The Hardest Move

Posted on 06. May, 2010 by in News

I have been thinking lately, and a question that continues to come to mind is, what is the hardest move on rock? This began as a discussion about dynos, and I could only think of one dyno that was even V11 or harder in America. It seems like there should be one and I assume that I just missing it somehow. I don’t consider myself a good jumper, but I can’t recall failing after some work, on a dyno, and it seems like there should be something to test myself at the next level. The hardest one or two move dyno problems I can think of are Eckagrata V10, in Hueco Tanks, Cage Free V10, in Boulder Canyon, The Cotton Pony V10, in Leavenworth, Washington. Perhaps Chris Lindners Belly Flop V12? problem at Black Mountain is the hardest dyno? Granted the nature of executing one single move after hundreds of attempts can make the move feel easy when finally achieved and this adds to the challenge of suggesting an accurate level of difficulty.
And this leads into my second point. Are moves actually getting harder or are climbers just able to stack more “almost hard” moves on top of one another. It seems like the hardest moves in the US are currently: The crux move on Lucid Dreaming, the crux move on Jade. Most of the other hardest problems are longer and seem to have multiple V11 or so moves with little rest in between. Although not in the US, I will again mention The Singularity V14 in Squamish. Although this is “only” given V14, it is standing out as a testpiece. I am not familiar enough with the moves to comment if there is one incredibly hard move, but this is starting to stand the test of time. I think a lot of high end climbers would say the hardest move they’ve done is in the gym, which could be a growing trend. For now I will defer to Udini’s amazing list

34 Responses to “The Hardest Move”

  1. Paul

    06. May, 2010

    The Flying Dutchman v12, is another very hard dyno.

  2. B3

    06. May, 2010

    Cool, thanks Paul.

  3. Gabe Doliner

    06. May, 2010

    hard dyno problems – Flyin’ High V11? at LRC, Chattanooga, and the new thing Jimmy opened to the left, “Watch Your Back”. Watch Your Back in the video below.

    These are hard!

  4. wyclimber

    06. May, 2010

    What about Zion V16/8 the dyno in CO. It was originally hard and now apparantly is not so hard. Also it is not singular in that there is a shortcut that eliminates the need to dyno.

  5. Nathan Bishop

    07. May, 2010

    Lucid Dreaming was done alone , with no witnesses

  6. Will

    07. May, 2010

    Is this true? Was Rasta Sit done alone?

  7. Justin

    07. May, 2010

    I believe ‘Walk Away’ by John Gaskins is said to have a one move v13 crux. The sit to the problem adds two moves and makes it v15. It is also a vertical problem.

  8. sammy d.

    07. May, 2010

    Singularity has a few really hard problems. I saw tim d. walk the first one or two and still not do the next. I still feel like the stupid move on back out is one of the hardest moves to stick.

  9. campusman

    07. May, 2010

    i wanna know where the worst sloper is

    A while back this strong Canadian said the egg in Squamish has such bad slopers that all slopers are huge after you can send.

    the smallest fred nicole crimper I have ever grabbed is on Max Scene Arete in GL.

  10. Mat

    07. May, 2010

    If I remember right there is a wild dyno in India that can be seen in “Pilgrimage” with Chris Sharma and Nate Gold.

  11. Nathan

    07. May, 2010

    What do they call the individual crux moves on: Jade, Terremer, Lucid Dreaming… V?

    I heard Lucid discribed as (3) V11/12 moves into the existing V12 stand start.

  12. david

    07. May, 2010

    Walk away is a one move problem and was given V13 when John did it, however he used a ridiculously hard sequence. A slightly easier way has been found by subsequent repeaters but it is still considered a one move V12. The sit start is still unrepeated!

  13. Jeremy

    07. May, 2010

    I had heard Sharma repeated Belly Flop with ease and barely had to hold the swing. But I could be wrong.

    I’m pretty sure Lucid Dreaming was captured on video. Or at least a set of pics. But could be wrong on that one too :)

  14. d

    07. May, 2010

    Don’t be so modest Jaime – we all know Big Bang is the hardest dyno in north america!

  15. Sky Weekes

    07. May, 2010

    I think that when it comes to Dyno’s in particular it matters on a bunch of factors. The majority of the dyno’s listed here are hard because of the holds (or lack there of). It’s very hard to grade them. I’ve jumped 9ft 3 inches in between jugs before but can’t even touch cage free which is considerably less than that. Many big dyno proj’s are about to go down this summer in Colorado so maybe we will see a change!

    It’s also very dependent on the climber. Zion was very hard for me because I was unable to use the high feet everybody else can. This made me have to jump quite a bit further.

  16. Joe

    07. May, 2010


    From Paul’s blog:

    “The footage of “lucid dreams” will be premiered in this years fifth annual reel rock film tour.”

    I had assumed this meant there were people there to film. Did he film it himself?

  17. campusmang

    07. May, 2010

    skyler, u can do cage free

  18. Dan

    07. May, 2010

    What about Zangrel’s Memento dyno? Isn’t that supposed to be one of the toughest?

  19. Nicholas

    07. May, 2010


    I’m stOked to see a climber of your caliber and visibility mention Leavenworth’s Cotton Pony and more significantly Singularity up at Squamish… I’d love to see someone (i.e. Paul, Daniel, Nalle, Adam, etc) nab that one!

  20. John

    07. May, 2010

    I think the hardest is yet to come… or will it ever? There will always be someone, somewhere, that says something is harder then the current status quo. With the continued development of new areas, climbers starting at the age of two, and advancements in genetic technologies, in 10yrs kids will look back on us and laugh at the standards we have.

  21. JamesO

    07. May, 2010

    The move on Jade and the move on Terre De Sienne have been done by about the same number of climbers.

  22. Brian A

    07. May, 2010

    I second “Flying High” in LRC. For me it felt considerably harder than cage free. then again i am 5’8” but i would still imagine it to be harder regardless of height. also, flying high has never been flashed to my knowledge.

  23. B3

    07. May, 2010

    thanks for the input, I forgot about flying high and hadn’t seen that thing in Idaho, strangely. I thought the Cotton Pony was a really nice problem!

  24. B3

    07. May, 2010

    but I didn’t try it.

  25. Nietzsche

    08. May, 2010

    While certainly not that hard of a move Jacques Cousteau ranks alongside the 1-2 move dyno’s like Eckagrata and Cage Free.

  26. campusman

    08. May, 2010

    John, harder moves Are yet to come

    the hardest move has been climbed.

  27. James

    08. May, 2010

    Walk away sit, il pirata and shadowplay all possibly have a single 8b move. Voilent new breed whilst graded 9a+ is believed to contain an 8c boulder problem crux. Not sure any other route contains such a crux. Great to see Tim Clifford(quiet yorkshireman and sandbagger) managing to climb such an oustanding line. Have many attempted to repeat it?

  28. Blake B.

    08. May, 2010

    I have pulled up on the start holds of Terre De Sienne, and I will say that anyone who sticks that that lock off move to the crimp gets mad props from me, because that move is really really hard. But that’s not saying much coming from me hahaha

  29. Pete

    09. May, 2010

    as far as dynos go, how about the GIANT sideways dyno on Mescalito?

  30. campusman

    09. May, 2010

    must see videos of JE crushing hard

    gl video in the making

  31. campusman

    09. May, 2010

    downclimbed ragged edge today

    2nd descent

  32. ABC

    10. May, 2010

    Interestingly, Dave McLeod makes mention of Violent New Breed in his last blog post. He seems to say that it looks pretty hard (not that he is one of those ridiculously strong new generation wunderkids, but I’d guess he knows what he’s talking about..). I’d be curious to see some of those Gaskins problems get some serious attention by those casual crushers crushing v16s. Time for a team America visit to England v2?

  33. Adam

    13. May, 2010

    Who the f#*k is Nathan Bishop and why does he think he knows what he’s talking about?

  34. mark

    30. Jul, 2010

    i think the talk and grade hype of zion is funny.v8 seems to be the grade but skyler keeps saying he used differant foot holds.well thats the way it is.if its easier that way why did he not use them.btw can he do real hard dynos that require finger strength or very technical dynos.

Leave a Reply