Jade repeated

Posted on 28. May, 2010 by in News

Carlo Traversi has made the 6th ascent of Jade, in RMNP. Jade was the first problem given V15 in Colorado. It has been climbed by Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Tyler Landman, Nalle Hukkatival and Phil Schaal. This would make it the most repeated V15 in the world. There has been much speculation about the grade and it will be interesting to see what Carlo has to say. Most importantly, how hard should it be in the guidebook? Daniel? Paul? Haha!

Update: Carlo has logged it as V14, with the following comment:

The culmination of a tumultuous year as a 21 year old, filled with the highest of highs and the lowest of lows, I must say I am very grateful for the life that I am able to live. Life has never been better. As for the grade: I see this as the next level for me, so 8B+ seems appropriate. I normally avoid crimps like it’s my job, so how could I skip a grade in the style that I’m worst at? I certainly don’t believe that I am a V15 climber…

37 Responses to “Jade repeated”

  1. campusman

    28. May, 2010

    you cant laugh until you do it jamie

  2. campusman

    28. May, 2010

    v15 seems legit, think of all the beta there is now

    think of dave grahams attempts

    think of how fast carlo sent james litz’s 7 day project
    Freaks of the Industry
    A climb i swear james named after me

  3. Beaudering

    28. May, 2010

    I saw his car in the parking lot today, I had a feeling he would send, super dry today! GRATS CARLO!

  4. Pat

    28. May, 2010

    if 5 out of 6 say that a climb is V15… I would tend to think that it is in fact V15. I feel like Mr. Traversi may simply be underestimating his own abilities.

    Speaking of the guidebook, what is its ETA?

  5. Court

    28. May, 2010

    nice CARL!!!! good job :) i think you’re stronger than you think!

  6. matt

    28. May, 2010

    once again,

    maybe it’s not the place of climbers who haven’t sent the problem to speculate about its grade. while it is a hard problem that has been repeated frequently, the grade should be left up to those who have done it. for the guidebook, there are 5 who say 8C, and one who claims 8B+. 5 for 6. with this in mind, it might be misleading to record it in a guide as 8B+.

    the hype around this problem (for its grade) could cause a bias in grading it too. maybe, because a lot of attention has been given to the grade of this problem, those who do it will be disposed to grade it a certain way (mind over matter?). as the saying goes, “better to make theories to suit facts, rather than the other way around…”

    wolfgang gullich skipped a grade when he completed action directe. while bouldering and ropes are completely different, the concept is the same… it’s not like carlo traversi is a weak guy.

    at this point, more people need to try the problem to get some consensus.. jamie, youre a strong guy–why don’t you go give it a shot!

    pretty cool to hear of another hard send in the park! nice job carlo!

  7. B3

    28. May, 2010

    I am definitely interested, although I have been busy with work and the guidebook lately. I talked to Paul briefly last night and he seemed to think 8B+ was appropriate, and I am not sure that Phil was ever adamant that it was V15. It would awesome to hear from these guys.
    “maybe it’s not the place of climbers who haven’t sent the problem to speculate about its grade” But since I am writing the guidebook it is my place to speculate. Granted I have tried and will continue to talk to everyone about what they think.

  8. B3

    28. May, 2010

    Carlo is also the second person to have climbed the problem to skip V14.

  9. Chris

    28. May, 2010

    @ Matt: “wolfgang gullich skipped a grade when he completed action directe.”

    Just because I’ve lately read this several times on American blogs: Güllich did not skip a grade when he did AD. He climbed Wallstreet XI- (after filling a chipped hold) in 1987 and did Action Directe XI in 1991.

  10. Jesse

    28. May, 2010

    Maybe Carlo is just way stronger than he realizes.

    In the guidebook you could have a little blurb about the problem which outlines its history and lists all the senders and their proposed grades. The problem could be given a V15* with the * referring to a possible downgrade. With more and more sends the grade will probably be easier to determine. Until there is a large enough pool of proposed grades why not leave it a bit ambiguous.

    Of course if a ton of people send it, it probably won’t stay a V15.

  11. big poppa chossflail

    28. May, 2010

    treat the guidebook like hatespray.spew… description:

    v15…. but

    soft

    “PISSSSSS EASY FOR V15! YOU COLORADO KIDS NEED TO STOP ADDING FOUR GRADES TO EVERY PROBLEM ABOVE 10,000FT IN ALTITUDE!”

  12. peter beal

    28. May, 2010

    Carlo is very strong and I think his view on the grade is valuable, in fact I believe it will become consensus. Imagine if Jade was located at 6000 feet, and a short walk from the car, like, for instance, Echale in Clear Ceek. It will be interesting to see what happens with the Game

    BTW, Echale has seen at this point approximately the same number of repeats as Jade. And if there are questions about Echale (glue, chipping,etc.) it’s the same # of ascents for Midnight Express, a very high quality line.

  13. hdf

    28. May, 2010

    v14/15. seems appropriate

  14. campusman

    28. May, 2010

    v14/15 is not a grade

    we need more cowbell

    Jamie go project it…use good padding

  15. DW

    28. May, 2010

    About the grade of Jade. I put it up in 2007 and compared to everything else in the park, it was the hardest boulder for me. It is hard to compare this to the likes of Nothin but Sunshine and Freaks of the Industry since those are more “power” resistant climbs with no real stopper moves. Jade is essentially a 1 move boulder. I compared it to Terre de Sienne since this was the only “1” move wonder I could think of. When I did Terre de Sienne, it took me 8 tries in 1 day. This was considered v14 at the time and still shows since it has only seen ascents from myself, Paul, Fred, and Dave all of which have climbed numerous v14 and 15 grades. I could not fatham completing v14 in a day, so I questioned the grade but then discovered the fact that it was completely my style. Esperanza on the other hand took me soooo much longer to do because of its physical nature. Terre de Sienne just needed the right conditions and finger strength to do a move. Esperanza required full body power and finger strength. This is similar to Jade. If you gather enough psyche then have conditions and finger power to do “the move” you will send. In my opinion this move is way harder than the move on terre de sienne. It is also different though since on Jade you go left and Terre de Sienne you go straight up. I am looking forward to trying Jade again this summer and seeing what it feels like. I feel stronger since 3 years ago so hopefully it does not feel as hard as back then, or my training is failing. Carlo is on a roll now having tackled circadian rhythym, suspension, and jade all of which are CO testpieces. He is very fit and is taking advantage of his fitness. If he thinks Jade felt like v14 to him then that is cool. I will not downgrade it because of the number of ascents it has seen. Every climber who has sent Jade is no stranger to sending. They all have proved themselves and are capable of sending hard lines. I think there are at least 20 v15s in the world in which most have been repeated. Most of these v15s will see multiple repeats. This is why v16 will be the next level. Before v15 was established, there were numerous v14s around the world, now v14 has been flashed and a few have been done within a session. This is logical progression of the Sport. Stronger people and past grades getting done more frequently awaiting the next level grade. The same shit is happening in the Sport rhelm and the sport rhelm is progressing. Kinematix is one of the most repeated 14ds in the world along with Action Directe, but they have not been downgraded. The subject of downgrading these climbs has been brought up, but nothing has been done and nothing should be done. Eventually, these routes will be warm ups to some people beause those people will be climbing 9c+. Stronger people are entering the climbing world which means more ascents for large number climbs. I think its badass that Carlo sent Jade, he deserves it due to the amount of time and effort he has put into climbing and setting. Congrats man now fucking take it to the next level! Proj to the left of Jade awaits. I think it is cool that he told his personal opinion on the grade but at the same time he is fucking strong right now. Same goes with Paul, Ty, Nalle, and Phil. They all are strong as shit and are more than capable in taking bouldering to the next level. This is just my opinion on it. I am looking forward to trying it again this summer. RMNP season is just weeks away. Bumbaclot!

    DW

  16. B3

    28. May, 2010

    Daniel thanks for the comment!!! awesome! We wouldn’t be discussing this if you hadn’t have had the vision and ability to go do that thing first!

  17. B3

    28. May, 2010

    Once again, the real contribution by Daniel is that he climbed one of the hardest and coolest lines in the Park first, regardless of the grade.

  18. big poppa chossflail

    29. May, 2010

    best wishez on dw projects in the park this year… far left of jade… right of veritas…..

    what about that poudre roof of doom this fall?

    the line right of kahuna roof at carter lake to finally silence all the oldsters when visiting the parents?

  19. Marc Germani

    29. May, 2010

    really nice site, i like it.

    the comments are also respectable unlike other amateur sites

    and yea, congratulations Carlo for the ascent, and good luck for you and Daniel for all projects

  20. Doug Lipinski

    29. May, 2010

    Whatever the grade is, props to Carlo for the GREAT send! Also to Daniel for the FA a few years ago.

    One more thing, I’m certainly on the outside looking when it comes to hard bouldering circles, but I have no idea why Daniel seems to have taken to signing his posts “bumbaclot” recently. I’d love to hear that there’s a simple explanation for this. If not, the guys is a beast climber, but loses some of my respect as a person for this.
    http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=bumbaclot

  21. AKbouldering

    29. May, 2010

    I’m pretty sure he’s using “bumbaclot” in a “fuck yeah” sort of way… Its a shame to lose respect for someone over something so petty…

  22. bob beacon

    29. May, 2010

    I am pretty sure tyler did it before paul

  23. Daniel

    29. May, 2010

    By the way, what is Ty doing? Climbing under the radar or has he stopped completely?

  24. bumalot

    29. May, 2010

    you dont say, uhh dont you even think about talking to my little brother that way okay. my lifes that way, we climb like girls and the rags just keep gettin full of blood, you wouldnt even know, the way to go to Grand Ledge, this place is in season, you actin like he commited treason. we take your attitude and put it in the garbage like the kids in the pale, relax about the hale, campusman is the destroya, he aint gonna deploya, what he’ll do is make ya look like all you climbed is a decoya….
    -BUMALOT

  25. sidepull

    29. May, 2010

    @Doug – he also thinks there’s something called a “rhelm” – don’t judge him on his verbal skills.

  26. cj

    29. May, 2010

    Jamie, you know that you should place it at v14. 6 people have climbed it, two skipping v14……and who knows how many more will complete it by the end of the season. Even though it would be awesome to see a v15 in a guidebook, it just isn’t meant to be

  27. Doug Lipinski

    29. May, 2010

    Maybe “loses some respect” is the wrong way to put it. It just seems like an unnecessarily vulgar an immature way to sign off.

    From a purely selfish standpoint, since I’ll never climb near that level, I love to read about others’ exploits. For this reason, if DW became a better writer and more frequent blogger I’d love it. His sponsors probably would too. Just sayin’.

  28. campusman

    29. May, 2010

    if ddubz spent as much time chattin online as he does on the rock ya’ll wouldnt even be able to talk, now ddubs can walk the walk, ill talk the talk, what do you think ide rather do? sit here and boo, you actin a foo, walk the walk, forget about talk the talk, like jamie emerson i go through a whole bag of chalk… in one session, get me out of this depression, ill crush your skills in grand ledge just to pay my bills, just like I did catchin them gills as i sat back with chills…
    in the ice, The Game aint about bein gneiss, forget your junk, the kid is a hunk, he’ll spray you like a skunk with out even sayin a word, cuz yall aint even heard

    for rillz!!!!111111

  29. campusmang

    29. May, 2010

    nice write up Ddubs, i finally read most of it

    dont do anything differently, but you should climb here

    for real

  30. !!0_0!!

    30. May, 2010

  31. campusmang

    31. May, 2010

    sorry fellas, i’m good now

    I was born with a colon issue that I didnt know was so serious till today…i’m going to have to eat super healthy for the rest of my life. oh darn, no more taco bell =P my mind is going to have to be in control too, i know, sucks right lol

    Jamie, this is what the brown spot in my blue eye is about…
    Colon business

  32. […] Traversi gelingt die Wiederholung von “Jade (8B+)“ (siehe auch Kommentar von Daniel Woods “DW” unter dem Artikel), was andere eher als […]

  33. Nietzsche

    01. Jun, 2010

    Jon Cardwell, Matt Wilder, and I believe Enzo Oddo have also done Tierre de Sienne.

  34. […] kletterszene.com / Quelle: B3B / Foto: Screenshot aus dem Video […]

  35. Ryan J

    02. Jun, 2010

    enzo oddo? really? that seems like quite a stretch…

  36. Ellis

    02. Jun, 2010

    Enzo did Terre de Sienne? I’m suprised there hasn’t been more (any?) press about it. Extremely impressive if he in fact did climb it.

  37. Mathieu

    03. Jun, 2010

    I don’t think Oddo sent Terre de Sienne.

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