
    Locust Lawn V7
    For Columbine Full V7
    Chalk on Rock V7/8
    Hidden Gem V8
    Cloak of the Tiger V8
    The Fin Thing V8
    Northern Aggression V8
    Rebellion V8/9
    Tangerine Man V8/9
    Bloody Lineage V8/10

    From my (limited) experience at Lincoln I would say that there are more and higher quality problems in the V5-8 range than say Chaos Canyon or any of the areas at Evans although the rock is much sharper and the movement tends to be more powerful (due to the lack of feet).

  4. Rocco

    16. Aug, 2010

    Sick, thanks for the info. I was thinking about taking a trip with some friends to do some climbing in CO soon, but most of them aren’t climbing V12. I wanted to check out the Lincoln Lake area, but I have been hearing a lot about all the hard stuff with no mention of the availability of easier things. I’m not going to go somewhere with them where they’ll wind up sitting around watching me climb all day, and besides, I don’t really want to spend a trip climbing only on double digit stuff either. I much prefer the classic moderates over trying hard.

  5. John

    16. Aug, 2010

    @ Rocco, remember who is putting up these problems! I bet theses guys are only looking for 8ish and harder, so I am sure there is a ton of easier stuff to be done, you just have to clean it, figure out the beta, and send. Jamie please correct me if I’m wrong.


  6. B3

    16. Aug, 2010

    We climb easy stuff too! We love putting up problems, and climbing in general!

  7. sock hands

    16. Aug, 2010

    siafu: v5-6
    emancipation left: v0
    emancipation right: v4
    fer frodo?? v7ish
    drolet’s problem: v7ish
    left of drolet’s problem: v2ish
    steep grades and sharp curves: classic v5
    the anvil: v8
    evo’s roof: v7
    dark overlord grim: v7
    the white whale: v6ish
    random # 1 – 101: v-moderate, each
    random # 102 – 214: v-easy, each
    random 8Bs: INVALID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  8. Pat

    17. Aug, 2010

    I’d agree that there are more moderate, attainable problems at Lincoln Lake than any of the other alpine spots. Everywhere you go there seems to be a good mix of difficulties. For example, For Irie is probably one of the best problems I’ve done there, and its quite doable. I think the number I heard attached to it was V5 or something around there. Literally on the same boulder, is The Exfoliator, one of the harder climbs in the area. Maybe 15 feet away is a really good looking moderate problem called Fragile Tension.

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