Mt. Evans

Mt. Evans

Posted on 05. Jul, 2010 by in News

For me, developing new and difficult problems on great rock has always been very motivating, and lately I have the chance to do so at Lincoln Lake, near Mt. Evans. The Mt. Evans Scenic Byway is typically open from Memorial Day to Labor Day, which means the boulders are accessible for three short months. It’s a great place to visit this time of year. The temperatures there have been pleasant, and it seems to hold much less heat than Areas A or B. Most of my attention will be devoted to this area until it closes. There is also the issue of the approach, which usually takes around 45 minutes. While I have been lucky with the weather so far, it will not be fun having to hike 800ft steeply up the mountain in the midst of hail, lightning and thunder, which always seems to threaten.
Thankfully, Saturday was a great day with no weather concerns, allowing us to focus on the multitude of great new problems and projects. It’s hard not to want to repeat some of the cool new lines that have gone in, but I kept my psyche for those at a relative minimum. Chad Greedy however, was psyched.
IMG_6430Chad attempts Bebe Wolverine V12, a Dave Graham first ascent.

We also tried a great slab project to no avail. This is a gorgeous problem on perfect rock. It seems a little wierd, and after a solid two hour session, I am not sure if I can climb it. Here Chad works the moves.
IMG_6433
Ryan Silven added stellar new problem on his first day, A Bloody Lineage V10. It climbs the crack in the middle of the boulder, just to the left of Chad (in black).
IMG_5806
Jon Glassberg also added a great V9 which I have no photos of, sadly.
Daniel Woods has also been busy at work, climbing Evil Backwords V14 and a great new arete problem that is V12 or V13.
IMG_6414Daniel’s new V12 or V13 Stuntin’ Season.
I went exploring in the Park today, always on the hunt for new and better rock, but found none. I will be returning back to Wolverine Land tomorrow!

11 Responses to “Mt. Evans”

  1. Mark

    05. Jul, 2010

    Man, this is getting me SUPER psyched. DUDE. So many sick things out there, and now, even more. Crazyyy. Looks like the guidebook might have to get put off a little while longer if new stuff keeps poppin up like this? Whats the news on that anyway?

  2. B3

    05. Jul, 2010

    The rangers asked that areas off the Mt. Evans Scenic Byway not be included, so this will not be in the new guide. I am very close to being finshed with the RMNP section, although I will awaiting essays from several climbers, and I need to do several edits. I have all week off, and I hope to really make some headway.

  3. Mark

    05. Jul, 2010

    Any chance that these things might get put up on Mountain Project then? I would understand not, because its somewhat akin to a guidebook, but its nice to have access to some semblance of direction to new things getting put up.

    Can’t get too greedy… you’re already doing a lot of work.

  4. B3

    05. Jul, 2010

    I don’t see a need for that right now. Let things play out a bit perhaps.

  5. Jweb

    06. Jul, 2010

    Man, that slab is really nice! Have you tried to dyno?

  6. B3

    06. Jul, 2010

    Voges did it today. It’s kind of a joke, because you have to lift your feet up over the rock. But the rock quality is so nice. he said he thought it was V10?

  7. CJS

    06. Jul, 2010

    Sounds like a pretty unique situation with so many super-strong climbers firing all these FAs one after the other. Strikes me like one of those famed Rocklands trips.

    What’s the vibe like out there? Is anyone filming and documenting? Who is driving the exploration? Is there any sense of competition, or is it all super-supportive?

  8. Nate

    06. Jul, 2010

    Are you aware of any potential access issues at Lincoln Lake? A burgeoning area like this seems like a great opportunity for the climbing community to step up and minimize impact proactively. It would be a shame if a handful of social trails sprouted up and angered the rangers. I was there yesterday and it seems like just a handful of cairns on the first quarter to half of the approach would go a long way. I’ll try to do my part on my next trip.

  9. Jimmy Webb

    06. Jul, 2010

    Oh, nice ! Yea man, super good quaLITY … That’s kinda how i thought it was gonna go down .. all dabby n shit… WELP, Have fun up there !!

  10. B3

    06. Jul, 2010

    There are no access concerns as far as i know. It’s public land and with all the talus it’s hard to have an impact. Lincoln lake has been visited for years by climbers and non-climbers alike. The rangers weren’t happy about the social trail that was constructed to Area A, which was built by climbers. I don’t know that they would approve of cairns.

  11. B3

    06. Jul, 2010

    The vibe is awesome. Chuck Fryberger filmed a few problems and Glassberg has been filming some too. In regards to who is driving the exploration, I would say Dave, Daniel, Kevin, Andy Man, Glassberg, myself, Jon Cardwell has been hiking around. It takes a lot of effort to clean new boulders but those that are committed are psyched. I think for the most part people have been supportive, especially Dave, who has found and cleaned more problems than anyone, and seems generally psyched when other people (like Daniel or Silven) climb lines that he found and cleaned.

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