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Vail

Posted on 31. May, 2010 by B3.

I arrived in Vail last night to set the third bouldering World Cup in Vail, CO. The head setter is Manu Hassler, who has worked under Jackie Godoff, the legendary French coursesetter. Manu is from Biel, Switzerland. Chris Danielson is the American Head Setter and working under him will be myself, Scott Mechler (who was [...]

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Jade repeated

Posted on 28. May, 2010 by B3.

Carlo Traversi has made the 6th ascent of Jade, in RMNP. Jade was the first problem given V15 in Colorado. It has been climbed by Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Tyler Landman, Nalle Hukkatival and Phil Schaal. This would make it the most repeated V15 in the world. There has been much speculation about the grade [...]

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Flatiron Climbing Council

Posted on 27. May, 2010 by B3.

Tuesday I was called upon to meet with some heads for the Flatiron Climbing Council, a volunteer organization. Their goal is to build a stewardship and education program targeting the community at large and initially bouldering areas. “In an effort to educate local climbers of the impacts of their land usage and the consequences of [...]

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Mongolian Cosmonaut

Posted on 21. May, 2010 by B3.

For the aspiring Boulder climber, Flagstaff Mountain provides a plethora of marginally classic testpieces, just 10 minutes or so from downtown. One of the most famous is the steep bulge of Mongolian Cosmonaut. Located just across the street from the infamous Monkey Traverse, this low, pebbly bulge sees more attention than it probably deserves. Clearly [...]

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Battle in the Bubble, a review

Posted on 17. May, 2010 by B3.

This weekend I attended the Battle of the Bubble in Boulder, CO and for the first time in a while I was totally on the outside. It was great to see another group put together an event and I would like to give my professional opinion on the event, mostly from a route setting standpoint [...]

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The Insiders

Posted on 14. May, 2010 by B3.

The poor weather continues here in Boulder, although today could be okay? Anyways, this weekend is the Battle in the Bubble “With unprecedented media coverage, The Battle in the Bubble is the new model for high-end competition climbing raising the bar to be the highest profile, most watched, American climbing event to date…” and coming [...]

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Story of Two Worlds

Posted on 13. May, 2010 by B3.

Dai Koyamada has made the second ascent of Dave Graham’s The Story of Two Worlds in Cresciano, CH. Dave graded it V15, but Dai has suggested it is in the V16 range. Well done. The Low Down

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Happy 5.10 Day

Posted on 10. May, 2010 by B3.

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News

Posted on 10. May, 2010 by B3.

This weekend Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges both made quick ascents of Circadian Rhythm V13 in the Poudre Canyon. They also repeated Chris Schulte’s B3 problem What’s Left of the Bottom of My Heart, which was suggested to be V13, or potentially V14. Webb and Voges both suggested V12. Also in the Poudre Canyon, Carlo [...]

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The Hardest Move

Posted on 06. May, 2010 by B3.

I have been thinking lately, and a question that continues to come to mind is, what is the hardest move on rock? This began as a discussion about dynos, and I could only think of one dyno that was even V11 or harder in America. It seems like there should be one and I assume [...]

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