News

News

Posted on 10. May, 2010 by in News

This weekend Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges both made quick ascents of Circadian Rhythm V13 in the Poudre Canyon. They also repeated Chris Schulte’s B3 problem What’s Left of the Bottom of My Heart, which was suggested to be V13, or potentially V14. Webb and Voges both suggested V12. Also in the Poudre Canyon, Carlo Traversi did the “Nerf Jug” project, grading it V12, which was subsequently downgraded by third ascentionist Nic Oklobzija, after he figured out a better sequence, to V10.
Interesting. Dave Graham did the first ascent of Circadian Rhythm in 2001.
There are some great projects (here and here) to climb in Colorado, and of course there is always The Game V16 in Boulder Canyon. Let’s have it boys!
I didn’t climb too much, but I did compete at the Denver Boulder Club Organic Comp on Sat. There was a good vibe, and Daniel Woods and Angie Payne convincingly won their respective catagories. And I scooped up some new Organic threads.

10 Responses to “News”

  1. campusman

    10. May, 2010

    is there is a list of the complete results anywhere?

  2. seth

    11. May, 2010

    Damn Solid weekend for Brian and Jimmy, nice work. V12 for ‘What’s Left’….. sheesh.. i remember brushing that w/Blake and us both thinking “looks like V8″… then i tried pulling on.

  3. Beaudering

    11. May, 2010

    Good job guys, nice work on the nerf jug! gonna have to get some beta from you guys and go try it out!

  4. jalopy

    12. May, 2010

    shulte called whats left v12/13 originally, others suggested much harder. the crux is a span move, and both are lots taller than shulte. nice stab though.

  5. B3

    12. May, 2010

    If I recall Chris had it on his card as hard V13, with a comment of “V14?”

  6. Chris Schulte

    13. May, 2010

    I thought it was very hard; the crux for me is a span near to my “max effective reach”; I’m not surprised those two thought v12, sounds good to me! Any one else done it?

  7. big poppa chossflail

    15. May, 2010

    austin geiman just sent the horseshoe stratler project at ute pass or whatever it used to be refered to as…

    it’s one of those lines that looks very easy and is very very not so.

  8. Chris Schulte

    20. May, 2010

    So, I’ve had some Q’s RE my last post, so for an A, I’ll clarify MY opinion:
    I think, for me, it is v13. It’s not a battle, both those guys have a good bit of of reach on me. Herm and Blake did the move I found hardest before doing any of the other moves.. Also big guys.
    I am impressed/pleased that both these guys can give an opinion on grades that reflects their actual feelings, rather than the whole thing stinking of the ol’ “let’s go west/east/north/south and downgrade stuff” routine.
    Hopefully we all know that once one gets into the “harder grades” of bouldering, one gets into the morphology of the individual often as a primary variable in the grade equation. Some area guidebooks even make note of these differences from line to line. Currently I have a project that, when I hit a left hand sloping edge, my left shoulder actually comes out a little (hurt me pretty bad last fall!); so much has to be done to gain the hold at a point past max reach: speed, trajectory, and gentleness to grip this hold. However, someone with a bigger reach will find this move easier! Like being tall enough to heel hook through the crux on the Spectre… Anyhow. The milkman arete project looks cool.

  9. B3

    20. May, 2010

    @Chris Have you tried Circadian Rhythm? Most would consider that the benchmark for V13 in the Poudre, then having repeated that, you could compare it to your new problem.

  10. chris Schulte

    21. May, 2010

    Indeed, a standard for granite IMH(and not Fully experienced in this case)O, tho according to “consensus”, the Only v13 in the Poudre, right?… I did try it with Gomez a few years back, and managed to get through it in 2 overlapping parts .. Kinda lost interest at the time with the back dab, long drive, ect.. Though it is absolutely on my list for one of these days, really pretty.. Hate that back tap on the sharp edge tho.. I’d prefer if the crux (for me) wasn’t hitting another rock with my spine! 😀
    Honestly, though, I’ve done a few v13s; I kinda feel like I have a bit of a grasp for what one should feel like; the Poudre isn’t THAT different from other areas!
    What an odd boulder… When Nuthin But Sunshine was done, Dave gave it v14.. Now it’s RMNP standard v13. He said at the time that Circadian was a whole new level above NBS, but it is also v13 now… Man, grading is TUFF.
    I couldn’t really compare Circadian to What’s Left, tho, the styles/angles/holds are rather different, and (again, for me) the style of climbing is everything. Some things I find easy, some hard.. When you think about/compare problems, as ya gotta do when trying to grade, so many factors come into play, as you know.. When a number of things in a certain style take say, 10 tries and feel X hard, you can compare… For you and I, a good example would be Authentic Battle Damage.. It took 2 visits for me to clean, figure out, and do, though the Gecko stand start (in Font) I did 2nd try after falling off the last move on the flash attempt.. ABD felt harder (tho it may have been the damp; I was brushing spring snow the day I did it).. Factors, factors.. Semi-educated guesses..I must say, I prefer the wider band of european grades; often the v-scale seems too precise to be practical.
    I love hearing things like “v12b” though!
    I have been guilty of such utterances, myself…
    A zen master once said “Comparisons are odious”
    I kinda feel like grading can more often be about competition than judging progression, though..
    And we can’t deny the differences from climber to climber. Both who have repeated What’s Left are STRONG, and tall! I’m not trying to take anything away from their accomplishments AT ALL, and I’m pleased they didn’t take something that wasn’t theirs, so to speak..
    Diff’rent strokes for diff’rent folks!

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