Mt. Evans

Posted on 21. Jul, 2010 by B3 in News

Saturday I reunited with an old friend Justin Jaeger (who has recently become a father) and we made an early start so he could scope out all the new blocs at Mt. Evans. We began the day on a very nice boulder up the hill from the main cluster. The psyche for Wolverine Land continues, although I have been busier lately with work and the guidebook. We warmed up on an excellent arete put up by Jon Glassberg called The Powder Keg V7.

We then tried the line to the left, A Bloody Lineage, put up by Ryan Silven. This is a great line. We figured out some new beta that worked really well and while Silven suggested V10, I think this will settle at V8 or V9.

In other news, Daniel added yet another V14 to the list of hard problems with his overhanging compression climb Death Trout. Here is a quick list of all the hard problems that have been climbed so far.

Death Trout V14 FA Daniel Woods
Evil Backwards V14 FA Daniel Woods
The Great War for Civilisation V13 FA Daniel Woods
Stuntin‘ Season V13 FA Daniel Woods
Bebe Wolverine V12 FA David Graham
Take it to the Grave V12 FA Jon Glassberg
Small Arms V11/12 FA Carlo Traversi
Cutlass V10 FA Jon Glassberg
Unshackled Sit V10 FA Jamie Emerson
Purple is not a Color V10 FA Brion Voges

All of these problems are great and there are certainly more to come. It is the warmest time of the year, and the mosquitos are out in full force. Typically by the time August rolls around, things begin to cool off. Great times are on their way!

17 Responses to “Mt. Evans”

Mark

21. Jul, 2010

All these problems have me super psyched to get back out to CO. I’m also really impressed with the reference of a great Fisk book. I immediately caught the reference when I first heard it, because I study the Middle East, Arabic, and Politics in college here at the UW. Very cool.
B3

21. Jul, 2010

Dave is reading that book right now, and I think the suggestion came from him,
christian

21. Jul, 2010

just to the state the obvious– how STRONG is daniel woods?!? i mean it seems like his pure strength is just unmatched out there right now. as he progresses and figures out how to climb technically more sound, the sky is the limit. if only we could combine dave’s technical prowess with daniel’s strength- that would be incredible to witness…..
B3

21. Jul, 2010

He is by far the strongest climber I have ever seen climb. Not the best technically, but certainly the most powerful.
cardboard_dog

21. Jul, 2010

pfft. I could kick his *&(
sock hands

21. Jul, 2010

also, major props to dave on sorting out sequences for the young padwan to send so quickly… dynamic duo of FA domination.

so many futuristic lines left!

wish there were more within god’s chosen range, but the strong kids need fodder too, i suppose.
cj

21. Jul, 2010

when you find these blocs are they relatively clean? The rock i have seen in pictures all look naturally lichen/moss free and its sick. JW, i have yet to climb the granite of the high mountatins.
sweaty

22. Jul, 2010

Congrats Sock Balls!!!
B3

23. Jul, 2010

It depends, some require cleaning others do not at all.
hayden

23. Jul, 2010

with one more v14 in this new area compared to the chicago lakes basin, i am wondering if the rock around lincoln seems different at all to you then the rest of evans or are these guys just very motivated right now?
StrongAsAReallyStrongGuy

23. Jul, 2010

When are we going to see some video of this place?
cardboard_dog

23. Jul, 2010

how is that beautiful arete to the left of a Bloody Lineage???
B3

24. Jul, 2010

Chad shot some video, Fryberger too. I don’t own a video camera, and can’t afford one, so photos are all I can do for now.
The rock is a little different. I think much better than A and B, but similar for sure. Perhaps there are just more boulders? I don’t know, but there are A LOT more hard problems coming. It’s really neat to see the place grow.
The arete to the left isnt really the line, although it looks amazing. Silven climbed the face around the corner at V5, and that problem looks amazing.
hayden

24. Jul, 2010

i look forward to seeing the place. after researching evans, it theoretically should be the same rock but all geologists, especially those who are climbers, know rock can vary place to place even when it is classified as the same.
B3

24. Jul, 2010

It is the same generally, although the difference is that where Silverback and Gorillas strike me as an erratics, this is all talus, so there seem to be less featureless sections.
slabd

25. Jul, 2010

how far is the hike to wolf land?
roofdyno

26. Jul, 2010

about 2000 miles for you, get walkin

ahahahhahahahahahahahaaa