Comments on: Guidebook Grades

By: Dylan

Dylan — Thu, 29 Jul 2010 23:17:17 +0000

It seems to be that an important question for those who sent Jade but had never previously climbed V15 is how many climbs rated V14 had they tried prior to sending Jade and how long did they put into them compared to the time they spent working Jade. If it turns out that they put significantly more time into Jade than they did into any or at least most V14′s that shut them down then the V15 grade may stand (though it may be soft). @john_mcbride I can totally understand your logic. My progression has been linear on boulders so far but for example I sent my first 5.11a when my hardest send prior to that was 5.10b/c. Not that the difficulty is remotely close to the same order of magnitude as that we are discussing, but it seems that people skipping grades in the progression of their climbing is not uncommon, particularly if they find something that fits their style.

By: john_mcbride

john_mcbride — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 01:16:33 +0000

I did my first V5 before i got a V4, this carried on two years later when I sent evilution (to the lip) before a V9, the difference being I was FAR MORE MOTIVATED to get it and lots of training, I think this is along the lines with Carlo’s recent ascent.

By: distance, hearts, and fondness « It Came from the Garage

distance, hearts, and fondness « It Came from the Garage — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 00:40:23 +0000

[...] Jamie Emerson is working on a topo for RMNP where Jade is located giving him a delicate issue, that in a way also describes grading theory, and the problem for 8a once producing news. [...]

By: B3

B3 — Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:47:22 +0000

Because several climbers, including Scott Schorr and Carlo Traversi have fallen on the V10 section. If those two did the climb then three people who had never climbed V14 did a V15, and I think this could be reason to give it the downgrade. Also, I don’t think Ty ever really thought it was a proper V15. Sam you should come and do it!

By: sammy d

sammy d — Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:40:22 +0000

Why down grade jade if no one who has done it has even mentioned it?

By: Beaudering

Beaudering — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 02:04:43 +0000

when can we expect this guidebook to be published and for sale? My bad if this has already been asked and answered I don’t feel like looking through 50 some ought responses.

By: wade

wade — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:14:38 +0000

Down rate them all except clear blue skies, and jade. Jade I don’t think has seen a official down grade yet, so it might be best to keep it at v15 for now.

By: Cardboard_dog

Cardboard_dog — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 19:40:17 +0000

Bierstadt was my first V10. I will cry when it gets the downgrade. Although I have seen video of people skipping several moves. Sunspot?? I have not done yet but when I come to CO this summer i will FLASH. THAT. SHIT.

By: Hameltoe

Hameltoe — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 22:11:42 +0000

Why not have slash grades, or even better, window grades? We all know large monkey moves are harder for midgets and, conversely, scrunchy micro crimp problems are wicked difficult for people over a certain height/weight. Since boulder problems are so subjective to body types, why not reflect that in the grades? I’m not saying that you would have to do this for every problem, but the ones that clearly lend themselves to certain body types would be perfect candidates. Sure, some people will abuse this system by taking only the higher grades, but who cares, it’s only 8a.nu, right? Just because people would do this wouldn’t make you dishonest or a contributor to grade inflation by suggesting a range of difficulty for a problem. I’m all about a nice solid grade, but I’m also aware that a soft V8 for someones else is my hard V9 (probably due to my addiction to donuts, Nutella, and cheese).

As for your boulder problems, sorry I’ve never climbed them. If I were to do it, I would average the results and round up for anything ~.7 and up. This should get you close. Good luck!

By: Scott H

Scott H — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 17:53:47 +0000

Hey Jamie,

It’s been a while since I’ve contributed anything to the internet, but here is my 2 cents from using many guidebooks over the years. With whatever you choose as the grades to be – BE CONSISTANT!!! If you drop one problem down thats borderline make sure to drop the next problem down thats borderline. That way when people are actually using the guidebook, they have an idea of what they are getting on. If there is consistancy then people can “take” the grade they feel is appropriate. Even if it doesn’t exactly match what is in the guidebook.

I am not opposed to slash grades. I have used them and definitely feel they are more appropriate on problems that haven’t seen a lot of ascents. To me it signifies that the grade is still open to discussion or that the grade is debateable. Also from my experience with guidebooks things that had slash grades ten years ago, the majority of them have now received the lower grade – unless something significant has broken.

here is my third and maybe forth penny on things I’ve either tried or sent

The Park
The Kind Traverse (not commenting cause I don’t remember how it felt to me)
Sunspot V11
if Riddles in the Dark is = V10 (I did’t feel park is 2 grades harder unless something broke since I last tried it)
then Riddles in the Park = V11
(Riddles crux heal hook move is similar to formula 50′s {I suck at both}) for me dark = V11 park = V12

Mt. Evans

Clear Blue Skies V12
Mental Pollution V10 masturbation V11 (similar reasoning as Riddles)
Public Execution V9

In the end the guidebook doesn’t have the final ruling, just the authors opinion, but now it’s officially on paper, as opposed to the internet. People relatively know how hard it was for them. I dont’ think anyones ego would be overinflated if they called any of the problems you mentioned by the higher grade. In the end – it is always relative. Have fun and good luck. I look forward to owning the final product.

Scott