Defining a Problem, continued.

Posted on 28. Jul, 2010 by in News

Last week Paul Robinson reclimbed Black Eagle in Rocklands after several holds had broken. A good effort on Paul’s part and this is a very nice wall and I am certain what Paul did is really worthy. Paul seems to suggest a renaming of the problem to “Bleagle.” This brings back the idea of “how do we define what it is we are doing?”, and its importance to bouldering. If a significant amount of the rock or holds on a problem breaks, is it appropriate to rename that section of rock? If “Bleagle ” were to break again, and say for example Fred Nicole came along, would he earn the right to re-re-name it back to Black Eagle if he re-re-climbed it, or should he call it something totally different? Or Is it logical to keep the name given by the first ascentionist of the line that was climbed? Anyways, this is a great practical example of how these kinds of things come into play, especially when a climber makes a claim about having done something new or different.

63 Responses to “Defining a Problem, continued.”

  1. Jill

    05. Aug, 2010

    A discussion is not to be confused with putting someone on trial or ‘mobbin’ as is suggested above. It is up to the reader to be intellegent enough to see through any false sentiments or speculations.

    Being a professional in any profession or sport means you are going to be a role model for others and should be aware that whatever you say or choose to publish will be taken serious and may be criticised by others, looking up to your achievements.

    Personally I think a reaction like the one from Adam M shows a lack of insight on how much impact a statement made by one of the leading figures in the bouldering scene makes.
    It is that kind of immature reaction which fuels the fire in many of the internet ‘contoversies’.

  2. Adam M

    05. Aug, 2010

    HA! The mob down here has guns though. Or they are baboons (literally and metaphorically.)

    I hear ya though, and i’m no where near the mob. Just like the anonymous genius named “ME” is no where near this place, or he never would have called P-Rob a stupid kid to his face around the campfire.

    BTW, I repeated the problem and called it Black Eagle again, so it’s all good in the village again. 😉

  3. me

    06. Aug, 2010

    all you pepole are retards…and yes i would call him out he is a stupid little rich kid,who has and never will know what its like to work 50+ hours a week,support a family,and still get out to crush rock,and i think he did mean to rename freds problem but got a reality check from the “mob”….so suck on that

  4. Climbing Islove

    06. Aug, 2010

    Howdy Sheriff. There are two different stories here, and your conjecture contradicts Paul’s telling. From the get-go however, you’ve confidently divined Paul’s intentions as fact, only to have to later explain that it was a deduction you made based on the timing of the 27crags post, the 8a post, etc. Since you seem surprised by some negative reactions, this is where the perception of you bashing Paul comes from, accurate or inaccurate as it may be. By choosing to not believe Paul’s explanation of his intentions, you’re implicitly calling him a backslider.

    Many problems can be avoided by suspending judgment and extending the benefit of the doubt. Keep a safety on that pistol, Sheriff.

  5. B3

    06. Aug, 2010

    I call it like I see it. I am not surprised by anything on this site. This is one of the better comments however in a while. Thanks!

  6. Eliott

    10. Aug, 2010

    If I had a baboon with a gun I would RULE THE WORLD.

  7. Morgan

    16. Aug, 2010

    From what I understand Paul wasn’t re-naming it or even suggesting a new name, according to his blog:

    “1. i never renamed it bleagle. i merely called it bleagle because it was what i was calling it out of fun around the boulders BLackEAGLE its just a short way of saying it. as you can see I loaded it as black eagle and never once stated that i was going to rename it.”

  8. B3

    16. Aug, 2010

    Previously it was written on that Paul “is renaming it to Bleagle.” Those were the words that were used and what started this debate.
    This was changed a few days later.

  9. Adam M

    17. Aug, 2010

    That was a misunderstanding done by his girlfriend. Big oopsy. Was always a joke amongst us. All would have been well without that little post!

    Tidbit: The little poll on 8a about renaming sitstarts. There are countless examples of this. People were saying that Fred Nicole was being disrespected.

    FYI: Most of the Fred Nicole testpieces at Hueco are sitstarts to John Sherman Problems that Fred renamed and graded. Know who told me that? John Sherman, just the other night down here in SA, over a nice glass of 17 year old Scotch.
    Kinda funny eh? Well, I thought so anyway. John decided to go around and do STAND starts to Fred problems in the Rocklands and give them new names, just because. HA! I love rock climbing.

    I hope everyone reads this with a light tone. I’m discussing, not instigating.

  10. cardboard_dog

    24. Aug, 2010

    Adam, the other day I was on the North mtn stoned and drunk and I decided to do an alternate start to Proximity Infatuation. It starts on the mossy slab to the right of PI and climbs into the harder moves and tops out the same. I renamed it Toxicity Infatuation. Sorry man.


  11. Adam M

    25. Aug, 2010

    WWWWHHHAAATTT!!!!! This is an OUTRAGE! Since I live so far away you think you can just…RE-name stuff like that!

    How dare you. Since I can’t go to the boulder and erase the name written on it by you, and because I live so far away, I feel like I should now take out my anger on my students instead.

    This is very upsetting. Very very upsetting and disrupts my life entirely.

    You and me E? We’re done…

    😉 ADAM

  12. Atticus

    17. Oct, 2010

    So does this mean Fred Nicole can rename “Witness the Fitness” since holds broke and he climbed it . Silly stuff, I would show respect and simply call the problem by its proper name regardless if you are referring to it as a nickname or not. As a huge figure in the bouldering world, when you talk people listen. Black Lung becomes Blung. Lame

  13. Dbuzz

    21. Oct, 2010

    Ok this is another dicussion generator that the majority (50.1%) would agree is “d-bag” territory….

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