Guidebook Grades

Guidebook Grades

Posted on 11. Mar, 2010 by in News

Over the past several weeks I have been working on the guidebook. Many of the descriptions have been written and it is starting to come together. It’s my hope that the community will be behind what I produce and I feel there is no better way to do that then to involve all of you. There are several problems which come into question and I hope this blog serves as a good place to discuss the grades of several problems in question. I have talked to many climbers already but the more I can involve the better. Already it’s obvious that some people are not going to see the grades they would like to see, and others will be very excited. If you’ve climbed any of these problems please feel free to comment on their grade! Thanks for the input. There will be no slash grades in the guidebook so keep that in mind.

The Park
The Kind Traverse V10 or V11
Sunspot V10 or V11
Riddles in the Park V11 or V12
Wildcat V11 or V12
Jade V14 or V15

Mt. Evans
Silverback V8 or V9 or V10 or V11
Clear Blue Skies V11 or V12
Mental Pollution V10 or V11
Public Execution V9 or V10
Ode to the Modern Man V13 or V14

59 Responses to “Guidebook Grades”

  1. Hameltoe

    13. Mar, 2010

    Why not have slash grades, or even better, window grades? We all know large monkey moves are harder for midgets and, conversely, scrunchy micro crimp problems are wicked difficult for people over a certain height/weight. Since boulder problems are so subjective to body types, why not reflect that in the grades? I’m not saying that you would have to do this for every problem, but the ones that clearly lend themselves to certain body types would be perfect candidates. Sure, some people will abuse this system by taking only the higher grades, but who cares, it’s only 8a.nu, right? Just because people would do this wouldn’t make you dishonest or a contributor to grade inflation by suggesting a range of difficulty for a problem. I’m all about a nice solid grade, but I’m also aware that a soft V8 for someones else is my hard V9 (probably due to my addiction to donuts, Nutella, and cheese).

    As for your boulder problems, sorry I’ve never climbed them. If I were to do it, I would average the results and round up for anything ~.7 and up. This should get you close. Good luck!

  2. Cardboard_dog

    14. Mar, 2010

    Bierstadt was my first V10. I will cry when it gets the downgrade. Although I have seen video of people skipping several moves. Sunspot?? I have not done yet but when I come to CO this summer i will FLASH. THAT. SHIT.

  3. wade

    14. Mar, 2010

    Down rate them all except clear blue skies, and jade. Jade I don’t think has seen a official down grade yet, so it might be best to keep it at v15 for now.

  4. Beaudering

    21. Mar, 2010

    when can we expect this guidebook to be published and for sale? My bad if this has already been asked and answered I don’t feel like looking through 50 some ought responses.

  5. sammy d

    15. Apr, 2010

    Why down grade jade if no one who has done it has even mentioned it?

  6. B3

    15. Apr, 2010

    Because several climbers, including Scott Schorr and Carlo Traversi have fallen on the V10 section. If those two did the climb then three people who had never climbed V14 did a V15, and I think this could be reason to give it the downgrade. Also, I don’t think Ty ever really thought it was a proper V15. Sam you should come and do it!

  7. […] Jamie Emerson is working on a topo for RMNP where Jade is located giving him a delicate issue, that in a way also describes grading theory, and the problem for 8a once producing news. […]

  8. john_mcbride

    02. Jun, 2010

    I did my first V5 before i got a V4, this carried on two years later when I sent evilution (to the lip) before a V9, the difference being I was FAR MORE MOTIVATED to get it and lots of training, I think this is along the lines with Carlo’s recent ascent.

  9. Dylan

    29. Jul, 2010

    It seems to be that an important question for those who sent Jade but had never previously climbed V15 is how many climbs rated V14 had they tried prior to sending Jade and how long did they put into them compared to the time they spent working Jade. If it turns out that they put significantly more time into Jade than they did into any or at least most V14’s that shut them down then the V15 grade may stand (though it may be soft). @john_mcbride I can totally understand your logic. My progression has been linear on boulders so far but for example I sent my first 5.11a when my hardest send prior to that was 5.10b/c. Not that the difficulty is remotely close to the same order of magnitude as that we are discussing, but it seems that people skipping grades in the progression of their climbing is not uncommon, particularly if they find something that fits their style.

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