Mt. Evans

Mt. Evans

Posted on 12. Jul, 2010 by in News

Although the weather threatened on Saturday, things held off and conditions were almost crisp. Being July 10th I don’t know of any place in the country that could say the same. Colorado summers have a way of energizing me. The long days in the mountains, the crazy weather, and the good times with friends seem to set life at a near perfect pace. The flowers on the mountainside are in bloom, the mountain goats are roaming the tundra…

IMG_6992 Mountains Goats with newborns near the summit.

and there are amazing new boulders to climb. My motivation is as strong as the long lasting light.

I had my sights set on climbing some new projects, and also repeating an area classic put up by Carlo Traversi called Small Arms. It’s hard not to notice the similarities between Small Arms and Clear Blue Skies, just on the other side of the mountain. For me, the flat landing, good rock and taller nature of Small Arms make it much better. It seems to be the hybrid of No More Greener Grasses and CBS. It’s a great problem and Carlo made a nice effort on the first ascent. There is a very minimal nature to the climbing, which greatly appeals to me. Start on a good, flat, obvious edge. Four small crimps up a flat wall, culminating in a committing move to a perfect sloping finish. It’s a problem I would be interested in climbing anywhere in the world.
Saturday was a good day. I tried the last move and did it quickly. After a quick rest, I climbed high, only to dab on the last move once, with my foot just nicking the pad. I didn’t fall and the pad took almost no weight. Regardless, I let go of the good finish hold, hoping to do it properly. It took a few more tries, but I climbed it in good style. While there is always some temptation to call it good, no matter how slight the dab, I feel guilt free about having climbed it cleanly.


IMG_6965Small Arms V11

Brian Capps, who was with me as well, made an ascent. After much debate, I think that this problem is probably solid V11 and a classic at that.
Afterwords, we cleaned and worked a project to the left. A very nice upwards rising line of flat edges. I think collectively we did all the moves and this one probably checks in at V11 or V12. We hiked out the 800ft of talus and tundra in a persistant rain, and when we got back to the car the temperature was 42 degrees F. Just another great day in the mountains.

Lincoln Lake at Mt. Evans lies at just over 11,600 and most of the bouldering is between 11,800 and 12,200ft, which also makes it one of the highest bouldering areas in the country.

15 Responses to “Mt. Evans”

  1. Chris

    12. Jul, 2010

    wow, looks brilliant! do you think it would be possible to link the problem from the far left jug on the right side of the arete?

  2. Christian

    12. Jul, 2010


    I’m assuming Linoln Lake won’t be covered in the guidebook. Obviously, RMNP and Area A will be in there. Just wondering what areas specifically will be covered in the book. Anything other than Evans and The Park?

    As a guidebook author myself, I know it can be a lot of work. Stick with it and make something you and the community will be proud of. It will be a super valuable resource to the climbing community in the long run. Unlike some of the other crap out there…..

  3. matt

    13. Jul, 2010


    it’s always very inspiring to read your posts. you seem to look at climbing in a much different light than the people who surround me. there are too many people where i climb that are looking to be noticed, and to receive some sort of assurance that they are special because they are strong. being surrounded by this mentality really wears on how i feel about the evolution of the sport. blogs like this one seem to break the cycle of energy such as that. it is good to see people enjoying the sport for things other than competition and want of admiration!

    often i experience a lack of motivation, and it is because where i live isn’t really conducive good climbing. to read about a place as beautiful as mt. evans really helps to revamp my outlook, and gets me psyched to go climb after working all day.

    keep up the good work!

  4. peter hill

    13. Jul, 2010

    So sick! Never bouldered in Colorado, but when I head out there the new Mt. Evans area will no doubt be visited….thanks for the pics

    A sidenote: Jamie, you have been in the ‘bouldering game’ for a while now man. You have played big role in the development of A LOT of bouldering here in the States. I haven’t done my research, but i bet overseas as well. Just a quick thanks for letting your constant psych shine and always being an honest ethical player in this freakin rad game..Im psyched knowing that i can still crush at 32….

  5. campusman

    13. Jul, 2010

    Thats so cool that you got new boulders like you wanted. I’m so psyched on the new area and cant wait to get some psych from all the strong people that climb there.
    We can all relate to wanting a clean ascent, keep it up!!
    More videos coming soon, they wont be on facebook anymore thankfully because as I found out facebook cuts off the videos midway and make you watch them over again (basically so they get more clicks)…Vimeo is what i’ll be using also, but have you seen the masterpiece v13 video??
    what Litz does to the boulder is unbelievable.
    Jason did a great # on the video too, wow!

  6. nik

    13. Jul, 2010

    All I have to say is “Beached as brew!” Thank you for blessing me with that video.

  7. campusman

    13. Jul, 2010

    any time Niko

  8. B3

    13. Jul, 2010

    @Chris that is probably a possibility.

  9. B3

    13. Jul, 2010

    @Christian It will cover Upper Chaos, Lower Chaos, Hallet, Emerald, Lonestar (stinkbug), Moraine Park, WIld Basin, Areas A and B, Laying in Wait. I think that’s all off the top of my head. I am working hard on the book all the time.

  10. B3

    13. Jul, 2010

    @ Peter Thank you! I haven’t done nearly the development I would have liked to but I try.

  11. B3

    13. Jul, 2010

    @nik glad you enjoyed it…

  12. derek

    13. Jul, 2010

    Go the Capps.

  13. peter beal

    13. Jul, 2010

    Jamie, I just got a comment on my blog about Mount Evans and was surprised to say the least. I wonder what your thoughts are. Isn’t this a wilderness area?

  14. B3

    13. Jul, 2010

    Jon should be much more aware of the public nature of his posts.

  15. Jon Glassberg

    14. Jul, 2010

    Inadvertently overstepped the boundaries when speaking about Lincoln Lake in a way that might have drawn unnecessary attention to a common practice at a new area. The blog has been edited and fixed. Not trying to step on any toes. Keep it PC.

    Jon G.

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